440outlawdart
Well-Known Member
are those mopar performance aluminum heads
Can I use B or C body manifolds fore better flow on my sleeper GTS?
- Thread starter Jeremiah (jd)
- Start date
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Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
440 source stealth heads. I need to have atock appearing heads with straight plugs for this deal.
I was in the attic searching for some parts a member needed when I found this:
I was in the attic searching for some parts a member needed when I found this:
If you use the B-body manifold, would you share the modifications needed to fit your application. TIA
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! I will take step by step pictures along the way.
Main shop bay was open so i scaled porky the gts this weekend:
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Driver side manifold was on the shop doorstep this afternoon! A sincere thanks goes out to Jim/fishmens67 for donating a very nice specimen. I will take some comparison pics when I get back out for "2nd shift" aftrr everybody goes to sleep. What can I say, vintage cast iron gets me excited.
I'm happy it got there in one piece.
Topless69
Well-Known Member
I love the Dart! I haven’t seen those Remingtons in decades, do they still sell them?
He's a good dude for sure. I'm likin what I'm seein! Lots of cool old school stuff. This things gonna haul the mail!
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Well..I tried to post pics from my phone with no luck. I'll try again here in a little while using my tablet. Comparing a b, c and a body manifolds is an eye opener for me as I never gave it much thought. I also put the 225hp jets in the kit for extra spice. Need to back off the pogressive settings to 60-70%. I will choose one or the other based on track temp and my level of insanity that day lol.
You all want to see some shots of the progressive setup? It's simple...pretty slick IMO.
You all want to see some shots of the progressive setup? It's simple...pretty slick IMO.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Nice car, I like the ruff look!
What are you running for a clutch, bell housing, and rear end (with ratio)?
I'm thinking about building a similar set up.
Thanks for the pictures etc!
What are you running for a clutch, bell housing, and rear end (with ratio)?
I'm thinking about building a similar set up.
Thanks for the pictures etc!
I have a few C & B body manifolds . I can pm you some pictures if you are still looking for some.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
The clutch is a borg&beck style 10.95" RAM Powergrip HD:
Powergrip HD Clutch Sets Archives - RAM Clutches
Everything they say in the description is true lol:
“strip/street” competition clutch system that can handle the rigors of weekend racing and spirited street driving. This system has the same components as standard POWERGRIP above with the exception that the disc friction surfaces are both sintered metallic. Sintered metallic provides a degree of slippage on vehicle launch to prevent the violent and uncontrollable engagement characteristics of paddle type metallic discs. This firm consistent engagement is easy to control. Some chatter is likely on engagement with rear gearing less than 3.73 in street applications. Each set includes the pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, and alignment tool unless otherwise noted. Use Powergrip HD for power levels to 650 horsepower, or lower powered vehicles that see frequent track duty."
The bell is a Quicktime 6073. If you use this a) the factory bb z bar pivots work and b) it needs a few modifications as follows 1) the clutch fork pivot folds up and 2) nuts should be welded to the back side of the pivot bracket to aide in keeping your sanity upon assembly.
Also verify the holes on the bell match the holes in the supplied block saver plate. DAMHIK on that and the pivot fork bracket.
Rear diff is the original 8.75, 742 housing with 3.23 gears. I added .100 to the clutch pack when I rebuilt the sure grip unit. A Dana 60 will replace it when the 499" deal goes in.
Any other q's feel free to ask. I love sharing and chopping up build plans and other gearhead data.
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Nice 361 ! 
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Nice 361 !
It idles a little rough! : D
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
do you still run the overcenter spring with that clutch?
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Yes sir, spring in place. The pp is rated at 2900lbs base which is totally opposite of the other cars I have ( 1200 lbs base sintered iron discs). The clutch tamer makes it work well. And don't be fooled by the IMO stupid high base pressure. It definitely slips moving out when you load it up. I can loosen it up with the clutch tamer enough that it will flare in every gear yet it never got away from the engine, even on nitrous. Mike at RAM clutches has been very helpful over the years and stands behind his products.
Did you get a good look at the manifold, any comparison to the others you have
Do you think the b-body manifold is going to work with your application ? 4sp
Do you think the b-body manifold is going to work with your application ? 4sp
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Long story short I took a test drive before it rained to test high gear (fixed!) and promptly tore the evil, confounded, black magic bewitched Quick Fuel carburetor apart when I got back to the shop. Metering blocks are in the mill as we speak lol. Finally moving the IFR's to the lower hole.
After I get the carb back on it's manifold comparo time.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Some manifood research pics:
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
The red primered manifold is a 67-68 c body. Comparing the design of the two by eye leads me to think the b manifold most likely flows significantly more over the C body version.
I measured from the rearmost exhaust bolt to the firewall and came up with about 2.75". The b body manifold is about 2.5" from the rear bolt hole centerline to the back of the casting so it is going to be tight. I considered cutting the b manifold off and the flange to tip the outlet inward and forward which would help (I think).
I measured from the rearmost exhaust bolt to the firewall and came up with about 2.75". The b body manifold is about 2.5" from the rear bolt hole centerline to the back of the casting so it is going to be tight. I considered cutting the b manifold off and the flange to tip the outlet inward and forward which would help (I think).
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Got a 40 ford in the shop for an AC install so the dart is back burner for the week...kinda lol
Any idea what width make the Dana? Slicks are 28x9 and I will run a DOT MT ET Street Bias 28x11.50 (essentially the same size, 11.50 is section width).
Any idea what width make the Dana? Slicks are 28x9 and I will run a DOT MT ET Street Bias 28x11.50 (essentially the same size, 11.50 is section width).
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Racing season....see you all in October!
Machineman63
Well-Known Member
Interested in the use of manifolds on my 440 project as well, how much horsepower will the b body HP manifolds support on a N/A engine?
anyone have some real world numbers?
anyone have some real world numbers?
PRH
Well-Known Member
Imo, wondering how much power “can be made” while retaining the manifolds is the wrong approach.
On a big cube high CR race combo(for FAST), they’ll support over 600hp.
But that isn’t relative to what most street guys are doing.
The question should be, can I make the power I want with my proposed build while retaining the ex manifolds?
If the expectations and the build plans are on the same page, you should be good.
On the other hand, If you’re trying to make 500hp+ on pump gas with a hyd cam and ex manifolds....... you’re probably going to be disappointed.
On a big cube high CR race combo(for FAST), they’ll support over 600hp.
But that isn’t relative to what most street guys are doing.
The question should be, can I make the power I want with my proposed build while retaining the ex manifolds?
If the expectations and the build plans are on the same page, you should be good.
On the other hand, If you’re trying to make 500hp+ on pump gas with a hyd cam and ex manifolds....... you’re probably going to be disappointed.
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