Breaking in my new 318. Break in oil??

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MvJackson

72duster
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I am about to put in my fresh 318 .060 over and 9.3:1 compression and rebuilt 904.
I know the break in oil should have a high zinc content.
I'm getting the amsoil 30 for the break in. But after I wanted to know if I should go with a thicker viscosity synthetic.
I've heard different things from different people.
What's everyone using nowadays?
 
I used comp cams 10w30 break in oil along with their cam and lifter assembly lube. Cam didn't go flat so it did its job
 
Ok so a standard break in oil would be better?

After break in I was gonna put amsoil hi performance synthetic
 
stick will dino oil for a couple thousand miles to get the rings broke in ...then switch to synthetic...rings have a hard time seating with the slipper synthetic oil...
 
stick will dino oil for a couple thousand miles to get the rings broke in ...then switch to synthetic...rings have a hard time seating with the slipper synthetic oil...

Awesome. So break in oil and then old school then synthetic??
 
Awesome. So break in oil and then old school then synthetic??

No, old school oil and then synth.

Amsoil said it has break in oil in synth. I myself have never heard of this. Last engine I built 2 years ago was broken in with dino oil and changed out after the cam break in along with the filter. Been doing it this way always. Never a problem.

Grab a oil pump priming rod and run it on the drill for a minute to get oil up and everywhere in the engine. There is no need to run a heavy thick oil like a 20/50. I have always used a 10/30.
 

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Cool. I have an amsoil dealer close by.
It was basically between the amsoil and comp cams break in.
 
We went with 10W30 dino Brad Penn for break-in of the 340 for good ring seating as mentioned, and have changed it once at about 250 miles. Will change to a synthetic at 500 miles or so, coming up pretty soon. (Probably a 1100 PPM zinc Mobil 1). I have broken-in a dozen or more rally race engines this way and then put in synthetics to race; they all performed great and lasted with super minimal wear this way, for engines that get flogged hard for 100's of miles.

BTW, synthetics work fantastically to reduce ring, bore, and bearing wear, but are nothing special for lifter wear or lifter leak-down in my experience with racing on them.
 
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