Cam Experts: Lobe Separation Angle?

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IMO
Since 1970, I've had four 340 cars, all 4speed/3.55, all with that stinking cam in them. All of them laid down at about 85 mph. which is 5500rpm in Third gear. I had guys in 440 New Yorker family boats, and such, that I annihilated off the line, that by 75 were getting bigger in my mirror, and pulling on my bumper by 80, and had I not specified
"I only race to 85", they wouldda had me in the quarter, which none of my stockers could break 100mph; not even the nearly brand new one that I bought in fall of 1970.
That is kind of my point. Many aren't going to spend much time if any near 5500 rpm. Whats the intended use?
Cams like many things are compromises. What compromises are you willing to make? There is no perfect cam that gives you everything not to say you won't be very happy with a properly selected cam if you are honest about your requirements.
 
Thanks for the inputs everyone, let's not argue. I left the 110 vs. 114 comparisons up as point of discussion, not to go into the details of why 114 was there in the first place. I was (still am) confused over how overlap (tight LSA) at idle can create an initial higher cranking psi. Case in point, I once had a 406 SBC that had a solid lifter circle track cam with 106 LSA, very detonation prone. I later changed out the cam to a milder hydraulic with 110/112 (long time ago) LSA, shorter duration, nothing else changed. That same motor ran fine on 89 octane unleaded. I guess that's partial evidence that tighter LSA can produce higher initial cranking psi. I don't have any power accessories on this car and it's a weekend only ride, so low vacuum and rowdy idle isn't an issue. Would a 106-108 LSA build up higher cranking pressure for my low compression combo?
Splittin hairs at best. All things equal, you MIGHT get a 20 PSI difference from narrow to wide LSA. Might. Might not.
 
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It wasn’t a performance cam either. Using one example is foolish.

Anyone that thinks when making power that LSA doesn’t matter just doesn’t get it.

Another poor example is looking at engines that are running high rpm with max compression and considering that LSA. Some use a very wide LSA to get the top of the piston with less valve notches.

The argument that it’s not LSA that matters but the events only look at one side of the equation. It is the cumulative of the events. Moving the events changes the LSA and changing the LSA changes the events.

Compression ratio, effective compression ratio, rod to stroke ratio and where you want to make peak torque has a major impact on LSA and ICL.
Sure it matters. It doesn't matter "near as much" though for a 100% street car. You start getting into dual purpose and race only stuff, then is when the biggest differences occur.
 
Thanks for the inputs everyone, let's not argue. I left the 110 vs. 114 comparisons up as point of discussion, not to go into the details of why 114 was there in the first place. I was (still am) confused over how overlap (tight LSA) at idle can create an initial higher cranking psi. Case in point, I once had a 406 SBC that had a solid lifter circle track cam with 106 LSA, very detonation prone. I later changed out the cam to a milder hydraulic with 110/112 (long time ago) LSA, shorter duration, nothing else changed. That same motor ran fine on 89 octane unleaded. I guess that's partial evidence that tighter LSA can produce higher initial cranking psi. I don't have any power accessories on this car and it's a weekend only ride, so low vacuum and rowdy idle isn't an issue. Would a 106-108 LSA build up higher cranking pressure for my low compression combo?


Ok, I think I now understand what you are asking.

It’s the overlap triangle and where that triangle is relative to TDC (that’s the ICL).

Overlap is the Intake Valve Opening point plus the Exhaust Valve Closing point.

So adding duration changes overlap (that increases overlap) as does reducing duration (decreases overlap).

As the LSA gets tighter you can see on a graph that the overlap triangle gets taller. That means that the valves at overlap are open further.

If you spread the LSA out the overlap triangle will get shorter because the valves are not off their respective seats as much.

All of that dictates (along with intake valve closing) idle vacuum, it has some effect on minimum idle speed and it affects how well the engine breathes.

It should be clear that (especially at relatively low lifts like we have at overlap) valves that are open further will flow more air. That’s pretty rudimentary. Since that is the case, and since decreasing the LSA causes the valves to be open further, and being open further they flow more air.

