Car is in color!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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HemiPar

HemiPar

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Hey all. Good morning to everyone:wave:. Let me start by saying thanks to everyone for the advise that I have been given while working on my Swinger:director:. The day has finally come where I have the car in color\\:D/. My first paint job and I think I done a good job. No runs. I painted the jambs, engine bay, trunk is single stage Plum Crazy a few weeks ago. For the main body I used base/clear coat yesterday.
But there are a few problems with it. First is orange peel, so I will have to fix that next time. I will have to figure out what caused it. Any ideals?
Next and bigger bigger issue is THE FREAKING PAINT SHOP MIXED THE WRONG COLOR,,, WTFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF?? Instead of being Plum Crazy it is just purple. Check out the pics. Its like 3 shades to dark. It does not match the jambs at all.


Totally my fault, I used 2 different paint shops. First one was when I was working and got the paint near there. Now I am laid off and did not want to drive the 90 min to get the paint from them. So I used a shop closer to home.Now I can't go back till Monday and see what they can do for me. But I think I will end up making a 3 hour round trip to get paint for a reapint.

So this leads me to the next question. How should I go about repainting the car? I know I need to sand it down, but what grit do I use? How much do I need to sand? Just the clear off or all the way to the sealer? Damn-it I should be putting the car back together today but "NOOOOOO". It just makes me wanna :puke:
SO what ya'll think?
 

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They might have used a different variant of the color. Orange peel is cause by to low of air pressure and or gun control. For the most part if you put enough clear on the car u can sand with 1500to 2000 and buff it out.
As far as repainting the car sand it with wet sand it with 800 and gray scotch bright pad on everything u miss with the sand paper to knock all the shine off the panels. Then respray with base coat/clear. I'd put at least 3 good coats of clear so you can sand and buff out any imperfections.
 
Did you use a hardener in your clear coat ? and I think the air pressure you used though you gun was a bit low and it could be the brand clear and reducer you used.
What temperature reducer did you use ? and what was the temp when you painted it ?
Adding hardener to your last two coats always seemed to lay down better and is a must do.
How many coats of clear did you get put on will help a tech with what you need to do.
I have been there before and water sanded with 800 with two paint paddles "stir sticks" and put water in a spray bottle and sanded till it was flat, sand an area and use a new un used bondo spreader or squeegee to wipe dry to see if it is flat.
Look at your clear coat can and see how long you need to wait before doing any sanding, I do know the sooner you do it the easier it will sand, just don't do it to early!! you will see it building up on your sand paper and make scratches in your clear coat, so keep your sand paper clean and wrap some 800 around a paint paddle and keep turning the paddle to keep fresh paper on the side you are using.
A good paint tech will jump in here soon to help you along and may say to use different grain sand paper. So sorry to hear the bad news this morning for you, but it does happen to the best of them . You did say it's the wrong color,
 
If you plan on re spraying I would buy some 600 grit DA paper, DA the entire car then wet sand with some 800 and a hard block, Thats the quickest way. Otherwise start blocking the car.


Its probably best to buy all your paint at the same time so the same guy mixes it. The difference could also just be because one is single stage and the other is base-clear.
 
If you can take the orig can of paint to the closer paint shop....they may be able to reproduce the color you want. Good luck and by the way it looks great either way!! Good work...if I was younger I might tackle something like that
 
Thanks for the comments guys. I used Nason 2k clear and mid-temp activator. The temps here was 65-70 while applying the clear. Air was set at 45psi at the gun. What do you recommend for presser?
Yes Mike its the wrong color. when I first sprayed it I thought it was just the lighting. But this morning I pulled some tape off the door and there was big difference between them. I sprayed 3 coats on the first time to buff it out if needed.
For the re-paint, I will make the trip get paint from the far shop, their paint guy is a lady thats been doing it for years. Nobody else mixes their paint. Then sounds like I need to DA then wet-block sand the car with 600 to 800 grit to get the shine off. And use gray scotch bright where needed. Do I need to sand down to the paint or just the clear? Then apply 3 coats of clear. Not thought of adding hardner to the clear. But I guess it would not hurt. Anyother thoughts to this?
I used a HVLP gun for the paint and clear. SO I assume that I should not use HVLP on the clear? I do have another gravity fed gun that is not HVLP. Do I spray the clear on light or heavy?

