Car stalling at idle after topping it off.

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Redhelmet

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Hey all.

Been driving my 67 273 dodge dart. Recently I topped off my fuel on accident because my fuel gauge is wonky. Usually when I am filling up the pump will click really early so I go more and then end up topping it off on the second click.. However last week when this happened my car stalled immediately after upon trying to leave the gas station. It than began to stall even faster. I thought I fixed it though when I fixed a small fuel leak at the fuel filter. But now today upon topping it off it is stalling yet again. This has not been an issue until just these past two fill ups.

I am not sure if I should let the car sit or go drive it hard to get rid of excess fuel possibly? Also any insight as to why this started happening or what could be causing this/what to look into. I could also post a video of how it sounds before and as it stalls if that helps :)
 
Are we workin on a Chevy? Ford? Mopar? AMC? Lawnmower? Can you throw us a bone maybe with some details, too? Year, make, model, engine, carburetor and any other details?
 
Only thing I can think of, unless it's a coincidence, is a partially plugged fuel tank vent

If you do not have a service manual, please run over to MyMopar.com and download one, free. Some of them there got there because of some of the guys on here.

The cap is and is supposed to be SEALED. Look in the trunk, and feel around the filler tube. You'll find there is a tube brazed/ welded into the filler tube, with a 1/4" tube connected, that goes up to the top of the fender, then back down along the filler neck, and disappears through the big trunk floor grommet. That IS the vent. It ends down below, INSIDE the hollow frame of the car. It may be plugged. Try disconnecting the hose, blow air through it, and reconnect.

If that is not the trouble, I cannot imagine what might be, unless something like the fuel pump just decided to go bad.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Are we workin on a Chevy? Ford? Mopar? AMC? Lawnmower? Can you throw us a bone maybe with some details, too? Year, make, model, engine, carburetor and any other details?
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1967 Dodge Dart GT. 273 v8 2barrel carb. Some extra details: as this is my first car. when I first got it it had a similar stalling issue. So I tried my best to adjust timing and idle mixture screws unsure if I did it perfectly. But it did stop it from stalling ever again. This was two years ago not sure if it matters now.
 
67Dart273 said:
Only thing I can think of, unless it's a coincidence, is a partially plugged fuel tank vent

If you do not have a service manual, please run over to MyMopar.com and download one, free. Some of them there got there because of some of the guys on here.

The cap is and is supposed to be SEALED. Look in the trunk, and feel around the filler tube. You'll find there is a tube brazed/ welded into the filler tube, with a 1/4" tube connected, that goes up to the top of the fender, then back down along the filler neck, and disappears through the big trunk floor grommet. That IS the vent. It ends down below, INSIDE the hollow frame of the car. It may be plugged. Try disconnecting the hose, blow air through it, and reconnect.

If that is not the trouble, I cannot imagine what might be, unless something like the fuel pump just decided to go bad.
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Thank you I will take a look. This is a newly replaced fuel pump I got at oriellys so I hope it’s not that lol.
 
Redhelmet said:
Thank you I will take a look. This is a newly replaced fuel pump I got at oriellys so I hope it’s not that lol.
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Did you replace the suction hose? Take a look at it in any case. I would certainly replace the tank to fuel tube hose, as well as the fuel tube to pump hose, and make certain they are not crimping under suction. I'd also take a look at the pump to carb hose and fittings.
 
I just did a fuel system service to my Ford truck. Although not a Mopar, it had some OLD sections of rubber supply hose and the one that connected the fuel sender to the main supply line was VERY soft. I was having an issue where the truck would stumble and fall off and almost completely die when going up an incline when I had my foot in it pretty good. Back off the gas some and it recovered. SO I went through and replaced ALL the small sections of rubber hose with good Gates EFI Barricade hose. Man that stuff is STIFF. That completely eliminated my issue. The soft rubber hose was being sucked shut. Just one more thing to check. Simple and CHEAP to fix, too. Worth doing even if that's not the issue.
 
67Dart273 said:
Did you replace the suction hose? Take a look at it in any case. I would certainly replace the tank to fuel tube hose, as well as the fuel tube to pump hose, and make certain they are not crimping under suction. I'd also take a look at the pump to carb hose and fittings.
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For sure I will. Does it make any difference if it’s mainly only stalling in gear at idle? Could it be a tuning issue idle screws/speed screws etc? Not sure why that would flare up after getting gas though but just checking. Also may have sounded worse/stalled faster with the lights on etc. could just be paranoia.