If you have the intake valve closing correct then you’ll move more air/fuel into the cylinder at overlap, and getting the inlet charge moving sooner and moving more air/fuel you’ll make more power.

It’s about getting the air column moving and trapping the most of it you can at intake valve closing.

I hope this makes some sense.
 
If you have a 110 or a 114 lsa camshaft, the intake closing point when installed straight up (110 and 114) is earlier on the 110 all else being equal. If you compress a taller cylinder, the pressure should be higher.

A 106 will close even earlier, more cylinder pressure.
 
Sure it matters. It doesn't matter "near as much" though for a 100% street car. You start getting into dual purpose and race only stuff, then is when the biggest differences occur.


If it’s a 100% street car then why not use an OE cam.

I’ve posted this before but I’ll do it again.

The 110 LSA became the defacto LSA for a couple of reasons.

The number one being it’s easier to fit a 110 LSA on the cores. You get below 108 or over 112 and you cut the number of useable cores by more than half.

Claiming any LSA works across all engine families is just nonsense.

If you want factory performance use factory parts.

If you can’t deal with a tight LSA because it can’t be made to idle that means the end user needs to learn to tune.

As I said earlier even Pro Stock would use much tighter LSA’s but they do not because the power gains from the tighter LSA’s do not make up for the loss of combustion efficiency that happens when you need deep valve notches in the pistons for the tighter LSA, and probably the additional dome on the piston to get the compression ratio back up from the deeper notches.

Lots of guys love to use Pro Stock as an example of wide LSA’s and big power but they’d be incorrect as to why it’s done.

Edit: I forgot to say again that compression ratio (both calculated and effective) is critical to not only LSA but to all cam timing events. Low compression and wide LSA’s don’t play well together.
 
That is kind of my point. Many aren't going to spend much time if any near 5500 rpm. Whats the intended use?
Cams like many things are compromises. What compromises are you willing to make? There is no perfect cam that gives you everything not to say you won't be very happy with a properly selected cam if you are honest about your requirements.
4.10s and a 3000 stall lots of time@5500 6000k
my comp 268 454 110 puts the stock 340 cam to shame
114 is pos in a 360 for his application
 
If it’s a 100% street car then why not use an OE cam.

I’ve posted this before but I’ll do it again.

The 110 LSA became the defacto LSA for a couple of reasons.

The number one being it’s easier to fit a 110 LSA on the cores. You get below 108 or over 112 and you cut the number of useable cores by more than half.

Claiming any LSA works across all engine families is just nonsense.

If you want factory performance use factory parts.

If you can’t deal with a tight LSA because it can’t be made to idle that means the end user needs to learn to tune.

As I said earlier even Pro Stock would use much tighter LSA’s but they do not because the power gains from the tighter LSA’s do not make up for the loss of combustion efficiency that happens when you need deep valve notches in the pistons for the tighter LSA, and probably the additional dome on the piston to get the compression ratio back up from the deeper notches.

Lots of guys love to use Pro Stock as an example of wide LSA’s and big power but they’d be incorrect as to why it’s done.

Edit: I forgot to say again that compression ratio (both calculated and effective) is critical to not only LSA but to all cam timing events. Low compression and wide LSA’s don’t play well together.
I would say "closer" to an OE cam than something for race performance, yeah. You said in another post that there were no performance cams from the factory and that's just ignorant. There were factory performance cams, which is a taller and harder order than what you are laying out here. Anyone can spec out a balls out race cam. Those factory engineers were smarter than given credit for. They had to both design cams that were "better" than in grandma's car but still had a good amount of driveability. They did a pretty good job at it, too. Going strictly by race standards, I pretty much agree with all you're saying. But not many people want to drive that on the street all the time.
 
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4.10s and a 3000 stall lots of time@5500 6000k
my comp 268 454 110 puts the stock 340 cam to shame
114 is pos in a 360 for his application
I never said he should use the 340 cam or a cam with 114 LSA but everybody knows more than a guy who does cams for a living.
 
