Correct, you'll most likely need to find Torx drive bolts that have a round head. Same kind of bolts that Jesel uses in some of their kits. Sometimes you can find an ARP bolt that will fit but usually the flange is too big. If you have a lathe you can turn down the ARP bolts to fit. We typically use a Torx head.
Building a new 505 With Callies / Mopar Performance Block
- Thread starter SMCARNUT
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ValiantS
Well-Known Member
That's what I have done...chuck it in a lathe and cut the flange down!
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
Look at Vizard's video on proper tube lengths. Don't sweat the lengths being equal so much you sweat having gentle radius, also sweat the order the tubes are in the collector. Depending on the underhood room available, you could probably just do 2.125 into a 3.5" collector until 900HP. ALSO sweat that S.plug access is easy!
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
Ranting is ok with me if it helps you vent and persevere! This is just typical new engine building adversity but, it is good that you are chronicling it for many new to see details that should go into a build. I mostly source McMasterCarr and "Allens" hardware out of texas? for misc hardware.
Harland Sharp earned a customer for life when they helped me out of a situation which wasn’t even their fault. Long story short, broke a shaft in half and killed 4 rockers. Called HS and they sent me everything I needed to get it fixed.
When my harland sharp rocker shafts broke my original builder blamed me for the bolts I gave him. ( I didn't bring him any bolts for them)
I had a little extra time today. I just measured my piston to deck clearance it is in the hole .010. If I did my math correct that puts me at 11.93-1. Please correct me if I am wrong.
10.72 deck height, 4.350 bore, 4.250 stroke, 7.100 rod length, 78cc head, +4.50 piston cc, .039 gasket (4.410 bore).
Has anyone actually cc'd a Trickflow 270 head to see if they measure as advertised at 78cc? I was thinking about measuring one just to see if they are true at 78cc.
Next, I will need to degree the cam and check my valve to piston clearance hopefully next week as this weekend if filling up quickly.
10.72 deck height, 4.350 bore, 4.250 stroke, 7.100 rod length, 78cc head, +4.50 piston cc, .039 gasket (4.410 bore).
Has anyone actually cc'd a Trickflow 270 head to see if they measure as advertised at 78cc? I was thinking about measuring one just to see if they are true at 78cc.
Next, I will need to degree the cam and check my valve to piston clearance hopefully next week as this weekend if filling up quickly.
I measured 1,7,2,8 on my heads before I surfaced .080 they all measured very very close to 78cc's
Thanks, I will use 78cc for my calculations. Did you check any after you surfaced your head to see what the cc came out to?
65 cc's & 12.9:1 with flat top +7 cc reliefs.
My pistons are+.010 and a .051 head gasket
Thanks for the information I really appreciate the help.
Steve
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
I use the Diamond Racing Pistons calculator because it’s quick and simple. Shows 11.78 to 1 compression ratio, so you are probably right on your numbers.
Do you know how far down is the 1st ring from the piston crown? Only makes a tiny difference but I could not find it listed for the Icon pistons so I guessed .310” which may be off a little.
Did you verify the piston volume? At 4.5cc the notches must not be really deep.
J-c-c
Well-Known Member
IMO the motor would be better served lifting from only the center main vs the short strap bridle rig in the opening pic.
Nice motor BTW.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I get 11.82:1 cr.
1130.6 (total)
/95.6 (total minus swept)
——————
11.826
If you milled the heads to 72cc, it would put you just over 12.5:1
1130.6 (total)
/95.6 (total minus swept)
——————
11.826
If you milled the heads to 72cc, it would put you just over 12.5:1
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Of course Steve, anytime
Damn I forgot to about that calculation. I must be going brain dead Icon catalog told me .260 that is what I used for calculations this time and came up with 11.81-1.
Hopefully I have the valve to piston clearance to mill the head. Find out next week. Notches are not very deep.
Thanks for the double check everyone.
Parts did not show up for the other work I had scheduled today. That allowed me to do some more work on my engine today.
The cam bolts came in today so I installed them today I still have to have them machined so they will clear the cam button. At this point I decided to degree in the camshaft. The cam card wanted the center line @107. The cam checked out at 111.5 CL with timing gears on the "0". I advanced it to 107.5 CL using the advance +4 keyway. Rechecked and it came right in at 107.5 that is as close as I can get at this point. Next week I will check my valve to piston clearance.
Picture showing the 1 piston .010 in the hole. Another picture showing the piston stop I use to setup my degree wheel. Another couple of pictures showing the dial indicator that I used to degree the camshaft. Just for everyone's reference cam degrees at .050 before max lift was 65 and at .050 after max lift was 150. 150+65=215. 215 divided by 2 = 107.5. Hopefully these pictures may help someone in the future.
The cam bolts came in today so I installed them today I still have to have them machined so they will clear the cam button. At this point I decided to degree in the camshaft. The cam card wanted the center line @107. The cam checked out at 111.5 CL with timing gears on the "0". I advanced it to 107.5 CL using the advance +4 keyway. Rechecked and it came right in at 107.5 that is as close as I can get at this point. Next week I will check my valve to piston clearance.
Picture showing the 1 piston .010 in the hole. Another picture showing the piston stop I use to setup my degree wheel. Another couple of pictures showing the dial indicator that I used to degree the camshaft. Just for everyone's reference cam degrees at .050 before max lift was 65 and at .050 after max lift was 150. 150+65=215. 215 divided by 2 = 107.5. Hopefully these pictures may help someone in the future.
Looking good Steve
Took Andy's advice and dropped off both sets of heads @ machine shop on Saturday morning first thing. They milled all the rocker arm stands so that I can run the stock .047 shims. Machine shop did me a favor and I was able to pick them up late Saturday afternoon. So, the Trickflow 240's and 270's are now done. Hopefully the torx bolts will come in this week for my camshaft gear. Picture of the motor in the plastic bag is the street motor 505 with a solid flat tappet camshaft from Hughes and Trickflow 240 heads. This is one of my friends' motors 10.5-1 that we are waiting on parts to complete. I put the heads on this motor and test fit the hand ported M1 intake. Now back to my motor to start checking valve to piston clearance.
What size cam is going in the 505 ?
In the street motor .576/.588 solid flat tappet. My cam is a solid roller .693/.677
Oh yeah that 505 is going to give that guy neck problems lol.
Your cam sounds like all business... really cool Steve
Should be good for roughly 600 power and 600 torque. We do a fair number of 505 big block with the 240 heads and they always make great power and torque. Really nice beasts for the street.
Exhaust valve to piston clearance at the tightest point is .215. I use a degree wheel when I and check the valve to piston clearance. I check valve to piston clearance every two degrees from 30 degrees before until thirty degrees after. I measured it with a dial indicator using checking springs. I really do not like using the clay method.
I have used both methods and prefer a dial indicator. Valve lash set at .020. Using a Felpro .039 setup head gasket. I will check the valve to piston clearance on the intake valve tomorrow.
I have used both methods and prefer a dial indicator. Valve lash set at .020. Using a Felpro .039 setup head gasket. I will check the valve to piston clearance on the intake valve tomorrow.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
You have way more clearance than what your measurements show.
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