Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Are you checking the radial valve clearance too? Curious how much it will have on those pistons in this combo.
Building a new 505 With Callies / Mopar Performance Block
- Thread starter SMCARNUT
- Start date
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I run HS on my W2s and they have been super helpfull and quick to respond / ship !
I have not checked the radial valve clearance. Wanted basic valve to piston numbers first.
I would think more than 600/600 … I run a nearly identical cam in my 408 with W2s and it dynos at 490/490 with only 9.5:1 compression.
But maybe the extra cubes won’t make as much difference as I think ?
I just could not wait. lol
I just checked the intake valve to piston clearance and the closest I got was .170.
I just checked the intake valve to piston clearance and the closest I got was .170.
Scody21
Just send it
my brother checks the radial first, (have to as we run .0030 clearance. It is a racing engine) The pockets are on the pistons (custom CP) are small side due to using them with a few different heads / valve sizes. He has a valve stem cut to a point, bolts the head on, then puts the stem through the guide to pips the piston top for each valve. He pulls the head, then checks the valve center to edge and the pip to side of pocket clearance. I learned how to fly cut them on the mill last week. 8 pistons and 32 pockets later…. Fun times. Still have the piston vise on the mill. I’ll post a pic tomorrow.
I am using a Milodon oiling system with a dual line swivel pickup. The oil pump is a Melling Hi volume with Milodon cover. (oiling system is on order since before Xmas the pan, windage tray, external oil pressure regulator, and pump have come in the rest of the parts are on back order until March). I am going to check the radial clearance on the valves today at some point.
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
EXCELLENT work/method!
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
Good advice...I'd probably loosely bolt the head on without a gasket and go to zero lash and see how the radial 'imprints' some clay. I doubt your ICL will ever want to be lower than 108ish and the intake p2v will only get better further retarded.
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
As has been eluded to...with the real springs, you'll probably NET about .025" less lift. How does the sweep look? Have any pushrod interference? I usually trim the excess gasket out of the valley. What diameter and wall pushrod do you plan to use?
The radial looks good. Approx .120. The sweep on the valve stems looks good. The picture did not turn out so good will try again later. I am going to call pushrod manufactures later this week it looks like from testing with my 5/16 checking pushrods that I will have room for 3/8 pushrods. But I want to ask them about wall thickness and 11/32 pushrods just to get their opinion. As of now I believe I would order 11/32 or 3/8 .120 wall pushrods. Pushrod length is 9.620 on the exhaust and 9.660 on the intake. I will have to check with pushrod manufacture as most only come in .025 or .050 lengths if my memory still works.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Looks like there is ample room for head milling if you decide to go that route.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Your pushrods are over 9 5/8 long. That’s LONG. The minimum pushrod diameter should be 3/8.
Mark my words, every pushrod manufacturer will tell you their 5/16 stuff are more than plenty but they are dead wrong.
You can’t get a pushrod too big or too stiff. Engine Masters tested this. I learned it the hard way in the 1980’s.
Scody21
Just send it
Here is the piston vise and fly cutter on the mill and a piston where you can see the pip in the center of the pocket.
Mine are tapered 7/16 on my 572.
What wall thicknesses are you running and what kind of spring pressure are you looking at? What brand of pushrods do you have?
I am looking at 3/8 .120 wall now. I am waiting till I cut my heads .040 before I order pushrods want to verify the length one more time before I order them.
I wish I could give you more info but that was over three years ago. I’ll try to look for the paperwork on my messy bench tomorrow. I know they were tapered 7/16 and expensive. I’m going to bet Trend.
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
The past few years, I've taken a liking to Manton! They were cheaper than my local Trend and QUICKER. I'd go right to one of their cheaper non-tapered 7/16". They use a longer end at the lifter to help for any clearance issues negating the need for a taper. I always have used a offset lifter seat on the intakes, that little bit really straightens the trajectory for my liking. Even with a centered lifter I'd bet any clearance needed would be minimal.
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
Nice! You'd be a valuable friend to many in the hobby. lol
Manton is good for pushrods, so is Smith Bros. I have about $3000 worth of used pushrods in the cabinet. I reuse them when possible or else I send them to Smith Bros to but cut to length and have new ends put on. Saves a lot of money if you can reuse existing pushrods.
Crazy how many years we ran off the shelf 9 1/4 pushrods with .750 lift cams back in the 1980’s.
I have decided to cut .040 off of the heads to get my compression back up to 12.5-1. I am also having them machine the intake surface also .048.
I figured since the oiling system parts will not be here until mid to late march might as well get them done now. After the heads come back, I will measure the pushrod length one more time before ordering.
I figured since the oiling system parts will not be here until mid to late march might as well get them done now. After the heads come back, I will measure the pushrod length one more time before ordering.
He never got back to me, and I did not want to keep bugging him.
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