Every dog on an engine that I have seen had too much duration, too narrow an LSA for the compression, etc. and not the other way around. Just saying.
 
I'm not a cam expert, but I have run a few combos that I can talk about. What I know is;
Compression cannot begin until the intake is closed.
The sooner you close it, the sooner compression can start, and all things being equal, the end Cranking Pressure will be higher.
The LSA has NOTHING to do with making pressure.
The ICA in a given engine, is what determines the pressure.
The LSA is what ballparks how soon you can close the intake, and not screw up the PowerStroke.
But, if you have a HIGH SCR, and do not need to close the intake so soon, then you can lengthen the intake stroke for more power. Eventually the longer intake stroke will end up going deep into the exhaust stroke on overlap, which will cause your engine to run rough, which will reduce your power at idle and points beyond, which will require a higher idle speed to overcome, and a higher stall to find power. And so, your power peak is driven ever higher up in the rpm band; requiring more attention to the top end parts to prevent the engine from destroying itself.
There is NOTHING inherently wrong with a 292/292/108 cam. If you build the engine around it, and, IMO, run an automatic with a higher than stock stall.
If you have a manual trans with street gears of 3.55s or less, Good Luck trynta drive slowly, with a very late closing intake, cuz at typical street timing, the engine is NOT gonna like idling at less than ~700, which with 3.55s and a 2.66Low gear, is about 6mph.
Whereas with a hi-stalled auto, you can thump along at say 2mph. and besides that, how long is that 292 rocker gear gonna last at under 700 rpm?
So you know, the 292 is fine for the correctly built engine and powertrain.
Whereas, in those days, 3.55s were my hi-limit. So I pulled it and sold it to a budding young racer, who reported that he loved it.

The point is that, the LSA is a tool to be used to match a particular cam, to a particular engine, and/or application, and/or to a lesser extent, the combo.
IMO;
Since this is sorta backwards for most of us, it is cheaper and easier, to choose a suitable cam, and then build the engine and combo to maximize it.
But if your engine is already built, and is an oddity, then perhaps the cam will also have to be odd.
But if your engine is still in the planning stages, think about this; the compression cycle only has to be just long enough to get the pressure up to where you want it to be. If your Scr is gonna be 8/1 then yur gonna need a lot of compression degrees to get to optimum pressure. But if yur ar 12/1 Scr, you can easily overshoot the pressure that pumpgas can support. So in both cases, the ICA has to be adjusted to make it work...... optimally without detonation. and if the Ica is optimized, it may require the LSA to be changed as well.
So then
IMO,
For a NA-streeter, it's hard to take an LSA number, and say that this is what's best, cuz invariably it will be difficult or expensive to build an engine to that so-called "best" number. I mean inside the accepted norms of say 106 to 112.
Furthermore, there is a plethora of cams in the 108>110 window, such that there should not be a reason to go outside it.
I'd be willing to bet that just about every performance street cam will have or be able to be adjusted to, an Ica of 58 to 68 degrees. Why is that? Because 58* works reasonably well in lo-compression engine, and 68* works reasonably well in a hi-compression street engine.
Furthermore, that small window, leads to a similar sized window on the power stroke from ~104 to maybe 112*, which then sorta sets the exhaust degrees. and again, the LSA adjusts the overlap for more power over the nose, or more torque/fuel-economy.
That leads to the bulk of the differences being in the overlap.

