Can this be repaired?

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sydcuda

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I managed to crack the block on my 360 trying to remove the factory fitted upper oil galley plug (the idea being to install fittings directly into the block and do away with the factory oil line adaptor plate). The plug was in there so tight that burred the square allen head on the plug and eventually had to drill it and try an easy out, but the block cracked before it would move!

Could the cracked area be repaired by welding?

Or if not I'm thinking that perhaps I would grind the cracked area down and re-tap the galley, provided of course there is enough casting thickness in this area?

Failing either option I'll be looking for another block.

CIMG1896.JPG
 
about anything can be fixed just need the right person someone that knows what he (or she ) know what there doing i know a guy here in the states that welded 2 427 penski blocks when i say there were bad i mean BAD 1 had put a rod thru the block the guy had picked up all the parts of the block he could find took them to this guy and he welded them back ib the side of the block the same guy also had a 427 penski block that was broken in 1/2 he welded it back together and that was about 20 years ago the block that had the hole in the side is still in the car and running today
 
Cudahemi is right. If you can find a good welder that knows cast iron it can be welded. But another problem is if you don't know the guy well he may charge you as much or more than a bare block will cost you. Around me welders don't touch cast for under $100 because of the time involved in welding it. First the cracks have to be drilled out at each end to prevent further cracking and then the block heated up then welded then somehow very slowly cooled down. That's best done in an oven. As far as tapping it out bigger it looks like it's cracked really far from the hole and the raised support area is completely cracked. In my opinion just from the looks in the pics I wouldn't try tapping it out bigger. One other option you have and what I'd do is have it completely welded shut and use the large fitting in the center for the oil input from the filter as it goes to the same port as the damaged hole.
 
One other thing to think about is whether or not the crack goes inside the oil galley, that may be hard to determine and no welder can weld inside of the oil galley.

You may end up throwing good money towards bad and may be better to cut your loss and get another block.
 
Don,t take it to just anybody,plus you need to make sure you drill the very end of the crack then slightly v it out not much then apply filler material(rod)also area needs to be clean and free of oil,preheating with a large torch tip should take care of it,do not concentrate flame in one place slowly move it around area,after welding wrap it with an old welding jacket or cover with leather gloves allow it to cool slowly,after you can carefully tap it,Good luck,Sid.
 
It looks like that area was repaired previously. If that is the case this maybe an extension of previous damage, in which cases I would not risk using the block as there appears to be some extensive cracking that is not visble yet. Just don't know when it will let go.
 
It looks like that area was repaired previously. If that is the case this maybe an extension of previous damage, in which cases I would not risk using the block as there appears to be some extensive cracking that is not visble yet. Just don't know when it will let go.

I agree, there is something else going on here. It might be wise to investigate the area before sinking money into repairing a repair.
 
IMHO stick a fork in her, she's done. The prep work that has to be performed, as outlined above, is going to be lengthy especially to insure that all the oil in the cracks and for a distance of 6 inches all around is completely removed. Then there's the preheat and controlled cool down that if not done correctly will result in the inevitable recrack or "ping". I'd cut my losses and go get another block from the pick and pull. Someones allready attempted to weld up something, probably cracks, at both fitting bosses and besides you should be able to pick up an old 360 block for 200 bucks.

Terry
 
Thanks for your comments fellas, much appreciated. I'm going to try and get it welded up, the region where it is cracked is not a structural part of the block and it only needs to be strong enough to retap and hold a fitting. The "work" you see around the holes was done by me to clearance for the direct fittings into the block, so I dont think it's seen work there before...although that plug sure is in tight, as if something extremely strong is keeping it in there.

I'll give it a go anyway, and see whether it can be welded.

One lesson I've learned is never used an ezy out in a situation such as this, all the ezy out succeeded in doing was expanding the plug and causing the crack.
 
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