bigcasey123
Active Member
Are the pistons 10:1 flat tops?
building a mild Daily driver 318
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Are the pistons 10:1 flat tops?
No, but you can ask for a sub. The only 10-1 slugs I know of off ha d are from Keith Black in HuperU or forged. Ether way, there expensive.
bigcasey123
Active Member
I was gonna have to do something to the drive shaft anyway bc im swapping trannys as well
And thanks for the info
And $250?!? would it work? what comes with it for that price
way lower than i expected
And thanks for the info
And $250?!? would it work? what comes with it for that price
way lower than i expected
bigcasey123
Active Member
are they just stock specs then?
IIRC, there Badger pistons. Yes, stock replacements. Older '69 - 318's have a higher compression ratio. Order a set for that older year engine.
An 8-1/4 should be complete @ that price. Or at least axle flange to axle flange.
I paid $200 for mine axle flange to axle flange with a sure grip equipped unit with 3.21 gears. Adding 10 or 11'inch drums is as easy as the parts store. You just need backing plates to match.
An 8-1/4 should be complete @ that price. Or at least axle flange to axle flange.
I paid $200 for mine axle flange to axle flange with a sure grip equipped unit with 3.21 gears. Adding 10 or 11'inch drums is as easy as the parts store. You just need backing plates to match.
bigcasey123
Active Member
wow sounds good
I don't know. I've only done kit a myself, but there may be a choice of pistons or not, call and ask Mancini...
mguner
How many is too many?
Wiseco makes a good flat top.
BlueDream
Aspiring Mopar enthusiast
I have seen a complete A body unit for $150 before. They don't get the spotlight like the 8 3/4 and Dana 60, so they go for cheap. I'm sure more than a few have gotten sold for scrap over the years.
I saw an 8 1/4 rear 4.10 ring and pinion for sale here yesterday for $100, I'd check Craigslist first for an 8 1/4 because shipping one would not be cheap, or you could wait for one to show up for sale on here and hope it's within driving distance. One thing to note about the 8 1/4 is that there are two different carriers. 2.71 and down used one carrier, anything higher used another. One is 27 spline and one is 29 spline, if I remember correctly. Just something to think about when you find one you might buy or you need to buy parts like a sure grip.
Somewhere on the rear end there should be a tag with the gear ratio on it, assuming nobody has messed with it over the years which is entirely possible.
I have used (and will be using again 
) B-body 8 3/4 rear ends. I prefer 1965 cause they are a little narrower than the 66-70's, but all work just fine. I do NOT move the perches, I oval the hole in the perch in about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (equal both sides). Bolts right in and gets rid of the "sunken in look" of the back wheels on dusters...lol ! Oh, by the way, the 7 1/4 will take some abuse with the 318. In fact, I've never broke one in the time before switching it out.
) B-body 8 3/4 rear ends. I prefer 1965 cause they are a little narrower than the 66-70's, but all work just fine. I do NOT move the perches, I oval the hole in the perch in about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (equal both sides). Bolts right in and gets rid of the "sunken in look" of the back wheels on dusters...lol ! Oh, by the way, the 7 1/4 will take some abuse with the 318. In fact, I've never broke one in the time before switching it out.
Just a FYI on heads, I've used 360 heads on 318's more than once. I've had them milled about .040, cost about 60 bucks for the pair. And NO, I did NOT do anything with the push rods or intake, bolted everything together as normal. Worked fine ever time. Many here will NOT agree with what I wrote here, and that's fine, but I will take flow ANY day of the week and twice on Sunday over compression. Both will help, but when I have to make the choice, give me flow and I'll dust the rest !!!
!!!
ir3333
Well-Known Member
i can't believe after 34 posts somebody hasn't tossed in "your better off with a used 360"
which would then led to a 340 / 360 contest.
..well done ,some good info for a mild 318 build,just like others have said keep the cam
duration on the short side.
which would then led to a 340 / 360 contest.
..well done ,some good info for a mild 318 build,just like others have said keep the cam
duration on the short side.
You just HAD to bring it up, didn't you?
:violent1:
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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For a Streeter that spends most of it's life at under 3500 rpm, I will take Compression over flow. 3500rpm is about 38 mph with 2.94s in a 904-first gear. Even with 3.91s, 3500 gets you about 30mph.Your heads could flow 700 and it wouldn't be worth a hoot. But 3 points of compression will pay back big time,all the time, every time.
