car still diseling run on prob

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Do you have a metering plate or a block in the back? Most Holleys don't have power valves in the back. You may need more than 81 if you are only running 71's or so in the front. Do you have jets in the rear?
 
I do have the plate in the back and it doesnt have adjuster on it like the front does. Well as soon as I mess with the timming Im going to rip the carb off and go though it with new gaskets
 
In fact if you want to just send me the carb and gasket kit I'll set it up for you no charge. Just pay the shipping to and from.
 
Hmmm... My engine only pulls 7.5 inches of vacuum and with a 4.5 power valve works great. I tuned it with an oxygen sensor so I'm sure the mixture is very close. If he gets rid of the power valve it may very well quench the spark knock cause it'll run much richer at part throttle. That'll also kill the gas mileage if it's street driven. I've tuned several Holley's for guys with street cars and never had an instance where I had to eliminate the power valve. JMHO

BTW: You don't have mixture adjustments on the back because it's a standard Holley. It does have an idle circuit in the secondaries and the speed is adjustable, just not the mixture. Definetly open up the secondaries some as others have said. The adjustment for it is on the bottom passenger rear side of the baseplate so the carb usually has to come off to access it. It's a very small screw and usually tight so don't strip it. Give it 1/2 to 3/4 turn and that should let you close the primaries some so the idle slots won't be exposed.
 
so if i have 9-10psi of vacc shouldent 5.5 6.5 be fine? holley says half of what the vacc is
 
Guitar Jones said:
In fact if you want to just send me the carb and gasket kit I'll set it up for you no charge. Just pay the shipping to and from.
Click to expand...

thank you thats so tempting..but the down time would kill me and I was saving up to send it to BIGGS to have to done all fancy and snazzy without any flaws, but if I fall short of that I will def. send it to you
 
ok so I dont know if too much initial can do this, but It looks like The new plugs are to cold because some of the plating burnt off and its right near the tip on the top

plugs2.jpg
 
have you cracked open your secondaries yet? If you are running at idle with
the transfer slots exposed you will never get rid of the run on. Get those
cracked open a little so you can lower the idle screw. Also look at your
timing for initial. Faster initial will allow you to lower the idle screw speed
also and may work instead of cracking open the secondaires. What is
your initial set at currently? What is your total at all in?

FYI I run about 10-12 InHg at idle and a 5.5 PV over the 6.5 PV made a big
difference for me FWIW.
 
well it had a 7.5 and i just put the 6.5 in till I get a 5.5. we were running something like 18initial and 34-35 total. were going to lower it to 32 total
 
I have a new 4.5 you are welcome to have if you want to try that.

Your timing sounds about right on. The higher timing should give you better
air fuel mix with a high lift long duro cam, that's why they need more initial
to smooth things out. Did you hook a vacuum gauge up to make sure 18
is about right for the cam? In other words, hook up a vacuum gauge and keep
advancing your timing, keeping your idle rpms constant until you reach max
vacuum reading then back off one degree. That's a great place to start for
timing and should be great unless it's over 20 and then you might start to
get starter kickback in which case you can lower it back down.
 
ya i did i have around 13-14 psi of vac now and could possibly have got more but this is fine. Love the throttle response. and ya if the 4.5 will help. I wont be able to tell unless im at the track
 
the 6.5 PV should be right on the money now with that vacuum.

Is it still running on now?

Your needles are not leaking are they?
 
no run on, and are you talking bout the needles under the float adjustment screws? if so no I think not i just replaced them
 
So taking the timing out fixed the run on issue? What are you working on debugging now? If the engine was built for quench, you shouldnt need much more timing than 32° total. Initial should still be close to 18° tho, and I've had to make larger bushings to limit the centrifical. I'd also say if you have a dual plane intake, I'd loose the 2" spacer.
 
losing the 2in spacer would help? IM trying to debug the richness that the car has.. I turned the secondary screw some last nite and Im going to see how it runs after I check if I have a PV and jets in the back of my carb
 
If it's a vacuum secondary, you do not have a power valve back there. If it's a 3310 series vacuum secondary, it eont even have a metering block there, but rather a meering plate that bolts to the main body inside the float bowl. And you do not want to remove the PV from a street car unless you typically either idle the car, or go full throttle. Otherwise you'll need it...
 
ughh Took the block off the back...cuz it did have one...has no PV but had 82 jets in it.. So I put 72s in it...Started it up took it round the block.. checked the plugs..kinda look like there bout to turn brownish...no more gas/oil on them. And tommrow Im going to take it on the high way and run it and get the carbon out and check the plugs
 
Sounds like someone added the metering block on the back. It's a nice upgrade
because you can change the jets instead of messing with the block. Yep,
should be no power valve in the back. 82's are way fat! You can probably
get by with 68's or 70's in the back.

Opening the secondary plate a little should lean out your idle a bunch as long
as you don't open it too much, if the transfer slots open too much you will
enrichen it again.

Do your mixture screws work when the car is idling?

Man this sounds like what I went through last fall!

Do you have a PCV valve in the valve cover? Just curious.
 
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