As an aside;
If you know the exact Scr of your engine, and are willing to commit to a certain grade of fuel, and are not gonna run an octane booster, then, it is possible to calculate an ICA, within a few degrees, to optimize your cylinder pressure for the chosen fuel.
From there, you can bias the Power stroke, from power to economy. and
from there, you can usually chose an amount of overlap that you are willing to tolerate in the rpm zone that your engine is gonna spend the bulk of it's time.
Once those three have been established whatever is left over from the "four cycles plus overlap", gets divided between intake and exhaust. As long as this is done reasonably accurately with regards to choosing the overlap, you'll always get a pretty good cam.
Once all those numbers are settled, the LSA will come out of it as a matter of math. If it falls in the window of 106 to 112, the cam will be good. If it doesn't, it's probably because you got greedy on the overlap.
Here's an example
Suppose you have determined that with your Scr, you want an Ica of 64* leaving the compression at 116*, and
you want some economy, so you choose a power stroke of 111*, and
You're thinking that overlap of 53* is about right. Okay so
116 +111 +53 = 280.
The total number of degrees for all this to happen is 720 (two revolutions) plus the 53 overlap is 773. Subtracting the 280, we get 493 for intake plus exhaust. Lets say we install that at ~split-overlap, so 26* goes to intake and 27* to exhaust.
Ok then 360(one revolution), plus 26*, and less 116 to compression leaves 270 for intake duration. Exhaust thus has to be 360+27, less 111=276.
The Lsa thus, by the math is (270+276)/2 less the overlap, and the result divided by 2 equals ...... 110, which is a good number, so there you have it; the perfect cam for the three parameters that you choose, namely compression, power, and overlap.
Had you chosen any other number or numbers, this would spit out a different cam. Now all you gotta do is find one. lol. In this case, the picken's are easy. But it doesn't always work out that way. I used numbers for which I already knew the results, cuz that is how I came to choosing my cam.
Lets do another one for which I have no idea how it will turn out.
lets say you have a low-compression engine and 58* gets you decent cylinder pressure, which is 180 less 58= 122* of compression. and,
you don't care much about fuel economy, so say 105* of Power, and you get real greedy on the overlap, say 70*.
OK then the total amount of time available measured in degrees is 720+70=790 degrees.
From that we subtract (122+105+70)= 297 leaving 493 for intake plus exhaust. To put that in at split overlap, I have to give half of 70 to intake and half to exhaust. Thus intake will be (360+35) less 122= 273 intake duration, and
Exhaust will be (360+35) less 105=290, and
the Lsa will be, (273+290)/2 less 70, and lastly divided by 2= 105.75 .. Wow, that just missed it into the window (106 to 112), But look, the exhaust duration is out of sync with the intake. Typically, you will not find a cam with more than 8* split, nor is there any need to go more........ So in this case, the result is a poor cam choice. Your options are more intake duration, less exhaust duration, and/or less overlap If you opt for changing the cam-timing, you will change your pressure .
FYI
What I have discovered is a relationship between exhaust duration added to power duration, that likes to be around 225>230 for a decent pressure streeter; To the highside for a low compression engine and can be towards the low side if a hi-Scr design.
Once you go below 220, fuel-economy rapidly disappears.
Once you go below 210, you are approaching race-car territory
No matter what, on a streeter, you want the Power cycle to have at least, IMO, 104*, cuz any less than this is wasting gas right out the tailpipe, and there is nothing you can do about it. I'm currently at 106, and my Barracuda was retired from DD at 111.
Lets say your pockets are deeper than mine, and you're ok with 104* Power. And you have plenty of Scr, so yur looking at maybe 113* of compression. Added together that make 217, and, since this is below 220, I can guarantee that this combo will be hard on gas.
I don't care what cam you pick, if the .008 advertised Compression plus Power are less than 220, she will be hard on gas, UNLESS,
you are building a specific-purpose engine that allows more Power duration than is typical.
At the ever-rising cost of fuel today, I recommend the Power duration not be less than ~108 degrees, and make sure the ignition Timing starts soon enough for the load and rpm.
This means that the Compression degrees will be short, and so the only cure for that is a higher SCR.

Happy HotRodding

PS, I know this post got long, and some of the old guys will roll their eyes, and azzhole comments will invariably follow. But this post is not for them, it's for you. I hope you get out of it what you need.
 
