Cam for a 318

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Dan the man

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For the 318, would the lunati 701 be a good choice for what I'm wanting to do or the 700? I used a compression ratio calculator put in all the required information and it said that I would have a 9.40:1 CR. Is that a good compression ratio for either 1 of those cams? I don't want to have to back off the ignition timing because the cam isn't matched to the cam.
 
Dan the man said:
For the 318, would the lunati 701 be a good choice for what I'm wanting to do or the 700? I used a compression ratio calculator put in all the required information and it said that I would have a 9.40:1 CR. Is that a good compression ratio for either 1 of those cams? I don't want to have to back off the ignition timing because the cam isn't matched to the cam.
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I meant compression ratio
 
That cam looks like suck to me. No lift, wide LSA in a lower compression engine
 
Dan the man said:
For the 318, would the lunati 701 be a good choice for what I'm wanting to do or the 700? I used a compression ratio calculator put in all the required information and it said that I would have a 9.40:1 CR. Is that a good compression ratio for either 1 of those cams? I don't want to have to back off the ignition timing because the cam isn't matched to the cam.
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Send a PM to RustyRatRod or318willrun, both those guys have a wealth of experience on 318s there are many others I imagine but those two come to mind pretty rapidly.
 
Not near enough info.
  • What converter?
  • What gears?
  • What heads?
  • Headers or manifolds?
  • Intended use? (pickup for haulin' wood? Maxi van haulin' 15 ppl? Or a gutted Duster for drag racing?) Huge, HUGE difference.
But, given what you given us..... when deciding between two cams, go with the smaller one.
 
:popcorn:

Waiting for the .600 lift post and the "just build a 360" post.
 
THe off the shelf stuff is a little limited.

BAsed on what you were looking at, I like this cam.

Howards Cams 713175-10
[email protected], .525, 110LSA.

Still not what i'd like to see in there, but short of having a custom cam made, it's the best of what I saw available.
 
over .500 lift, really?
 
YY1 said:
over .500 lift, really?
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yep, that's just me. There is no drawback to lift and no reason not to open a valve at least .500.

Look at any roller cam that is comparable to a racer brown, same duration, same LSA, WAY more lift.

Why would you not want to open the valve?

Ex. [email protected], .509 lift, 108 LSA. vs. [email protected], .650 lift, 108 LSA.
 
Guess we need to clarify "for what I'm wanting to do" from the OP.
 
roccodart440 said:
yep, that's just me. There is no drawback to lift and no reason not to open a valve at least .500.

Look at any roller cam that is comparable to a racer brown, same duration, same LSA, WAY more lift.

Why would you not want to open the valve?

Ex. [email protected], .509 lift, 108 LSA. vs. [email protected], .650 lift, 108 LSA.
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If the head doesn't flow good air at a higher lift no need to open it that far IMO. I did not sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night either fwiw.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I didn't even look at the LSA. Yeah, I would choose something tighter. 108....106 even.
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Here's what I've thought about doing to the 318. 600 cfm eddy, performer rpm intake, speedmaster cylinder heads with 170cc intake runner's with 1.88 / 1.600 valve's with a comp valve job and back cut the valve's. KB pistons at zero deck, machine shop recommends cutting the deck surface of 0.010" for the new heads. 0.039" headgasket, putting this information into a compression ratio calculator and it gives a 9.40:1 cr. What cam and converter would you recommend for my combination? Gear ratio would be 3.55. Am I going in the right direction for what I'm wanting to do? Back in the day we all had cams, 4 barrel carburetor and headers and we thought that we had race cars. I'm wanting the combination to work together for the build. Thanks
 
Dan the man said:
Here's what I've thought about doing to the 318. 600 cfm eddy, performer rpm intake, speedmaster cylinder heads with 170cc intake runner's with 1.88 / 1.600 valve's with a comp valve job and back cut the valve's. KB pistons at zero deck, machine shop recommends cutting the deck surface of 0.010" for the new heads. 0.039" headgasket, putting this information into a compression ratio calculator and it gives a 9.40:1 cr. What cam and converter would you recommend for my combination? Gear ratio would be 3.55. Am I going in the right direction for what I'm wanting to do? Back in the day we all had cams, 4 barrel carburetor and headers and we thought that we had race cars. I'm wanting the combination to work together for the build. Thanks
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Convertor is determined by RPM at peak torque. Ideally you'll buy a quality custom convertor that flashes 500RPM over peak torque.

I still don't waver on my cam recommendation from earlier.
 
roccodart440 said:
Convertor is determined by RPM at peak torque. Ideally you'll buy a quality custom convertor that flashes 500RPM over peak torque.

I still don't waver on my cam recommendation from earlier.
Click to expand...
Would I have to worry about coil bind with that lift, ptv clearance
 
Dan the man said:
Here's what I've thought about doing to the 318. 600 cfm eddy, performer rpm intake, speedmaster cylinder heads with 170cc intake runner's with 1.88 / 1.600 valve's with a comp valve job and back cut the valve's. KB pistons at zero deck, machine shop recommends cutting the deck surface of 0.010" for the new heads. 0.039" headgasket, putting this information into a compression ratio calculator and it gives a 9.40:1 cr. What cam and converter would you recommend for my combination? Gear ratio would be 3.55. Am I going in the right direction for what I'm wanting to do? Back in the day we all had cams, 4 barrel carburetor and headers and we thought that we had race cars. I'm wanting the combination to work together for the build. Thanks
Click to expand...


You’ll be cutting more than .010 off the deck to get it to zero. Is there a SM head with a 1.88 valve? It’s hard to go down that far in valve size and get the valve job right.
 
Dan the man said:
Would I have to worry about coil bind with that lift, ptv clearance
Click to expand...


Depends on the heads if you have coil bind, but highly doubtful you will hit coil bind with that low lift number. You always check p/v. Always. Like degreeing a cam. Always do it.
 
Rat Bastid said:
You’ll be cutting more than .010 off the deck to get it to zero. Is there a SM head with a 1.88 valve? It’s hard to go down that far in valve size and get the valve job right.
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Pistons are advertised at being 0.012 below the surface, so wouldn't a 0.012" cut do it? I'm buying the heads bare, wouldn't the value seats be uncut for a valve size?
 
Rat Bastid said:
You’ll be cutting more than .010 off the deck to get it to zero. Is there a SM head with a 1.88 valve? It’s hard to go down that far in valve size and get the valve job right.
Click to expand...
Are the 2.02 valve's to big for a 318? I don't want a valve to kill off the bottom end. I'm building my engine for throttle response and low to midrange torque and power
 
Rat Bastid said:
Depends on the heads if you have coil bind, but highly doubtful you will hit coil bind with that low lift number. You always check p/v. Always. Like degreeing a cam. Always do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks everybody for your help. I'm sure that I'm asking dumb questions but honestly, I don't have a lot of experience with performance engines. We always did whatever and how it ran we were stuck with. I'm wanting a cruiser that accelerates good, has decent performance. If I have to run more cam and or compression then that's what I have to do.
 
Another cam question, I've seen cam grinds with more lift on the intake side and these are for na engines, I always thought that there should be more lift and duration on the exhaust side?
 
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