Center drag link, are they really $600? 1964 dart

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DumpsterFire

DumpsterFire

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Swapping a 64 dart to a 360 magnum from the slant 6. I know I need to change out to the v8 drag link but I'm not about to pay that much for one. I don't see why I can't cut and weld the part I got and and thinking about going that route. Saw one guy shimed the engine up but I don't like the idea of that.
 
Firm Fell sells new for like 300. The fact is, sometimes you don't need one. I did a 360 swap in a 65 slant 6 Valiant years ago and retained the slant 6 center link. It was close, but it didn't hit.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Firm Fell sells new for like 300. The fact is, sometimes you don't need one. I did a 360 swap in a 65 slant 6 Valiant years ago and retained the slant 6 center link. It was close, but it
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If that's the case I might just beat in the oil pan if need be.
 
Looks like I'm not willing to pay what they're worth to be honest. Rather go the not bill my hours and pretend I'm saving money wasting time making something myself. But if folks are saying it's super close to working I'm gonna give it a try with the slant 6 link.
RAT ROD AL said:
Put up a WANTED add here , someone may have one at a better price than $600
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DumpsterFire said:
Looks like I'm not willing to pay what they're worth to be honest. Rather go the not bill my hours and pretend I'm saving money wasting time making something myself. But if folks are saying it's super close to working I'm gonna give it a try with the slant 6 link.
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The whole reason you would not bash in your oil pan to clear the slant 6 link is because with a mid sump oil pan, oil sloshing back on hard excels has actually been the cause of oil starvation. Adding a larger hurdle for oil to return to the sump is not good. Also with the early abodies- hood clearance is horrible. Raising the engine up means possibly an air cleaner into the hood or running a short cleaner means less air in the engine. Those center links typically sell on here for like $100-150.

Also, for your first post it was kinda a complaint / aggressive. We are a decent bunch on here. Grant you - a little quirky sometimes but you won’t find a better group of people.
Syleng1
 
For $600 I'd buy a badass dry sump system and free up a few ponies while I was at it
 
Do you have a Oxy/Acc torch? You can heat the pitman arm and Idler arm and bend them down for some added clearance. One thing do NOT quench the heated parts with water just let them air cool. That way you don't make it brittle. If your a little more into metallurgy look into anieling them after you get them bent. The biggest negative to this method is it may adversely affect your bump steer.
 
Syleng1 said:
The whole reason you would not bash in your oil pan to clear the slant 6 link is because with a mid sump oil pan, oil sloshing back on hard excels has actually been the cause of oil starvation. Adding a larger hurdle for oil to return to the sump is not good. Also with the early abodies- hood clearance is horrible. Raising the engine up means possibly an air cleaner into the hood or running a short cleaner means less air in the engine. Those center links typically sell on here for like $100-150.

Also, for your first post it was kinda a complaint / aggressive. We are a decent bunch on here. Grant you - a little quirky sometimes but you won’t find a better group of people.
Syleng1
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$100 is more like what I figured it would cost orginaly.
 
mod5v said:
Do you have a Oxy/Acc torch? You can heat the pitman arm and Idler arm and bend them down for some added clearance. One thing do NOT quench the heated parts with water just let them air cool. That way you don't make it brittle. If your a little more into metallurgy look into anieling them after you get them bent. The biggest negative to this method is it may adversely affect your bump steer.
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That might be better then cutting and welding it. Or maybe I'll drop the entire link down with spacers. Is that an insane idea for some reason?
 
First thing I would do would be to install the engine/trans and check the clearance. Chances are you won't need to change anything. My first '65 Valiant (170, 3 spd.) my Dad put a 340 into back in late '69 and the 2nd '65 (225, auto) I put together in the mid-70s cleared just fine. As far as shimming the motor mounts, I did that on the 2nd one for clearance on the fenderwell headers I ran. Used a couple large fender washers between the stud & frame and never had a problem. Another area that some folks have clearance trouble with is the seam in the tunnel. There again, no problem on either of mine.
YMMV, though.
 
DumpsterFire said:
That might be better then cutting and welding it. Or maybe I'll drop the entire link down with spacers. Is that an insane idea for some reason?
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The insane idea to me is modifying something before you know you have to.
 
We're talking about a very critical steering component here.. I am not sure after reading this we can surmise you possess the knowledge to mod/fit to work much less bash oil pans..
 
For what it's what, I think Firm Feel has them for $400 plus whatever they charge for shipping. Still a stupid price in my opinion, but if you can't find a used one and you can't get a slant six version to work, what else are you gonna do?
 
cutting and welding suspension components? your game better be en pointe and the work along with the measurements best be dress-right-dress or you're gonna **** up more than you can fix right quick.

1- make sure you have the right mounts and brackets.
2- make sure you have the right oil pan
2- shim if necessary
3- if above does not work: buy the right ******* part for the job
 
DumpsterFire said:
Swapping a 64 dart to a 360 magnum from the slant 6. I know I need to change out to the v8 drag link but I'm not about to pay that much for one. I don't see why I can't cut and weld the part I got and and thinking about going that route. Saw one guy shimed the engine up but I don't like the idea of that.
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For that price, I think I'll sell one of my NOS ones........:steering::eek:
 
mopowers said:
For what it's what, I think Firm Feel has them for $400 plus whatever they charge for shipping. Still a stupid price in my opinion, but if you can't find a used one and you can't get a slant six version to work, what else are you gonna do?
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395 plus shippin and of course they are sold out.
 
Dam, first it was the 8 3/4, then the LD340, then the 340 manifolds, then the 340 valve covers, then the 340 air cleaner, now the V8 center link ? Sweet Baby Jesus !!!!!!! I'm going Cheby. :rolleyes:
 
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