Bypass OE ampmeter

[Dart swinger 73]

Some one posted a dieagam on how to do this. Bypass OE ampmeter But he just said. 1 blk wire to the fuse box, 1 blk wire to the wiper switch, and 1 blk wire the the light switch. I think on the 2 switches would go to the red wire. The big question is where do i hook the blk wire in the fuse box. Now there is a blk wire w/ white strip in the fuse box. That goes to the light switch. If I'm bypassing the ampmeter. Why can't I just install a in line 20 amp fuse and split and go right to the 2 switches.
I also have an fuseable link at the starter relay. New cars tell you what each fuse is for. Radio, wiper, interior lights. In 73 all it tells you is the amp size. :banghead:

 

[Beatnik]

I just run a length of 10-12 gauge wire with suitable 14-16 gauge piece of fusible link from the starter relay lug to the alt lug. It takes the load off the ampmeter and the bulk of the charging circuit no longer runs through the bulkhead connector/dash and back out again. Then I just hookup a good aftermarket voltmeter. Done.

 

[67Dart273]

Depends on "whether you care" if the ammeter works or is accurate. The thing is, when you move loads from the original source to the relay stud with no other improvements, then it depends on whether the alternator is the source, or the battery. Same deal if you move the loads to the alternator stud.

Running a 'huge' wire direct from alternator to starter relay is one way, but this removes ALL fuse protection AKA "the fuse link." And of course makes the ammeter ineffective.

 

[Dart swinger 73]

I already ran a new 8 gage wire from the alt. to the starter relay w/ 14 gage fuseable link. That stock line was burnt going through the 8 wire connection. Now it runs straight to the relay. I want as many stock dash gages working. I will also have new Temp, Oil, Amp gages inside or maybe outside on the cowl.:???: