Broken K frame bolt removal HELP!

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George Lawicki

George Lawicki

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Hey guy's,

I have a broken K frame bolt stuck in the frame. I tried drilling and using an extractor on it with no success. I tried torching it out but my tip on my oxy acetylene torch needs replaced. ANY suggestions on how to remove this? Is the car ok to drive like this for a min? Also anyone have a K frame bolt? lol THANKS GUYS in advanced

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You could try and weld a nut on it, then soak it with some penetrant overnight, use heat when trying to remove.
 
Weld a nut onto it. Normally the heat of welding it will cause it to loosen
 
I've had luck with welding a washer to the bolt then weld a nut to the washer. Turn it back and forth to loosen up while slowing bringing it out. Might take 10 tries or you may get lucky on the first attempt.
 
I thought about that but I don't think I can get my flux welder up in there..Plus when I was using the torch I may have accidently fused the bolt threads and the frame threads together. The bolt is broken off into the frame there's no part of the bolt that sits above the surface its all way down there
 
If it's flush, then a left handed drill and easyout bolt removal tool with heat, lube and patience. Edit, try to keep it in the center of the broken bolt thread.
 
It's gonna take MIG at the very least to get the penetration needed to weld a nut on it for removal. Flux will not be strong enough. Someone good with a stick welder can do it too.
 
You could probably get away with driving it a little for short distances, but I wouldn't get up to highway speeds or anywhere close. RRR is right about getting better welding equipment in there. I would pull the k-member to make it easier to get at the bolt, but you may break other bolts.
 
If you give up getting the broken bolt out. What if you take the K frame off. Then take a thin grinding wheel and cut a square out of the frame around the bolt hole. Then get a square piece of metal the same thickness as the frame, drill a hole in it, then weld a nut on it. Weld it back in place. You're done.
 
Mark2205 said:
If you give up getting the broken bolt out. What if you take the K frame off. Then take a thin grinding wheel and cut a square out of the frame around the bolt hole. Then get a square piece of metal the same thickness as the frame, drill a hole in it, then weld a nut on it. Weld it back in place. You're done.
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He's going to have to locate it really well for that, but I agree, it's a good repair if he can do it correctly and get it "in the right spot".
 
Is there enough threads on the opposite side? Thread 2 nuts on, tighten them against each other. Turn CW and CCW, hopefully the slag from from your torch cut breaks off.

Good luck
 
Just keep stepping up drill sizes until you’re close to the edge then take a chisel and knock out the rest, after chase with a tap
 
You do NOT want to **** those threads in the frame. It Sounds like you've done enough damage with the torch. Put that crap away and let's do this the patient way.

Step one: take an easy out or broken bolt extractor and throw it in the fuckin garbage where it belongs.
Repeat until you're out of those ******* things and then stab yourself in the leg with a pocket knife next time you think about buying one.

Step two, drill a 1/8 hole in the SIDE of the frame beside the bolt, so you can spray penetrant on the threads exposed inside the frame rail.

Step three: heat that broken bolt with a propane torch and soak in the thickest penetrating oil you can find. Hit the amputated end and the new side hole.

Step four: start drilling. Center it up as best you can and drill it as plumb to the bolt centerline as you can. It's not a blind hole so you don't care about using left hand bits. If it comes loose and spins up into the frame, count your blessings and move on. If not, drill until you break through.

Odds are, you'll get into a fairly large drill bit that's going to get close to threads on one side, but when you start getting close it'll probably come loose. If it gets to this point, try to start removing material in the thick portion of it so you're not trying to drill something that's loose in the hole while it's dancing around messing up threads.

A carbide Burr on a Dremel, some safety glasses and ear plugs, and some patience will win this battle.

Then drill that 1/8 hole for the other three bolts and spray em BEFORE you try to remove em.
 
I used to work at a blacksmith / welding and repair shop. We did that kind of work all the time. Find one and take it there. If you don't have experience at this type of repair you may turn an easy fix into a hard one.
 
jos51700 said:
You do NOT want to **** those threads in the frame. It Sounds like you've done enough damage with the torch. Put that crap away and let's do this the patient way.

Step one: take an easy out or broken bolt extractor and throw it in the fuckin garbage where it belongs.
Repeat until you're out of those ******* things and then stab yourself in the leg with a pocket knife next time you think about buying one.