Leaving the McDonalds drive through you would be correct. Leaving the lights at the 1320 you would be toast.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
home port some 302 heads (for the closed chambers). pistons to raise the SCR & achieve .035" quench. any cheap dual plane intake. eddy 1406 600 cfm (& a strip kit, its lean). dial in the dist when up & running. #1 free flowing manifold/exhaust. the '92 early 93 mags with the 1&5/16" outlets are VG. mandrel bends. a somewhat freeflowing muffs (which'll be somewhat loud) then some glasspacks alongside the leaf spring to further muffle the noise to an acceptable level but keeping the ex restriction to as minimal as possible.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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What Robert said, or
headers and 3 inchers all the way. LC teeners don't make a lot of noise. Mine's real mellow thru the Dynomaxers.Real mellow.
headers and 3 inchers all the way. LC teeners don't make a lot of noise. Mine's real mellow thru the Dynomaxers.Real mellow.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
For a daily driver, compression is the thing to go for IMO.... pays off all across the RPM band. Pays off in mileage and crisp response, any time you hit the throttle. But if you want to romp a bit, then SOME flow is gonna be needed over the stock Mopar heads. The 360 heads on a higher CR 318 is where I would go for not too much dough in the heads; there are choices in the KB piston line to get decent CR with those heads.
Quench is optional; I prefer to do it.... but it adds some build complexity and cost.
I agree street cars should look at under 3500 performance since that's where they spend it. Also should try to stretch the powerband as far as possible as long as it comes with little penalties to lower end which would be idle to 5000-5500. I agree with compression but only when the engine is being torn into its not very costs effective performance mod. Cam headers and 4bbl will get the OP to the bottom end of his goal.
Just a FYI on heads, I've used 360 heads on 318's more than once. I've had them milled about .040, cost about 60 bucks for the pair. And NO, I did NOT do anything with the push rods or intake, bolted everything together as normal. Worked fine ever time. Many here will NOT agree with what I wrote here, and that's fine, but I will take flow ANY day of the week and twice on Sunday over compression. Both will help, but when I have to make the choice, give me flow and I'll dust the rest
Me and my family done a few and worked pretty well.
My cousin needed to redo a rod in his 340 late model stock car threw all the 340 parts onto a dead stock smokey 318 short block didn't win but keep pace with the fast pack.
Why not get the rebuilt $450magnum heads off ebay a 4bbl intake and a mopar 761 cam then use thin head gaskets that will put you in the 300+ are on a 318 unless all the magazine articles and mopar performance is wrong. There was a 65' barracuda running that set up on a 318 and running 13.95 area 1/4 times. Almost seems the magnum heads were designed around the 318
On the rear end, spend a few bucks on 90w and pop the cover off.
On my first duster the 7.25 never broke, I had a ex wife that was hard on motors, constantly blowing clutches.
I put 4 basically stock 318 with 4bbl, headers, duels and she broke them all.
I got the car back in the divorce, put one engine in it and ran it hard, 7.25 stayed together until I sold it.
Total years of abuse on the lowly 7.25 10 years behind a 4-speed.
I did build a 8.75 for the current duster I have.
$200 for a stock A body housing bare.
I had a 3.23 Sure grip but today's prices they run around $450.
Bought Dr. Diffs axles for $330.
The nice thing with Dr. Diffs axles is they will work with the brakes off your 7.25.
So....... I have about $550 out of pocket money in a 8.75
On my first duster the 7.25 never broke, I had a ex wife that was hard on motors, constantly blowing clutches.
I put 4 basically stock 318 with 4bbl, headers, duels and she broke them all.
I got the car back in the divorce, put one engine in it and ran it hard, 7.25 stayed together until I sold it.
Total years of abuse on the lowly 7.25 10 years behind a 4-speed.
I did build a 8.75 for the current duster I have.
$200 for a stock A body housing bare.
I had a 3.23 Sure grip but today's prices they run around $450.
Bought Dr. Diffs axles for $330.
The nice thing with Dr. Diffs axles is they will work with the brakes off your 7.25.
So....... I have about $550 out of pocket money in a 8.75
I contacted them last month and they told me their piston was out of production and there would be a new one sometime after the new year, fyi.
From what I understand pistons are not in the OP's budget so won't be a factor in this particular build. Such strong opinions on some of these matters. I over cammed my low compression 318, kind of just to see what would happen and it ran great IMO. I wouldn't recommend that to anyone but it worked just fine for me, no issues. But like I said I am going the compression route now so I will see if it was really worth it or not.
I am also one that can attest to the 7.25 not holding up to abuse... I broke mine with a bone stock 318 and plenty of burn outs before the carrier exploded and threw a spider into the cover. I went 8.75 because of personal preference for the drop out center, but I paid quite a bit for an a-body unit with 2.94 open 741, and haven't looked at their prices in a while.
Why do you want 10:1 compression? Are you looking for an engine that wont run on pump gas?
Infecteddog
Well-Known Member
That. 600cfms are cheap, you can make a Holley act great, the Action+ or even a stock intake would be a good upgrade.
I really think something like that's about right. My winter rat with a stock teen wearing a 4bbl and headers pulls about like a 360 truck.Just add horses. headers and duals is a for sure 20, 4bbl should be 20, 340 cam should be 20, mild home porting should be 10, and there is 70 horses ya wanted.
'nother vote for an 8.25. Fine rear end, wide gear selection, cheap gears, easy to get cheap LSDs for it, big bolt pattern upgrade along with the front discs- grabbing as much as you could from a stock big bolt 8.25 disc car would be the ideal way to do it cheap.
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