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I never said he should use the 340 cam or a cam with 114 LSA but everybody knows more than a guy who does cams for a living.
I sure as hell don't know more, but what I DO know is what I WANT for a build and I know which cam to choose to give me that. Might I leave something on the table? Probably, but I don't care.
 
.... Might I leave something on the table? Probably, but I don't care.
Thats exactly my thought. I'm not looking for the most hp I can afford and I don't need to extract the last possible 5 hp at 6500rpm. I put a repro 340 cam in my car because that is what I wanted. Sure I could of bought an XE268 or something similar and maximized hp if you believe what you read. Perhaps the valve train would be noisy too. I don't know. I've built engines where I tried to get the most out of them. Been there and done that. There is a reason cam mfgs often recommend milder cams (milder than what you think you want) for the street and that is because they know what most people will be happier with in the end.

ps skipping is harder than it looks
 
I'm not a cam expert, but I have run a few combos that I can talk about. What I know is;
Compression cannot begin until the intake is closed.
The sooner you close it, the sooner compression can start, and all things being equal, the end Cranking Pressure will be higher.
The LSA has NOTHING to do with making pressure.
The ICA in a given engine, is what determines the pressure.
The LSA is what ballparks how soon you can close the intake, and not screw up the PowerStroke.
But, if you have a HIGH SCR, and do not need to close the intake so soon, then you can lengthen the intake stroke for more power. Eventually the longer intake stroke will end up going deep into the exhaust stroke on overlap, which will cause your engine to run rough, which will reduce your power at idle and points beyond, which will require a higher idle speed to overcome, and a higher stall to find power. And so, your power peak is driven ever higher up in the rpm band; requiring more attention to the top end parts to prevent the engine from destroying itself.
There is NOTHING inherently wrong with a 292/292/108 cam. If you build the engine around it, and, IMO, run an automatic with a higher than stock stall.
If you have a manual trans with street gears of 3.55s or less, Good Luck trynta drive slowly, with a very late closing intake, cuz at typical street timing, the engine is NOT gonna like idling at less than ~700, which with 3.55s and a 2.66Low gear, is about 6mph.
Whereas with a hi-stalled auto, you can thump along at say 2mph. and besides that, how long is that 292 rocker gear gonna last at under 700 rpm?
So you know, the 292 is fine for the correctly built engine and powertrain.
Whereas, in those days, 3.55s were my hi-limit. So I pulled it and sold it to a budding young racer, who reported that he loved it.

The point is that, the LSA is a tool to be used to match a particular cam, to a particular engine, and/or application, and/or to a lesser extent, the combo.
IMO;
Since this is sorta backwards for most of us, it is cheaper and easier, to choose a suitable cam, and then build the engine and combo to maximize it.
But if your engine is already built, and is an oddity, then perhaps the cam will also have to be odd.
But if your engine is still in the planning stages, think about this; the compression cycle only has to be just long enough to get the pressure up to where you want it to be. If your Scr is gonna be 8/1 then yur gonna need a lot of compression degrees to get to optimum pressure. But if yur ar 12/1 Scr, you can easily overshoot the pressure that pumpgas can support. So in both cases, the ICA has to be adjusted to make it work...... optimally without detonation. and if the Ica is optimized, it may require the LSA to be changed as well.
So then
IMO,
For a NA-streeter, it's hard to take an LSA number, and say that this is what's best, cuz invariably it will be difficult or expensive to build an engine to that so-called "best" number. I mean inside the accepted norms of say 106 to 112.
Furthermore, there is a plethora of cams in the 108>110 window, such that there should not be a reason to go outside it.
I'd be willing to bet that just about every performance street cam will have or be able to be adjusted to, an Ica of 58 to 68 degrees. Why is that? Because 58* works reasonably well in lo-compression engine, and 68* works reasonably well in a hi-compression street engine.
Furthermore, that small window, leads to a similar sized window on the power stroke from ~104 to maybe 112*, which then sorta sets the exhaust degrees. and again, the LSA adjusts the overlap for more power over the nose, or more torque/fuel-economy.
That leads to the bulk of the differences being in the overlap.

