Cam plug leaking. Removal and replacement?

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Got my engine out to get heads ported and finally locate an annoying leak. Expected to find the rear main seal or rear of the oil pan leaking, but instead I found the cam plug was actively dripping, even from just tipping the engine.
Is there anything more to replacing it than carefully tapping it out from the lifter valley? Any good tips for buying and installing a replacement?

I don't think my rear main or oil pan gasket is leaking, but I'd like to be sure before the engine goes back in.
Short of putting the engine on a run stand or dyno, is there any reliable way to test? Would a drill and priming rod be able to simulate the 70lbs this engine has cold? Once warmed up it seems to stay closer to 60 at 3000rpm, not sure if it goes higher when I get on it, at those times I have my hands full and eyes on the road.
The block oil passages have been opened up as suggested by Hensley Performance, and the pump is a M72HV. The filter plate has been drilled with 4 extra holes. Not sure what the bearing clearances are, as my friend who assembled the long block passed away and I can't ask him.
 
Well, rather than trying to reseat the plug a new one is like, IDK, A $1? Reseat the new one and rtv around it on both sides very neatly.
 
Cam plugs are a dished plug and not like a core plug with shoulders like goes in your coolant passages. Check out post#26 in my rebuild thread. 273 Build
 
B3422w5 said:
Get a new one, make sure everything is clean and dry, and use anerobic sealer on it. Works great.
Click to expand...
Sorry but no. Anerobic sealer sets up in the absence of air like between 2 machined surfaces. A small bead of silicone will do the trick and seat the plug properly.
 
Check the block where the plug seats, I had one that some hack pounded a chisel or screw driver into it to remove the old one and put a gouge in the block. After cleaning up the high spots I got it to seal with gray RTV. I usually just use copper coat on the block and the plug and pound it in, never had a leak.
 
What year of a block are you working with? There's two styles, one like what toolmanmike posted (for use in an early design block) and a later design that's a backwards double folded looking style. I'll go get one if pic is needed. The first style can leak if not installed properly, but the second style I've never seen leak. Sadly it can't be used in the first designs place.
 
1972 360 block.
Looks like I can't just punch it out from the backside with the cam so close. Any tips?

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Here's a bunch of pics I took as I pulled it apart. I noticed scratches in the 6 o'clock position in most of the bores. Piston slap?
See anything I should worry about?

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Well there you go! Who put that cam plug in? That's the second design I'm talking about. BUT IT'S INSTALLED BACKWARDS!!
 
The machine shop that did the cam bearings. Russell Automotive in Hampton, GA...
 
Spank him! Now because it's in backwards that will make it easier to remove. The lip edge of the cup is somewhat rounded. Take a LARGE flat blade screwdriver or a pry bar and give it a swat (the pry bar) at a almost vertical angle, to try and create a good "kink" in that exposed lip of the cup and at the same time try and leaver it out with the pry bar.
 
Will do. Got a part # for the correct plug for a 1972 block, by chance?
 
Max1196 said:
Well there you go! Who put that cam plug in? That's the second design I'm talking about. BUT IT'S INSTALLED BACKWARDS!!
Click to expand...


Damn sure is in backwards.
The good news is that's an easy, inexpensive fix.
The bad news is your tune up is pig rich everywhere.
 
Individual part # is 96-1888CRT (this is a Qual Cast #) Or copy the# that's on it like YR said. Also got to agree with YR your running totally rich, you may even need to deglaze the cylinders to get rid of that "chromed finish look" because of the fuel wash!
 
Sure enough! moper Aren't you Mr. Observant. Good catch. Inboard head bolts may need more torque than factory setting, a better head gasket choice and a close check on ignition timing!
 
Nothing wrong with thathe head gasket!

It’s perfect wall art!

And a great reminder!!!!
 
toolmanmike said:
Sorry but no. Anerobic sealer sets up in the absence of air like between 2 machined surfaces. A small bead of silicone will do the trick and seat the plug properly.
Click to expand...

Was told to use it years ago by someone i trust. Its worked perfectly for me. Once the plug is in it gets no air, and dry’s/ seals perfectly
 
moper said:
Also assuming you're going to address the head gasket issues...
Click to expand...

Please elaborate on the head gasket.I thought something didn't look right, but it was getting late, and I didn't have time to examine them closely yet.
Like I said, my buddy Tim Morris (RIP) built the long block. I noticed some of the head bolts seemed like they broke loose too easy.

The rich condition is probably mostly from choke issues I have had the last couple weeks. I got the choke all out of whack one morning and fought with it the week I had to drive the car to work.
Could it build up that much carbon from that?
Do I really need to tear it all the way down and deglaze?
The cylinders were wiped down before the pics, I had coolant dribble in a few, and wiped it up real quick.

Thanks for the help guys!

Roy, I will pm you. Double Thanks for the offer!
 
I'm not liking the deck prep. Looks like 80g scratch on a da. Maybe just the way I'm looking at it. This started with a fresh bore?
 
GeorgeH said:
I'm not liking the deck prep. Looks like 80g scratch on a da. Maybe just the way I'm looking at it. This started with a fresh bore?
Click to expand...
Yep. Dixie Performance in Ga.
Square decked, bored and honed with torque plates.Engine has about 3000mi on it since.
 
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