car trailer advice

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rod7515

rod7515

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Ive been looking for a car trailer that once my car is completed I will be able to haul it to the drags a few times a year. Currently I have a trailer that is approx 13' x 6'. I use it to haul my lawn equipment; tractor with bagger, areator, thatcher, and in the winter my tractor with snowblower. It is a single axle with no electric brakes. Works good but is not the right thing for hauling a car although I have used it to haul the Dart once before. I am not looking for the cadillac of trailers as I said it will only be used a few times a year to haul the car. I really was not looking for a wooden deck trailer but because of how slick they can be when wet. Also I am seeing open trailers that range anywhere from 16'to 20'. Question is what is the shortest trailer I can use to haul my car and what width do I need to be able to open my door once loaded. Do I need brakes on both axles and do they need to be electric or one operated with a master cylinder on the trailer itself. Not real concerned about a tool box on the trailer since I will be using a truck to pull with. I know I will need a wench. what else should I look for and what kind of money should I look to spend. I am looking at used as a new one would be over kill since it will sit most of its life. I am not in a hurry as the car wont be running until late this fall. By the way I am located in York Pa if you know of anything close! Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Rodney
 
I would get tandem axle electric brakes, end of story

"Surge" brakes" (master on the hitch coupler) are a PITA

I used to have a beat up "low" trailer. The current one I have is built locally, but is too high. You have to play with jacking it to get the car....even the Dart which is not that low....onto the trailer. So I converted mine to a tilting tongue deal and it just works great. You can buy these, a "poor man's tilt bed"

You want at LEAST a 16' bed, and "standard width." That means 8' outside to outside the fenders

The conversion:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=273175

Already have put it to good use.......

http://i59.tinypic.com/2zdyqsp.jpg

 
One of the reasons I went with a longer trailer - 23" deck - is that it's longer than the truck, easier to back up. Plus, I don't like towing anything hanging off the deck.
 
You might want to consider a winch for it. It's not uncommon to break your car at the track. 16' minimum and 18' is better. Electric brakes and tandem axles are a must. The most important thing is to have a good vehicle to tow it with!
 
My trailer is 20' and the last four feet is a dove tail. The dove tail makes it much easier to load a car. I would get one at least as long as your car is including bumpers. Shorter makes it hard to securely tie a car down. I would suggest getting a trailer that is 102" wide at the fenders. I only run one axle with brakes and have no problems stopping it with a load.
 
About winches.......nice. Having said that, I've gotten by since the early 70's with two come-a-longs. I replaced the hooks on both with "grab" hooks, and just piggy-back them onto a length of chain, so when one "runs out" I can start the other one

I've hauled some impressively heavy stuff that way, including the slug-of-a van I junked. It would not roll, the rear axle was locked. Two of us had to come-a-long that heavy ***** up on the trailer (the old metal one then) with nothing more than wet tires to make it slide easier

2lmrmkx.jpg
 
I have a 16 ft trailer and I find it just fine......
 

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Just remember also to have more tire than you need 10 ply trailer tires balanced.Car tires and 6 ply dont work.Hope you can find one at a fair price.Here in Texas people think they are gold
 
Make sure it has d-rings.my trailer did not and just using the pockets on the sides was a pain in the a**..and if you do get a winch on it don't buy into the "you need a jumbo one". If all you are ever going to load is your car....and it can be loaded with a 2500 pound come-a-long why would you need a big winch?

Please, no one argue with me.....you disagree with me about the winch argue with the folks at Superwinch who provided the charts on this site...

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-electric-winch.aspx

Believe most states require a break-a-way box if you have electric brakes. I don't have the box and never have had any trouble....but then again I made 4 round trips from Phoenix to Spokane with no plate....

Also check with your state about how many anchor points are legal. Some states require 4. I use Mac tie downs, love them...
 