Step two, drill a 1/8 hole in the SIDE of the frame beside the bolt, so you can spray penetrant on the threads exposed inside the frame rail.

Step three: heat that broken bolt with a propane torch and soak in the thickest penetrating oil you can find. Hit the amputated end and the new side hole.

Step four: start drilling. Center it up as best you can and drill it as plumb to the bolt centerline as you can. It's not a blind hole so you don't care about using left hand bits. If it comes loose and spins up into the frame, count your blessings and move on. If not, drill until you break through.

Odds are, you'll get into a fairly large drill bit that's going to get close to threads on one side, but when you start getting close it'll probably come loose. If it gets to this point, try to start removing material in the thick portion of it so you're not trying to drill something that's loose in the hole while it's dancing around messing up threads.

A carbide Burr on a Dremel, some safety glasses and ear plugs, and some patience will win this battle.

Then drill that 1/8 hole for the other three bolts and spray em BEFORE you try to remove em.
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I like this approach. Slow, steady and he can keep a close eye on his progress.......BUT it looks like in one of the pictures he posted that he's already drilled it off center. That's gonna be TOUGH to over come.
 
Frank Mopar said:
Weld the K frame on.
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I'm glad that's clearly in jest so we don't have to label 'worst advice on the Internet'.

Daves69 said:
OOTB, If you have the room, an 1/8" hole drilled in the side of the frame at the bolt locations may allow you to saturate them with PB Blaster.
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I would've posted this first if my reply hadn't taken a half hour to type on this phone.

Ron816 said:
Just keep stepping up drill sizes until you’re close to the edge then take a chisel and knock out the rest, after chase with a tap
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Normally I'd agree but you don't want to risk breaking the weld on the nut holding it in place and you don't want to bungle those threads.

IF you chase it with a tap, use a good tap and coat it with antiseize. Work slow and don't crossthread that *****.

And antiseize ALL THE THINGS on reassembly. Follow the manual for torque spec, NO impact guns.
 
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92b said:
I used to work at a blacksmith / welding and repair shop. We did that kind of work all the time. Find one and take it there. If you don't have experience at this type of repair you may turn an easy fix into a hard one.
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He's already there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I like this approach. Slow, steady and he can keep a close eye on his progress.......BUT it looks like in one of the pictures he posted that he's already drilled it off center. That's gonna be TOUGH to over come.
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Agreed. Start in the center of the remainder so that as you step up bits it'll try to reach the first hole and the edge of the broken bolt about the same time.
Is that a damn easy out broke off in that hole?

As the hole you're drilling gets larger, you'll be able to see threads in the side of the hole. Stop drilling at that point. You don't want a big groove cut into those threads. You want as much of those threads remaining as possible.

This needs to be closer to a gyno exam, and less prom night in the back seat.
 
jos51700 said:
Agreed. Start in the center of the remainder so that as you step up bits it'll try to reach the first hole and the edge of the broken bolt about the same time.
Is that a damn easy out broke off in that hole?

As the hole you're drilling gets larger, you'll be able to see threads in the side of the hole. Stop drilling at that point. You don't want a big groove cut into those threads. You want as much of those threads remaining as possible.

This needs to be closer to a gyno exam, and less prom night in the back seat.
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If it's a broke off ease out, he may as well get someone in there and blow it out with a torch. Plenty of people out there good enough that all he'll need to do is chase the threads with a tap. Might be the quickest and easiest way. Or plasma cutter.
 
RustyRatRod said:
He's already there.
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He's not off to a good start. The position of the hole he drilled tells me he should probably take it to a pro. The crooked hole isn't a deal breaker that can be fixed if needed. He should probably quit while he's ahead though.
 
92b said:
He's not off to a good start. The position of the hole he drilled tells me he should probably take it to a pro. The crooked hole isn't a deal breaker that can be fixed if needed. He should probably quit while he's ahead though.
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I agree....and to be clear, we're not beatin on you, OP. We're trying to give you good advice. We all have our limitations and I gotta say I cannot STAND doin what you're doing. I've had some good luck with it in the past, but it's LUCK, not skill. lol I have friends I turn to when I know I'm over my head......and it happens pretty often sometimes.
 
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