Can I get a /6 in the 7's?

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Jay Anderson

Jay Anderson

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68 Valliant 904 trans with 9" Versailles rear. What combo will put me in the 7's in the 1/8. Should I just yank it and go with a v8?
 
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymR_mkBkw04"]11 second turbo valiant slant 6 - YouTube[/ame]

turbo
 
Sure! How many bags of money do you have to throw at it?
Speed costs and the adage of cubes rule except power adders
 
a nice turbo setup with a 2step should get you off the line and through the traps in the 7 second range. could probably do it with spray but it would probably last longer with the turbo.

are you planning on building a motor or just seeing what you can get out of the stock assembly?
 
instead of the turbo you could probably get it done with crazy high compression, custom cam and a crazy gear 4.xx-5. would also need to strip anything not completely necessary out of the car as well.
 
Swap a v8. This is coming from a slant guy.

Do you know how to modify and tune a blow thru carb?
How long do you want to spend tuning?
Do you like dealing with an engine that they dont make hardly any parts for?
Take a look at the number of fast /6s compared to the number of fast v8s. There is a reason for why people do things.
The slant isn't some performance secret. If you build a slant, its because you, for some reason, either LOVE the engine, or you want to be different so bad that you're willing to throw buckets of money at it.
Another thing to look at, look at how many people can tell you FROM EXPERIENCE how to build a fast slant.
How many people own slants that are actually sub-12 second cars?
How many people have turbo slants and don't constantly have problems with them?
Go find out what it takes to make a slant faster than a 318-2

Sorry to be Realistic Ronnie over here, I just felt the views needed to be equalized lol

Oh, and according to my calculations, if your car was stripped down to 2600lbs, and you made a true 300@the crank, you MIGHT just make it, everything else being absolutely perfect.
 
shave head .120, stud the head, cometic or copper head gasket, 4.xx gears, 4bbl, headers, biggest cam you can get and install 340 springs or better, heck install the valves too. Run a 4500 stall convertor and cal-tracs. Ask Madmax, put your car on a serious diet: remove all the seats except your Van seat. Get a collection of hole saws and start swiss-cheesing every piece of sheetmetal. Cut huge portions of roof and hood and door skin and pop rivet sheet aluminum to cover the holes. Run 6 lb rims with skinnies up front with 8" slicks out back. You are limited on the small runners of the head so build to suit those as they are the hardest to modify short of casting a new head. Hot-rodding a six is the same as a V8, just way harder to get parts and support. Big turbo would do it too, crazy compression not needed, just a good blow through carb or MS-EFI and a 5.0 TB. Go for it and post your progress.
 
I wouldn't call Brandon a troll, I think he has some good points...Especially if Jay would rather go without "turbo" boost.

Jay, do you want to run some big times, or do you want to bracket race & be competitive? The car is just a tool to get you where you want to go? While boost/Nos can turn some "fast" times, the're just bragging rights. If that's what you want, that's cool. If you want to bring home a trophy or two next season, go N/A and run the slant however fast it goes. If you want to go fast while accomplishing the same, do a solid N/A V8. Regardless of the speed/times, a mildish cam for the combo, along with a medium sized carb, and a well tuned timing curve, can be very consistent, and that's what puts "Wally's" on the mantle. :thumbrig:
 
I think if I was gonna do one, after reading everything I have, I would go with a belt driven supercharger of some sort. Be it a centrifugal style or a roots type. No lag, no ported head worries, no need for radical cam.
 
If you turbo the slant, make sure everybody knows it is a slant when you stomp them. For a better show, get a 90's turbo van. Search youtube for a guy in a 4 cyl Mopar van shaming a Camaro Z28.
 
