moper
Well-Known Member
Is the goal 400 horsepower? In the car or on the dyno because the differential between those two will be dramatic in that chassis. As will be the cost factor and parts choices.
Had one for one summer, with a 4-speed. yanked it.Purple Shaft 509 lift hyd. None better.
Purple Shaft 509 lift hyd. None better.
Had one for one summer, with a 4-speed. yanked it.
The goal is 400 HP at the crank.Is the goal 400 horsepower? In the car or on the dyno because the differential between those two will be dramatic in that chassis. As will be the cost factor and parts choices.
This post is all about low-rpm power with a manual trans
...
Thanks for all the input so far!
Rusty - I could not figure out exactly which cam you were referring to - below is a 'table' of Lunati cams in the range I'm considering. Is your choice one of these?
Below that is a list of COMP cams, with the suggestion from "D" as the third row.
-Jim
BRAND SERIES DURATION AT .05 ADVERTIZED DURATION LIFT LSA RPM Range
Lunati
Voodoo 10200700 208/213 253/258 .454/.454 112/108 idle-5000
Voodoo 10200701 213/220 256/262 .454/.475 112/108 1000-5500
Voodoo 10200702 220/226 262/268 .475/.494 112/108 1400-5800
Voodoo 10200703 226/234 268/276 .494/.513 110/106 1800-6200
Voodoo 10200704 234/242 276/284 .513/.533 110/106 2200-6400
Voodoo 10200705 242/252 284/292 .533/.552 110/106 2500-6600
COMP
Xtreme Energy 20-223-3 224/230 268/280 .477/.480 110/110 1600-5800
Xtreme Energy 20-224-4 230/236 276/286 .488/.491 110/110 1800-6000
Xtreme Energy HI-LIFT 20-227-4 231/237 275/287 .525/.525 110/110 2000-6000
Xtreme Energy 20-225-4 240/246 284/296 .507/.510 110/110 2300-6500
Xtreme Energy 20-226-4 250/256 294/306 .519/.524 110/110 3000-7000
Xtreme Energy HI-LIFT 20-228-4 241/247 285/297 .545/.545 106/106 2500-6500
Xtreme Energy HI-LIFT 20-229-4 251/257 295/304 .564/.564 110/110 3000-6800
And based on what I'm learning, maybe I would be good with that. I DO want to have some low-end power, and I'm willing to trade top-end power for it.
Can that be done with the iron head? I assume it can...now I need to figure out what cam!
Me, personally, I would not run that factory 268 cam , but in your combo it can be used to kill some pressure.For a streeter,
IMO;
Since it is going into in a lightweight-A, with log-exhaust, (EDIT: headers shown in the pic) and 3.23 gears; I would treat it as a big-bore 318..
With 3.23s and a 4-speed, first gear will be a tireburner no matter what cam you put into it. That means Second gear is gonna be where all the action is.
The goal is 400 HP at the crank.
Best honest advice of the thread.Then just build my recommendation. I'm not right every time, but I'm spot on here for what you want. You won't be disappointed. Just go for it man.
Best honest advice of the thread.
Like the BS I am going to inject into this thread and I'm not even gonna apologize first.You can lead a horse to water......but he'll get sidetracked every time by all the forum bullshit.
You can lead a horse to water......but he'll get sidetracked every time by all the forum bullshit.
Like the BS I am going to inject into this thread and I'm not even gonna apologize first.
Does your cam recommendation go out the window when using hi-po stock manifolds?
OK, Sorry.
Not for nothing but if you wanna build power, why stick a cork in the dam thing! I bet you’ll run great with a banana up your nose as well.Like the BS I am going to inject into this thread and I'm not even gonna apologize first.
Does your cam recommendation go out the window when using hi-po stock manifolds?
OK, Sorry.
LOL. Dont need 400 ponies. Just want all I can get from a stock look.Not for nothing but if you wanna build power, why stick a cork in the dam thing! I bet you’ll run great with a banana up your nose as well.
Then stop by-jacking the thread and create a new one.LOL. Dont need 400 ponies. Just want all I can get from a stock look.
Hi-Jack over. My build is a long ways away. Just trying to glean a little info before I start my own thread. like... add a few degrees of exhaust duration.Then stop by-jacking the thread and create a new one.
FWIW, if you just want to get the most out of your engine with exhaust manifolds, then just ignore the fact you have them....
I suggest a few more exhaust degrees of duration than normal splits
Oh no doubt! Learn what ya can and good looking luck on the buildHi-Jack over. My build is a long ways away. Just trying to glean a little info before I start my own thread.
Here's the deal, IMHO. If you do a complete and thorough job on a rebuild, it won't cost all that much more to beef up the horsepower while you are at it. So doing a fairly stock rebuild is fine if that is REALLY what you want to do, but will you be kicking yourself in the butt in a few months? If you decide a year down the road that you want an extra 100 (or so) HP, you will be pulling the motor out, pulling it apart and then buying the parts you should have bought the first time. And THAT will wind up costing you more in the long run. Unless you are constrained by a tight budget, do what you really want to do the first time.I do understand that sentiment! However, part of me wants to show just how stout the little 340 is when it's basically stock!
LOL. Dont need 400 ponies. Just want all I can get from a stock look.
So thanks, Rusty, for that cam recommendation - I think it does a good job of fitting my realistic parameters!...
Rusty says he likes the Lunati 10200703 which is
268/276/110/52*overlap/120 comp/110 power, Ica of 60*
I like it too, except I might put it in straight up/no advance to trade away 2* of compression to get 2* of power extraction, and that would run at 10.0Scr on pumpgas,barely.
...
So thanks, Rusty, for that cam recommendation - I think it does a good job of fitting my realistic parameters!
AJ - I got the spec from Lunati about that cam, and based on that, I attempted to fill out the formula, and here's what I entered and what it
calculated:
Number of Cylinders : 8
Bore in Inches : 4.08
Stroke in Inches : 3.31
Rod Length in Inches : 6.123
Static Compression Ratio : 10 :1
Inlet Valve Closes ABDC : 39°
Boost Pressure in PSI : 0
Target Altitude : 800 (Feet)
Results:
Static compression ratio of 10:1.
Effective stroke is 3.03 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.24:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 192.80 PSI.
Your effective boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 9.08 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 183
Either there is something off in my input, or this is an outstanding cam. Please correct me if I've entered something incorrectly...
-Jim
I thought the same thing, but AJ has examples of 2.5, 2.6, 2.7...so I don't know where it comes from or how to calculate it. (I'm thinking it does have something to do with the timing of the intake valve closure after BDC.)I thought "effective stroke" was always HALF the total stroke. That number seem strange.