Jacobson 16'deck tilt single axle 6' tongue electric over surge haul lawn mowers-track hoe-case uniloader-cars trucks,only problem neighbors and friends love it and will borrow this one before they will use dual axle with a dovetail-ramps
 
Bigdummy said:
Just remember also to have more tire than you need 10 ply trailer tires balanced.Car tires and 6 ply dont work.Hope you can find one at a fair price.Here in Texas people think they are gold
Click to expand...

So far as I know "non" trailer rated tires are illegal in many states. Having said that, I did not know this, or maybe it's changed. I ran "car tires" on my old trailer for years and years.
 
inkjunkie said:
Make sure it has d-rings.my trailer did not and just using the pockets on the sides was a pain in the ....................


Believe most states require a break-a-way box if you have electric brakes. I don't have the box and never have had any trouble....but then again I made 4 round trips from Phoenix to Spokane with no plate....
...
Click to expand...

I just got done putting more rings on mine in the "big project." For one, I needed one close to the "wench" to double line (snatch block) the thing.

And, when I hauled that pickup, there was really no good way to tie down the rear axle.......no rings on the rear, and the stake pockets were too far back.......right beside the rear tires.

WA state is pretty nasty. You WILL have a breakaway box if you are stopped. They are cheap, all they are is a "yank out" cable switch, and a small battery

And you are supposed to have 4 INDEPENDENT chains. This means you can break any one chain and the other three will not be affected.
 
Once I find a trailer it will have 10 ply tires. ( I sell tires for a living so I know that importance) As far as the tie downs it will also have 4 D" rings if I have to add them myself. I prefer a 16' or 18'. I have no need for anything larger. I know some will say if its bigger I can do more with it but that would also mean others would want to borrow it more often! As I said in my original post I plan on a winch so thats not a question. One will be added if not on when its bought. The Dove tail information is good to know, and thanks to all who advised for electric brakes and dual axles. I have found quite a few of them on craigslist just nothing close. I'll keep looking as as I said I am in no hurry.
Any additional information will be appreciated.
Thanks
Rod
 
I use a 1978 Simmons trailer. Surge brakes on both axles, open in the center (20 foot runways for the tires only), with the fenders retained by a slip fit bracket at the front and a hairpin at the rear. I love it. Since it has no "deck", just runways, it is very light. Being able to pull a pin and pop the fender off on either side makes getting the doors open on low vehicles painless, and makes trailer service / brake jobs much more pleasant. Kinda have a love / hate thing with the surge brakes, love not needing to put a brake controller on everything I might ever tow with, hate the whiplash you get on PAs tar stripped I-80.

Oh, by the way, PA requires brakes on all axles.
 
The big big trouble I see with surge brakes is when you do start to get into trouble. I've cured? saved? corrected? many a fish tail by grabbing the manu'hell brake handle and applying only the trailer brakes, causing it to drag like a sea anchor. And if it's wet or slick, the last thing you want is that big heavy trailer 'pushin' you into a jacknife.
 
Big Tex 16' or 18' depending on your driveway or garage. Mine is on a city driveway. Pullout ramps and a dove tail so you can get a low car up. Single brake works fine, but if you drive mountainous back roads, both axles, and you can add them later. The brake controller is the trick here. I use the Teknosha ($100) since it has several settings for different length or weight trailers and it can tell if you going down hill. Very reassuring and easy to set the voltage while empty to not lock up on dirt or gravel driveways. The yellow Demon's hauler is what I have with solid ramps. $3500 out the door 6 years ago. And buy the spare too. It sets on the front right, upright, as part of the rig. My plan is to use the front tie down chains with a come-along to bring it up if it won't drive, and just take out one chain after using up the available cable on the come-along and re-pull until it's toward the front.
Chains on the front and Summit Blue ratcheting straps and a foot of chain to loop over the front of the leafs and cross them for side to side control. In case of an accident that baby's not coming off. The tie hoops are flush when not used to ease the slicks from damage.
 
