Cam card for Mopar Purple shaft 284 cam p4120653

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Trying to degree this cam for a friend and can't find the cam card anywhere on the web!

Anybody got one they can snap a pic of?
 
Hey Joe, this is the solid, not hydraulic. Part number 4120653
I found the info for it on Victory, but nothing I'm seeing on the wheel is matching up.

Are these degrees supposed to be at .006 tappet lift?
 
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The numbers are on that site for the solid cams.

I'd either get reading at .050 tappet lift of .050-.100 down from max lift and degree it from there. I usually put that cam in about 106-107 depending on compression.
 
Joe's link is the Victory site and has the cam data... which it sounds like you have. Yes, the opening and closing numbers on that page are at low lift and I would assume are tappet measurements (.004" or .005" or .006"; I dunno which MP used.)

If you can measure and give us .005" tappet opening and closing angles for both sides, then it is easy to back-compute the ICL. (And remember, your lash will reduce the actual durations if you are measuring at the valve; openings will be later and closings earlier at the valve. It sounds like you know this already.)
 
Thanks guys.
It was my first try degreeing, and well, it didn't go all that great. I got the intake opening right once at .006, but then could not get repeatable results.
My buddy had to go somewhere, so we will try again another day. It was a used cam, so I really wanted to make sure it is what it's supposed to be.

I have a 268 Purple shaft hydraulic I need to degree as well, so maybe I can try that one next week to get the process down.

I wish I had a better set up than a Harbor Freight magnetic base for the dial indicator. Is there an affordable alternative?
I can't afford the high dollar kits right now, but would like a rig that is more stable.
I have a HF dial indicator, Comp wheel , piston stop, and solid lifter.
We disassembled an old hydraulic lifter and cut a cup pushrod down and welded it to give something to read tappet lift off of.
 
If you have the indicator pointer at an angle it can give kadiwampus readings.... As will as an unstable mount.
 
mbaird said:
If you have the indicator pointer at an angle it can give kadiwampus readings.... As will as an unstable mount.
Click to expand...
EXCUSE ME... but it's 'kattywampus' LOL

For the OP, make sure you are rotating the engine in the same direction (CW) as you approach each reading. If you go too far and pass a reading point, then back up a bunch and approach the measurement point again in the CW direction. If you approach the same point going CW and then CCW, you will get different degree readings due to chain slack. The more the slack, the worse the variations.

What are you using as a pointer? Good trick on the 'solid' lifter.
 
crackedback said:
The numbers are on that site for the solid cams.

I'd either get reading at .050 tappet lift of .050-.100 down from max lift and degree it from there. I usually put that cam in about 106-107 depending on compression.
Click to expand...

As Rob says...find TDC to set your degree wheel...turn the engine over until max lift is recorded on dial indicator .....set dial indicator to zero....turn engine over ...read indicator at .050 before max lift and after max lift...add two number together..divide by two....you can double check by using .100 before and after max lift...

also I dont know if those opening and closing of the intake valve are correct at Victory.......

what you can do...is turn engine over and reset dial indicator to zero on the heal of the cam.....rotate engine until .050 cam lift ....read the degree wheel....continue until you get to .050 cam lift before it hit zero....read the degree wheel....those will be the Opening and closing of the intake valve...plus it will give you the duration at .050....which victory say it is 241....

never used a 284 solid ..but the next two bigger ones ...i get 258 duration instead of the post 252 for the mopar 557 cam...and the 272 instead of 265 for the mopar 590 cam
 
Also another way to check CL....add up the duration...then divide by two...then subtract the intake valve opening from that number...
 
70aarcuda said:
As Rob says...find TDC to set your degree wheel...turn the engine over until max lift is recorded on dial indicator .....set dial indicator to zero....turn engine over ...read indicator at .050 before max lift and after max lift...add two number together..divide by two....you can double check by using .100 before and after max lift...

also I dont know if those opening and closing of the intake valve are correct at Victory.......
...i get 258 duration instead of the post 252 for the mopar 557 cam...and the 272 instead of 265 for the mopar 590 cam
Click to expand...
One of the reasons I wanted to see the actual cam card, besides being wary of the cam itself, the box he got it in is mostly tape, and the part number has been blacked out. If I could find two sources of specs that matched, I would at least be able to be sure what I should be seeing. Being such an old cam, with so many different versions for different engines, in hydraulic and solid, and basically being identified as THE Purple Shaft 284 cam...well...it's probsbly my mistake, but I hate chasing my tail due to bad info.
 
Other problem..MP cams have no part number on them...so if you have an old box...LOL....no telling what that cam is ..Degree it in and read the numbers ...

victory numbers shows the .557 cam at 252 duration...I usually find them at 258 duration at .050....so take the victory numbers with a grain of salt...
MP 590 is says 265.....I got 4 of those camshafts and they all dialed around 271-272 ...
 
The 528 cams I've had were in the 241 range at .050 IIRC

The IO and IC should be around 13 and 47 if it's in at 107
At 110 should be around 10 and 50

I'd verify max lift first to make sure what you think you have is really what you have.

I have a HF dial indicator, Comp wheel , piston stop, and solid lifter.
Click to expand...

Same stuff I have, works fine. The HF mag base too.
 
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I find it very difficult to degree at numbers like .006 tappet lift with the intake installed.It's doable but you have to be really really careful. So when no cam card is available, I just use any other convenient number, like crackedback mentions in post #5.
I had a tool machined that slips into the lifter bore and runs up about an inch towards the deck, so of course the intake has to be off. This gives me repeatable results.
 
forget the .006 numbers...the real world uses .050
 
Yeah, sometimes a guy just wants to verify that his 284 really is a 284. Or in my case, a 276, 270, or 292, really were what I was told they were.
FYI; IIRC,I measured my Mopar 292 as a 249@050
 
MP purples were outsourced: made by whomever could "fill the bill" so the 'part' numbers on 2 284/484 cams could be totally different as they were likely vendor numbers. I found duration by degrees between .050 lift and then same lift on the downside, then dividing by 2. Youll always get the same number no matter what number you use: .006, .050, etc.

A 284/.484 is more like a 241 at .050. That hydro was pretty mild in my 340. Not real choppy.

Mopar Performance P4120231AE Details
Small Block (Hydraulic)

Duration at .050'': 241°/241
 
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