As an aside;
If you know the exact Scr of your engine, and are willing to commit to a certain grade of fuel, and are not gonna run an octane booster, then, it is possible to calculate an ICA, within a few degrees, to optimize your cylinder pressure for the chosen fuel.
From there, you can bias the Power stroke, from power to economy. and
from there, you can usually chose an amount of overlap that you are willing to tolerate in the rpm zone that your engine is gonna spend the bulk of it's time.
Once those three have been established whatever is left over from the "four cycles plus overlap", gets divided between intake and exhaust. As long as this is done reasonably accurately with regards to choosing the overlap, you'll always get a pretty good cam.
Once all those numbers are settled, the LSA will come out of it as a matter of math. If it falls in the window of 106 to 112, the cam will be good. If it doesn't, it's probably because you got greedy on the overlap.
Here's an example
Suppose you have determined that with your Scr, you want an Ica of 64* leaving the compression at 116*, and
you want some economy, so you choose a power stroke of 111*, and
You're thinking that overlap of 53* is about right. Okay so
116 +111 +53 = 280.
The total number of degrees for all this to happen is 720 (two revolutions) plus the 53 overlap is 773. Subtracting the 280, we get 493 for intake plus exhaust. Lets say we install that at ~split-overlap, so 26* goes to intake and 27* to exhaust.
Ok then 360(one revolution), plus 26*, and less 116 to compression leaves 270 for intake duration. Exhaust thus has to be 360+27, less 111=276.
The Lsa thus, by the math is (270+276)/2 less the overlap, and the result divided by 2 equals ...... 110, which is a good number, so there you have it; the perfect cam for the three parameters that you choose, namely compression, power, and overlap.
Had you chosen any other number or numbers, this would spit out a different cam. Now all you gotta do is find one. lol. In this case, the picken's are easy. But it doesn't always work out that way. I used numbers for which I already knew the results, cuz that is how I came to choosing my cam.
Lets do another one for which I have no idea how it will turn out.
lets say you have a low-compression engine and 58* gets you decent cylinder pressure, which is 180 less 58= 122* of compression. and,
you don't care much about fuel economy, so say 105* of Power, and you get real greedy on the overlap, say 70*.
OK then the total amount of time available measured in degrees is 720+70=790 degrees.
From that we subtract (122+105+70)= 297 leaving 493 for intake plus exhaust. To put that in at split overlap, I have to give half of 70 to intake and half to exhaust. Thus intake will be (360+35) less 122= 273 intake duration, and
Exhaust will be (360+35) less 105=290, and
the Lsa will be, (273+290)/2 less 70, and lastly divided by 2= 105.75 .. Wow, that just missed it into the window (106 to 112), But look, the exhaust duration is out of sync with the intake. Typically, you will not find a cam with more than 8* split, nor is there any need to go more........ So in this case, the result is a poor cam choice. Your options are more intake duration, less exhaust duration, and/or less overlap If you opt for changing the cam-timing, you will change your pressure .
FYI
What I have discovered is a relationship between exhaust duration added to power duration, that likes to be around 225>230 for a decent pressure streeter; To the highside for a low compression engine and can be towards the low side if a hi-Scr design.
Once you go below 220, fuel-economy rapidly disappears.
Once you go below 210, you are approaching race-car territory
No matter what, on a streeter, you want the Power cycle to have at least, IMO, 104*, cuz any less than this is wasting gas right out the tailpipe, and there is nothing you can do about it. I'm currently at 106, and my Barracuda was retired from DD at 111.
Lets say your pockets are deeper than mine, and you're ok with 104* Power. And you have plenty of Scr, so yur looking at maybe 113* of compression. Added together that make 217, and, since this is below 220, I can guarantee that this combo will be hard on gas.
I don't care what cam you pick, if the .008 advertised Compression plus Power are less than 220, she will be hard on gas, UNLESS,
you are building a specific-purpose engine that allows more Power duration than is typical.
At the ever-rising cost of fuel today, I recommend the Power duration not be less than ~108 degrees, and make sure the ignition Timing starts soon enough for the load and rpm.
This means that the Compression degrees will be short, and so the only cure for that is a higher SCR.

