CAUSES? High oil pressure

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BIG-B-Barracuda

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Hey guys my 1968 barracuda with a 440 Magnum just jumped from marking half way on my oil pressure gauge to HIGH- I did he oil change and new oil filter I used 20 -50 high mileage oil

What could be going wrong here
Oil too thick?
Bad oil filter?

HELP- thank you :cheers::cheers::blackeye::angry5::lurk:
:lurk::coffee2:
 
There may not be anything wrong.
New oil will register higher than older oil, and thicker oil than you were using will make it even higher.
 
Well I changed out he oil about a month back
It was registering properly
My car has a oil leak not sure if it's from oil pan or leaking from power steering
So I poured in extra oil I case it was running low
It was marking high before and now it is still marking high
It goes down a tad bit if I'm in the freeway and I step on it.
That's pretty much it but only a tiny bit
 
Time of oil change was registering properly
My car was sitting for about three weeks and just got it running again and that's when it started
It was sitting because I collapsed the steering column and just now switched it out
 
Maybe you have too much oil in it? Or maybe before it had a little clog in the oil line to your gauge.What is the PSI reading?
 
Probably the oil too thick. Isn't that the only thing you changed? "High Mileage" oil is intended for cars with worn bearings or bad rings. If you don't need it, don't use it. It probably won't do any harm, but you may get slightly worse mileage.
 
Oh geez your probably going to laugh at me but I'm going by the OE gauge that's on the car the water temp is he only gauge that doesn't work on it so that's the only gauge that I have flyer market .
That water gauge is reading normaly hat it always read which is 190ish not sure what type of gauge it is off the top of my head
 
Oh geez your probably going to laugh at me but I'm going by the OE gauge that's on the car the water temp is he only gauge that doesn't work on it so that's the only gauge that I have flyer market .
That water gauge is reading normaly hat it always read which is 190ish not sure what type of gauge it is off the top of my head

what are you trying to say? whaat is "flyer market"
 
I run Z-alt 20/50. Do yourself a big favor and pick-up an after market Oil Pressure gauge,hook it up and see what it reads! I just lately installed oil/water gauges in my Cuda because with my new motor I was getting worried because my factory water gauge was over the top when at idle for a while.The after market gauge reads 180 max! Old gauges might not be so reliable anymore. Just my opinion..
 
I use high mileage oil in my 2008 with only 34,000 miles. Been doing it since I first got it at 28,000 miles--its on its 3rd oil change, lol. on the other 2008 I got, I switch to high mile oil at 15,000 miles, it has 85,000 miles now and all is good.

I figure te oil is more epa non friendly. Cars today are to last 150,000 miles and still pass smog, so the oil is very low on zinc and other good stuff, if the only says its for 75,000 miles or more, its likely has a tad more of the good stuff in it.

I used 10w-30, the cap says 5w-30 but if you read the owners manual 10w-30 oil is fine and recommended for higher temps. 5w-30 just gives a bit better mpg

My 340 gets 20w-50 racing oil, not street legal since it was first started
 
Well I changed out he oil about a month back
It was registering properly
My car has a oil leak not sure if it's from oil pan or leaking from power steering
So I poured in extra oil I case it was running low

t


That's always a good idea.:eek:ops:
 
Get a "real" oil gauge on the thing before you do anything else!!!
 
I think you should run lighter weight oil in it if a good mechanical gauge still makes it seem too high. I think a lot of you guys are loosing mileage and power if you are using thicker than 15w-40 if the engine has good bearing clearances on the street. I use rotella T myself for the Duster's engine. My next engine will have a hydraulic roller camshaft...will not be that worried about zinc...after a good break in (1st year of driving or so) on some break in oil, I'll probably switch to a good synthetic.

I use high mileage oil in my 2008 with only 34,000 miles. Been doing it since I first got it at 28,000 miles--its on its 3rd oil change, lol. on the other 2008 I got, I switch to high mile oil at 15,000 miles, it has 85,000 miles now and all is good.

I figure te oil is more epa non friendly. Cars today are to last 150,000 miles and still pass smog, so the oil is very low on zinc and other good stuff, if the only says its for 75,000 miles or more, its likely has a tad more of the good stuff in it.

I used 10w-30, the cap says 5w-30 but if you read the owners manual 10w-30 oil is fine and recommended for higher temps. 5w-30 just gives a bit better mpg

My 340 gets 20w-50 racing oil, not street legal since it was first started

No need for high-mileage oil at all. I have a 2004 Colorado with 104,000 miles. Has had nothing but Yellow Bottle Pennzoil 5w-30, and Purolator standard filters since I purchased it at 25k miles. Change it every 4-5k. Oil pressure is the same as when i put the oil pressure gauge on it at 30k. You could eat off the inside of this thing. Uses and leaks absolutely ZERO oil. The stuff has a lot of detergents in it, keeps it clean, purolator oil filters are good.

Also used to have a 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme that had the same (previous owner also subscribed to my fluids/intervals), ran absolutely amazing at 200k miles when it was retired. It leaked about 1/4 quart after 3k, and that engine worked hard (3200lb car with tall gears, automatic and 125hp/155lb-ft)
 
Yeah but its just $2 more for a 5 quart jug, I buy the plus filters also for $2 more. my 1992 Old we had for 19 years and 186,000 miles, no work done on the engine expect for a water pump and idler pulley and I drove it with a lead foot for 19 years
 
"HI MILEAGE" motor oil isn't any thicker. It just has additives in it for use in engine that are a litlle more worn. A 20w50 motor oil is a 20w50 motor oil no matter if it's hi mileage or not. It's a viscosity rating(20w50, 10w30 etc) so it has to be the same as ony other oil rated the same weight.

Personally I don't necessarily think the high mileage oils are anything but hype & that you are either going to just leak or burn more expensive oil than you would with regular oil. But that's JMO.

I think the 1st thing you have to do is verify what the oil pressure really is. Secondly what do you define as high?
 
Get a "real" oil gauge on the thing before you do anything else!!!

Xs3

You said that it goes down a little if you step on it a little.
AND that it started doing it after a column change.
Did anyone else catch that?

It should go UP when you step on it, not down.

It's the guage. or the electrics that control it. (power, ground, ect)
 
Xs3

You said that it goes down a little if you step on it a little.
AND that it started doing it after a column change.
Did anyone else catch that?

It should go UP when you step on it, not down.

It's the guage. or the electrics that control it. (power, ground, ect)
X4 like I said in the begining.. get a new guage..
 
"HI MILEAGE" motor oil isn't any thicker. It just has additives in it for use in engine that are a litlle more worn. A 20w50 motor oil is a 20w50 motor oil no matter if it's hi mileage or not. It's a viscosity rating(20w50, 10w30 etc) so it has to be the same as ony other oil rated the same weight.

Personally I don't necessarily think the high mileage oils are anything but hype & that you are either going to just leak or burn more expensive oil than you would with regular oil. But that's JMO.

I think the 1st thing you have to do is verify what the oil pressure really is. Secondly what do you define as high?


All the way on the OE gauge on HIGH ON THE H
 
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