Again thanks ofr all the help FABO.
 
Looks like you gun cant adomize the clear properly and when spraying always use a 50% over lap.
 
HemiPar said:
Thanks for the comments guys. I used Nason 2k clear and mid-temp activator. The temps here was 65-70 while applying the clear. Air was set at 45psi at the gun. What do you recommend for presser?



Yes Mike its the wrong color. when I first sprayed it I thought it was just the lighting. But this morning I pulled some tape off the door and there was big difference between them. I sprayed 3 coats on the first time to buff it out if needed.
For the re-paint, I will make the trip get paint from the far shop, their paint guy is a lady thats been doing it for years. Nobody else mixes their paint. Then sounds like I need to DA then wet-block sand the car with 600 to 800 grit to get the shine off. And use gray scotch bright where needed. Do I need to sand down to the paint or just the clear?

Sand the shine off, and make it smooth, with enough scratch to allow the paint to bite, maybe get a product sheet from the paint store and read the manufacturer suggestions.


Then apply 3 coats of clear. Not thought of adding hardner to the clear. But I guess it would not hurt. Anyother thoughts to this?

Only mix what the maunfacturer says, be as critical of mixing chemicals as you would following a cooking recipe,be very specific, use glass measuring cups(don't put them back in the kitchen-lol)

I used a HVLP gun for the paint and clear. SO I assume that I should not use HVLP on the clear? I do have another gravity fed gun that is not HVLP. Do I spray the clear on light or heavy?


Spray the first coat on a bit light(tack coat),again find the manufacturer's suggestions,then you can lay the clear on with medium wet coats, you should be &ble to see a good reflection in the last pass(the one above or below the one you are currently spraying)


Again thanks ofr all the help FABO.
Click to expand...


Good luck!
 
Are you using the same gun for base and clear ? You should be using a larger tip for the clear wich will help it smooth out.
 
Thanks for all the tips.
Adam, yes I was using the same gun. What size tip should I use? the one in the gun, i beleive is 1.4 or something like that.
 
DBU 2210 is a PPG product that is available in a "factory pack" which means it comes from PPG mixed. Such a simple formula you wonder how it can get screwed up...
 
Hey all I need more help, go figure huh?

Anyway, while sanding the clear with 800 grit to get the shine off clear coat, I see some dings I missed during my first block sanding. What do I need to do to fix this screw-up? :read2:

As far as paint, well the Dupont formula for Plum Crazy (C7) in the B/C is wronge. I took what was left of the B/C to the shop where I got it from. They would not do anything bout it:thebirdm:. They said that was the formula in the computer and the paint chart says " color on chip may not be exact". He asked what I was comparing the color to. I told him the color PLUM CRAZY:evil4:. and the paint you mixed for me is not Plum Crazy. So I took my single stage to the far paint shop. They looked up the formula for both single and B/C and they were totaly different. SHe said they should be real close to the same formula. So after 3 hours of mixing, I now have a B/C to match:cheers:.
Now just to finish the sanding, fix more dings and re-paint. Hope to have complete before Apr 15.
 
You may want to wait and see what AdamR has to say on the tip to spray your clear through or another tech, But if I remember right I shot my clear through a 2.0 tip.
And on the area's you found that did not get fixed see if you can block them out with water and sand paper and see if it will fill with the paint you have on it already.
Keep us updated and good luck on it, I think I would put my last coat of clear on with a bit more air pressure and keep the gun level with your surface about 7 to 8 inches away.
I have not painted in a long time so I hope I am not steering you wrong.
 
Hey all. Well I finaly got the car re-painted. But yesterday I was able to get only 2 coats of clear on the car before family issues kept me from spraying a 3rd coat. Now it has been 12 hours since last coat of clear. I still have some orange peal but not much. Can I add another coat of clear now? Plus it will be at least 4 hours till the day (warmth) gets around 60. So bottom line is can I add another coat of clear after 16 hours since last coat?
Thanks guys for all your help. I will post pics as soon as battery chargers....
 