Happy HotRodding

PS, I know this post got long, and some of the old guys will roll their eyes, and azzhole comments will invariably follow. But this post is not for them, it's for you. I hope you get out of it what you need.


How about cliff notes?
 
Thats exactly my thought. I'm not looking for the most hp I can afford and I don't need to extract the last possible 5 hp at 6500rpm. I put a repro 340 cam in my car because that is what I wanted. Sure I could of bought an XE268 or something similar and maximized hp if you believe what you read. Perhaps the valve train would be noisy too. I don't know. I've built engines where I tried to get the most out of them. Been there and done that. There is a reason cam mfgs often recommend milder cams (milder than what you think you want) for the street and that is because they know what most people will be happier with in the end.

ps skipping is harder than it


I get this^^^. My point is a 114 LSA doesn’t have to drive beater than a 108.

That’s tuning issues.
 
The greyed out area is overlap, if you look the two main specs for overlap is intake valve opening and exhaust valve closing, the later has a huge effect on cylinder pressure.

As you can see tightening the lsa and or increasing duration will increase overlap by moving IVO and EVC points.

We generally talk in duration lsa lift etc.. But what is vaguely inferred by that is the valve events.

1732058824360.png
 
The greyed out area is overlap, if you look the two main specs for overlap is intake valve opening and exhaust valve closing, the later which has a huge effect on cylinder pressure.

As you can see tightening the lsa and or increasing duration will increase overlap by moving IVO and EVC points.

We generally talk in duration lsa lift etc.. But what is vaguely inferred by that is the valve events.
That's a nice diagram depicting how cam timing events are related.
 
I never said he should use the 340 cam or a cam with 114 LSA but everybody knows more than a guy who does cams for a living.

He forgot to mention that it was for a potential blower motor in the original post. That little tidbit is really important. LMAO

Leaving it out, with the recommended LSA, raises lot of questions from people that have been building engines for 4 decades+. You don't have to cut cams for a living to get a whiff that something doesn't smell right.
Tell me that you are putting a hairdryer or blower on an engine and my suggestion for LSA would be VASTLY different from an NA set up. Common sense there... not really common anymore.

Ken knows what he's doing, then the magic statement shows up. White knighting needn't be happening. :)

Have fun with it.
 
See post 17. The OP didn’t say blower at first.

Again, I’m not running a 114 LSA on anything under 14:1.

I don’t know it all but I sure as **** know better than that.

I put LSA to the test a few years back
My first W5 deal was slapping the heads onto an Eddie headed short block I was upgrading from.
11.5 compression flattop deal, 260/266 597/615 107 LSA cam. PHR did the cam. Flat tappet.
Car went 10.30’s like that.
Buddy at the time was/is a “ cam guru” who sells his own line of camshafts. He is way into wide LSA stuff.
He wanted me to swap to a cam he designed for ny deal, knowing exactly what I had going on.
It was 259/267 , similar lift as old one, but it was on a 112.
Took it to the track, all the incrementals were off, except the mph was very close.
Car never again got even in the 10.40’s, before I blew it up( Eagle cast crank) at the tail end of that season.
The 112 cam was like a shot of novacaine to how the car left. Doggy.
I suspect if I had WAY more compression, good bit more vert, and car wasn’t as heavy, the cam might have shined a bit.
But since then, everything I have run was on either 106 or 108.
No wide in my ride :realcrazy:
 
One thing people forget when saying you generally need mid range (rpm) power, is that one of the ways of building good mid range is with good top end power. Eg. below , a 245 hp 2 bbl 350 to a 500+ hp one, as you can see all the built engines made great mid range power 3000-5000 rpms. Even the 500+ hp is making way more than the 2bbl turd :)

1732063856876.png
 
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