Center drag link, are they really $600? 1964 dart

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Dam, first it was the 8 3/4, then the LD340, then the 340 manifolds, then the 340 valve covers, then the 340 air cleaner, now the V8 center link ? Sweet Baby Jesus !!!!!!! I'm going Cheby. :rolleyes:
everybody and their mom: ThErE's nO A-bOdY 8 & 3/4's!!!!111

presents stock a-body 8 3/4: meh. not interested. tOo MuCh MoNeY!!!!

then starts the: i'll find one in the junkyard. or the whole: back in '82 i traded Big Nose Bobby a 12'er of Schafer, two packs of camels and took his ugly sister on a date to DQ for one with a 3.91 suregrip that was blessed by King Richard Hisself!
 
Swapping a 64 dart to a 360 magnum from the slant 6. I know I need to change out to the v8 drag link but I'm not about to pay that much for one. I don't see why I can't cut and weld the part I got and and thinking about going that route. Saw one guy shimed the engine up but I don't like the idea of that.
So back to your post. $600, that's a first, and obviously ridiculous. Post a wanted add in the wanted parts section. Also keep your eye out on the parts car section. One will pop up at a reasonable price on the site. Also welcome to the site. Probably should have said that first. :)
 
Swapping a 64 dart to a 360 magnum from the slant 6. I know I need to change out to the v8 drag link but I'm not about to pay that much for one. I don't see why I can't cut and weld the part I got and and thinking about going that route. Saw one guy shimed the engine up but I don't like the idea of that.
Do you have a picture of the one you have?
 
The correct oil pan should be the first - they did make a 360 pan for the A body and yes a little rare but they are around - correct early V/8 mounts and shouldn't have an issue with the stock 64-66 linc.....BUT if your up grading brakes you'll need all that steering from outter tie rod to outter tie rod.....my late 64 factory V/8 Val has had all the LA motors with stock 1964 stuff still on it.....I don't go fast....
 
We're talking about a very critical steering component here.. I am not sure after reading this we can surmise you possess the knowledge to mod/fit to work much less bash oil pans..
I can make an alright death trap
 
The correct oil pan should be the first - they did make a 360 pan for the A body and yes a little rare but they are around - correct early V/8 mounts and shouldn't have an issue with the stock 64-66 linc.....BUT if your up grading brakes you'll need all that steering from outter tie rod to outter tie rod.....my late 64 factory V/8 Val has had all the LA motors with stock 1964 stuff still on it.....I don't go fast....
I was under the impression all the car 360 pans were gonna work. Didn't think a bodies had a unique pan.
 
everybody and their mom: ThErE's nO A-bOdY 8 & 3/4's!!!!111

presents stock a-body 8 3/4: meh. not interested. tOo MuCh MoNeY!!!!

then starts the: i'll find one in the junkyard. or the whole: back in '82 i traded Big Nose Bobby a 12'er of Schafer, two packs of camels and took his ugly sister on a date to DQ for one with a 3.91 suregrip that was blessed by King Richard Hisself!
You gotta pic of the ugly sister? Ugly ain't the same to everybody.
 
Swapping a 64 dart to a 360 magnum from the slant 6. I know I need to change out to the v8 drag link but I'm not about to pay that much for one. I don't see why I can't cut and weld the part I got and and thinking about going that route. Saw one guy shimed the engine up but I don't like the idea of that.

**** the one in my basement i only paid about 100 buck for a few years ago.. they pop up from time ti tim here for under 200 bucks.. was thinking of selling my early A V8 parts as a package. mounts, dougs headers and the centerlink..
 
You gotta pic of the ugly sister? Ugly ain't the same to everybody.
talkin' she fell out the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down.

her and Tall John got married after he got out of state and had a bunch of them half-n-half babies-- half short, half ugly.
 
everybody and their mom: ThErE's nO A-bOdY 8 & 3/4's!!!!111

presents stock a-body 8 3/4: meh. not interested. tOo MuCh MoNeY!!!!

then starts the: i'll find one in the junkyard. or the whole: back in '82 i traded Big Nose Bobby a 12'er of Schafer, two packs of camels and took his ugly sister on a date to DQ for one with a 3.91 suregrip that was blessed by King Richard Hisself!
But have you not heard the Good News? It's permanently 1981! Showroom-perfect low-miles Darts and Valiants can be picked up for $2,000, any parts you might need are in stock at any parts store or dealer, the wrecking yards are full of dirt-cheap used parts, and it's going to stay that way for everty-ever!
 
everybody and their mom: ThErE's nO A-bOdY 8 & 3/4's!!!!111

presents stock a-body 8 3/4: meh. not interested. tOo MuCh MoNeY!!!!

then starts the: i'll find one in the junkyard. or the whole: back in '82 i traded Big Nose Bobby a 12'er of Schafer, two packs of camels and took his ugly sister on a date to DQ for one with a 3.91 suregrip that was blessed by King Richard Hisself!
Richard is still blessing all my parts. We gave that man a second statue in town last year. I think that was half of randleman's budget for the year.
 
I was under the impression all the car 360 pans were gonna work. Didn't think a bodies had a unique pan.
No to your impression - they put 360's in everything starting in 1971 C-body's liked them and yes A bodies do have a different pan for that center steering link.
 
No to your impression - they put 360's in everything starting in 1971 C-body's liked them and yes A bodies do have a different pan for that center steering link.
Well I'm seeing a lot of just use any 360 car pan
 
You still might have to hammer a front corner to clear the k-member. Not all cars need that, but, don't be surprised if yours does.
 
I've seen 2 "center sump" SB pans, the difference is how close to the front lip is the sump. the 392 pan the sump front edge is 4" rearward from the very front of the pan and the 876 is 2" and the 876 takes a pickup with a long slender bend & the 392 takes the one with pretty much a right angle. I know the 392 fits/not sure about the 876 if the sump hits the rear edge of the kmember.
 
Are they actually different? I'm not an early A guy.

But I find it hard to believe that Chrysler would stock two parts when one could've worked for both applications.
 
The 392 stamped pan is the A,B,E,F body pan. The 875 is the '74-8 C-body pan, and a 438 pan is the '70-3 C-body. It's all about the clearance between the pan and the K-member and steering linkage. You also would be advised to get it's matching oil pickup tube.
 
Classic Industries (Coming Soon) can be a long wait also.
 
Good advice above.
Put the engine in the car, and find out if you have a problem! (Do yourself a favor, throw in a bare block with mounts and a pan on it.)
It fits? Fly it
It don't fits? Modify something.
Me? I'd buy a deeper triangulated sump milodon pan, and "adjust" it (hammer or welder, I'd weld in a channel to clear the link) till it fits. So what if there's a little oil captured behind the channel/hammered area. Add a pint.
It would not be the first oil pan I modified. Or the second or third.
There is no f-ing way id pay more than a hundred bucks for a centerlink.
 
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