HemiPar said:
Hey all. Well I finaly got the car re-painted. But yesterday I was able to get only 2 coats of clear on the car before family issues kept me from spraying a 3rd coat. Now it has been 12 hours since last coat of clear. I still have some orange peal but not much. Can I add another coat of clear now? Plus it will be at least 4 hours till the day (wormth) gets around 60. So bottom line is can I add another coat of clear after 16 hours since last coat?
Thanks guys for all your help. I will post pics as soon as battery chargers....
Click to expand...
Your out of luck, Its out of its window for recoating If you want 3 coats of clear you need to sand or scuff it down again.
 
Thanks 440, thats what I was afraid of. My mom was having issues with her meds and I had to get that taken care of. Well at least I have my priorities right.
 
Read the can for recoat window. Some paints are 24 hours max. If you're past the recoat window, all you need to do is scuff the last coat of clear with 600 grit (wet) and then spray the last coat. You don't have to remove anything and start over.

George
 
Jeff,
The tech sheets for the paint that you are using should give you the information that you need regarding the recoat window as well as the tip size for the coat. Good luck. L8r

Jim
 
Thanks guys. I wet sanded with 800 grit and applied the 3rd coat. I also found out the I should have sprayed at 10psi for a HVLP. I think to much gun pressure was the reason I had so much orang peal. I have since wet sanded with ending at 2000 grit then buffed. Today I will polish to complete the job. Here is a pic freash out of the garage before anything sanding was done. I hope to have the completed pics in the next few days.
 

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Orange peel is common with todays' paint. Go lot to lot and look at the new cars/trunks of any make. Car and Driver article on the subject stated toyota has the least orange peel but it is there.
My point being, If multimillions to invest on robotics and such can't get a slick finish, the problem has to be in the paint itself.
A rep from Dupont says the waterborne coatings are showing promise but the results are relative to the purity of the water used.
For now , We buy the same paint that is used on new cars with its UV protection, flexibility, etc.. we can expect some degree of orange peel.
 
Think on the bright side, at our shop we paint then sand then paint everything because the top coat lays out better, so it's like you got a better paint job in the end.
 
Don't get fooled by the 10psi thing, that's a measurement at the cap where the paint exits the gun and is impossible to measure without some sophisticated tools. Most HVLP guns require about 40psi entering the gun at full trigger pull. Best to make a cheater gauge and test it right where the hose enters the gun.

Nice job working around the multiple roadblocks
 
Thanks guys. I did have trouble getting my gun down to 10psi, will it would not work. It did work at 20. I do have a gauge at the gun for bast possible measurement of air.
When the sun comes out today I will take pics of after wax....
 
I add a small amount of urethane reducer to the clear to get it to flow out without all of that orange peel, sure saves a lot of wetsanding. after the first three coats are on I let them dry for 24 hours then wet snad with a sponge rubber sanding block and apply three more coats to give it that depth we all like and more protection from the sun. yours is lookin good hemipar way to go dood :cheers:
 
First off, I AM NO EXPERT! But I think my advice will be good anyway. First, every spray gun is different. Look at the sheet for the gun to see what pressure is needed. I use an old Devilbiss HVLP at work that requires 75 psi to work, 2.2 mm fluid tip. I also have a newer Binks Mach 1,1.4 mm fluid tip, that needs less than 65 psi to have no more than 10 psi out of the air cap for atomizing. Those two guns need a high cubic feet per minute, (CFM) rate from the air compressor to work. Something like 13 or more CFM. I bought some cheapo Coleman Powermate gun from a Menards near me on sale for $35. It has two guns, a 1.4 tip and a 0.8 for touchup. Real cheap guns, but I practiced with them to get the right finish. I got them also because they required a low CFM to work. I could not get a 220 volt compressor. I have a lot of fun at work, I get to watch paint flow out and dry. As much fun as watching grass grow. Nah, the paint is more fun. Hope your project works out for you!
 
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