Mainly sounds and feels like it is hiccuping (the car will jolt slightly) a bit before it stalls if that helps give insight as well. Going to look at it all tomorrow.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I just did a fuel system service to my Ford truck. Although not a Mopar, it had some OLD sections of rubber supply hose and the one that connected the fuel sender to the main supply line was VERY soft. I was having an issue where the truck would stumble and fall off and almost completely die when going up an incline when I had my foot in it pretty good. Back off the gas some and it recovered. SO I went through and replaced ALL the small sections of rubber hose with good Gates EFI Barricade hose. Man that stuff is STIFF. That completely eliminated my issue. The soft rubber hose was being sucked shut. Just one more thing to check. Simple and CHEAP to fix, too. Worth doing even if that's not the issue.
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For sure I’m going to replace hoses and what not asap thank you for the reply.
 
Redhelmet said:
For sure I’m going to replace hoses and what not asap thank you for the reply.
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Make SURE you use the hose I described. It or any other EFI approved rubber hose are the only rubber hoses formulated to handle ethanol and they don't do it on a permanent basis. They just last longer. There is a hose between the regular carbureted hose and the EFI Barricade hose that SAYS it's ethanol friendly, but it's really not.
 
When it does this get out and take the fuel cap off. If its the vent tube you should hear a suction release from the fill tube. You may have two problems a partially clogged vent and a weak china fuel pump.

I remember years ago I had this problem and I put a new Direct Connection pump on the engine. I partially collapsed the tank with excessive suction from the new pump. There was a mud dauber wasp in the vent line .

Blow out the vent tube and get a upgraded pump.

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Not this

1717504023828.png
 
Redhelmet said:
If any of you have any vapor lock solutions more specific to 2barrel bbd 273 1967 dodge dart setup feel free to give any tips.
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I can tell you how to verify it. Get a bunch of wood clothespins and clamp them on all of the metal fuel line you can get to. A bunch of um. If the problem goes away, it's vapor lock. It's actually very rare to have real vapor lock though.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I can tell you how to verify it. Get a bunch of wood clothespins and clamp them on all of the metal fuel line you can get to. A bunch of um. If the problem goes away, it's vapor lock. It's actually very rare to have real vapor lock though.
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Absolutely going to do that tomorrow. I live in Bakersfield so its just now reaching 100 degrees so it makes sense as to why I am having this issue now. But yea I will see if the pins fix it!
 
The alky-ized fuel is much worse for fuel boiling. One of the best things I did with my 67 was to build a vapor return system and use a carb insulator. I used a rear mount electric pump and ditched mechanical. You can buy fuel filters with built in return orifices. The hardest part is getting back into the tank. I temp connected the tank vent tube to a "high" outlet tube and plumbed CO2 from my MIG welder into the feed tube. Let it flow for a considerable time. I could light off the fumes being forced out of the temporary vent tube. When you could no longer light them, I knew the fumes were being displaced. I let the CO2 flow for several minutes longer, then punched (not drilled) a hole in the tank near the sender, and silver brazed a piece of tube in the hole for the return.

The best thing I did after that was go with EFI
 
Lord Sparky said:
It might be a vacuum issue with the tank or cap. I put my ear next to the filler tube and stop at first girgle.
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I wind up doing the exact same thing but not for driveability reasons. If not then usually gas backsplashes out and down the quarter panel. Probably a combination of the gas pump and the angle of the filler neck in the Scamp. I’m sure peeps filling up at adjacent pumps think I have a fuel sniffing problem.
 
Turns out my fuel pump is busted and I can see gas sitting/dripping around the diaphragm. I am going to replace it this weekend with whatever I can get as a quick fix. However I am concerned now as to if that was leaking into the crankcase and oil and if this is an immediate concern as I just got a fresh oil change a few weeks ago. The car has been driving to and from work daily without much issue doesn’t want to stall until I get home and let it sit idling in the driveway. After about 15-20 min drive 105 degree weather.

If anyone has more input on better mechanical fuel pumps to buy or mechanical vs electrical. As well has to input as to how you setup your electrical fuel pumps that would be appreciated.
 
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