It can be done, but as previously stated, it will take work and money. I have my 66 Valiant and 66 Cuda running low 8's in the 1/8, and low 13's in the 1/4. I don't have a lot of money in my cars, but I have been collecting parts for many, many years. There are many sources for new parts, but used part sources have dried up, and new prices are much more now. If your trying to prove a point with the slant, go for it. If you just want to run 7's, much easier with a V-8.
Another source for slant six info is www.slantsix.org
 
Some great responses! it's appreciated. My intention of building the /6 is just to try something different. I'm 56 and I've drag raced, owning a slew of dedicated race cars, from stock suspension, back halved and full tube cars. Still would like to bracket race some, and run around the street when I want to. I hate to remove a bunch from the car, like seats, etc. My plan was to use the stock crank, shot peen rods, forged pistons, mill and heavily port the head, Clifford intake and Holley carb. Cam will be aggressive. On top of this, I wanted to hit it with a 150 shot. Rear gear at least 4:11, with all Cal Trac gear. What can I realistically expect in the 1/8th with this combo?
 
I don't know what your budget is, but I don't think shot penning the rods is necessary. I am running totally stock rods. If the budget will handle it, I would consider the K-1 or Molner rods, with the Wiseco piston/ring package ( http://www.campbellenterprises.com/slant-six-6-performance-parts/wiseco-225-slant-6-six-pistons.php ) The most important thing is the cylinder head. You will need a good converter. What weight are you shooting for? The lighter the better. Really need to be under 3,000 lbs

We have a few slant six races in your general area. Crossville, Tn. Bristol, Tn. Wilkesborro, NC. Farmington, NC. Clay city, KY.
 
Jay, I'm in Murfreesboro, and I'm working on a Slant car that is pretty much like nothing I've seen done yet...and it will run the numbers you're looking for with an essentially stock engine. Swing by if you ever want to brainstorm this ****.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Tony, do you want to elaborate on that?

Please?

Thanks for any information...
Click to expand...


I'd really love to give up all the details, but I'd hate to see someone finish one of these before I get a chance to!
In essence, I've taken a standard A Body, cut it apart and reconfigured it in such a way that:
A It's still a full fendered, full sized car
B Is completely streetable
C Will not appear radically different than a stocker
D Uses 100% regular production body, engine, driveline and suspension parts.
E WILL run an 11 second quarter with no power adders or aftermarket parts.
Ok, in addition, this is a car that anybody can duplicate at home using nothing but basic tools and a bunch of time.
There's nothing radical about the car itself, but the approach I'm using has never been applied to this sort of thing. It is a completely proven and time tested method of car building...AND, if I spilled all the beans, you'd be blown away at the simplicity of it all.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
I'd really love to give up all the details, but I'd hate to see someone finish one of these before I get a chance to!
In essence, I've taken a standard A Body, cut it apart and reconfigured it in such a way that:
A It's still a full fendered, full sized car
B Is completely streetable
C Will not appear radically different than a stocker
D Uses 100% regular production body, engine, driveline and suspension parts.
E WILL run an 11 second quarter with no power adders or aftermarket parts.
Ok, in addition, this is a car that anybody can duplicate at home using nothing but basic tools and a bunch of time.
There's nothing radical about the car itself, but the approach I'm using has never been applied to this sort of thing. It is a completely proven and time tested method of car building...AND, if I spilled all the beans, you'd be blown away at the simplicity of it all.
Click to expand...

so your putting 120hp into a vehicle that weights less then 1000lbs?
 
younggun2.0 said:
so your putting 120hp into a vehicle that weights less then 1000lbs?
Click to expand...

Close. It's actually more like 160 once all of the systems are optimized. Compression, porting, carb, intake and distributor work. Nothing radical, just typical race-prep attention to detail. Everything from the water pump impeller to the carb air horn is being massaged for maximum performance and minimum weight.
Weight...I've taken everything into account, INCLUDING me and the clothes I'll be wearing and come to 1425 ready to roll.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Close. It's actually more like 160 once all of the systems are optimized. Compression, porting, carb, intake and distributor work. Nothing radical, just typical race-prep attention to detail. Everything from the water pump impeller to the carb air horn is being massaged for maximum performance and minimum weight.
Weight...I've taken everything into account, INCLUDING me and the clothes I'll be wearing and come to 1425 ready to roll.
Click to expand...

are you writing up a build for this to post once its done? hopefully.
 
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