rod7515 said:
Ive been looking for a car trailer that once my car is completed I will be able to haul it to the drags a few times a year. Currently I have a trailer that is approx 13' x 6'. I use it to haul my lawn equipment; tractor with bagger, areator, thatcher, and in the winter my tractor with snowblower. It is a single axle with no electric brakes. Works good but is not the right thing for hauling a car although I have used it to haul the Dart once before. I am not looking for the cadillac of trailers as I said it will only be used a few times a year to haul the car. I really was not looking for a wooden deck trailer but because of how slick they can be when wet. Also I am seeing open trailers that range anywhere from 16'to 20'. Question is what is the shortest trailer I can use to haul my car and what width do I need to be able to open my door once loaded. Do I need brakes on both axles and do they need to be electric or one operated with a master cylinder on the trailer itself. Not real concerned about a tool box on the trailer since I will be using a truck to pull with. I know I will need a wench. what else should I look for and what kind of money should I look to spend. I am looking at used as a new one would be over kill since it will sit most of its life. I am not in a hurry as the car wont be running until late this fall. By the way I am located in York Pa if you know of anything close! Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Rodney
Click to expand...

I highly recommend econotrailer- had our for over 30 years-
Located in claysburg PA - near Altoona- usually at Carlilse events- talk to them for best use

http://www.econotrailer.com/

I just noticed you are looking for an enclosed trailer????
 
I guess I should have stated earlier that I only need an open trailer. Would love an enclosed but for my use it would be a waste of extra dollars spent. Yes I could use it for storage but I have plenty of garage space not being used. Again thanks for your advice.
Rod
 
Gib Warnick said:
I highly recommend econotrailer- had our for over 30 years-
Located in claysburg PA - near Altoona- usually at Carlilse events- talk to them for best use

http://www.econotrailer.com/

I just noticed you are looking for an enclosed trailer????
Click to expand...
I also have an Econotrailer. Got it at Carlisle about 20 years ago. Great price, and I like how the ramps just slide out of their respective holders. Meaning you don't have to pull them out of the holder, turn them around and hook them on the trailer.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
My trailer is 20' and the last four feet is a dove tail. The dove tail makes it much easier to load a car.
Click to expand...


Yes, the 'beaver tail' does help loading the car, however, we had problems with low clearance/speed bumps/tall curbs where it would "bottom out". :banghead:
 
U-haul car trailers have a nice feature where the left fender over the wheels, rotates outward to allow access to open and close the driver's door.


Not that I'm recommending the U-haul trailer, but it is a good feature to have. You may at least want to see how it works...
 
16-18 ft, includin beavertail, the wide width, non of that narrow cheap stuff with the rails.. if ya got 3/4 or ton truck ya can get by without brakes UNLESS roads are wet and ya need to stop quick!! LOL I've used small hand wich for years, but electric winch is nice.... I run them with any tire that isn't rotted, but yes safer with heavy ply tire rated for the job////
people argue over the floor- some say metal is slicker- I've had car trailers for 40 yrs and had both, I prefer the metal....
yes ok tx they think trucks and trailers are gold plated... due to the fact how many people there need them, livestock, horse, car, what have ya....
 
barbee6043 said:
- I've had car trailers for 40 yrs and had both, I prefer the metal....
..
Click to expand...

I tend to agree. I think once it's wet, probably doesn't matter metal or wood. They BOTH can be slimy. My present trailer is wood, because "that's what I found" used at a good buy. I cannot afford a fancy one. This one is about 22-2500 new, I paid I think 1100 for it used.

Metal is more hardy, if you are doing stuff like dragging wrecks up on with no wheels/ tires
 
67Dart273 said:
I tend to agree. I think once it's wet, probably doesn't matter metal or wood. They BOTH can be slimy. s
Click to expand...


Maybe paint it with some of that "grippy/coarse" paint for garage floors for better traction...
 
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