I like the idea of lifting by the the rail as long as I can get it high enough to pull the mount out that way.
Changing engine mounts with engine installed
- Thread starter 1MeanA
- Start date
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like_A_pike
that's not factory
so I had 318 mounts installed backwards on my 340 and it kinda worked for years but eventually wore one of the biscuits out. I think that I could push straight up on the passenger side but I lifted farther forward on the driver side. I needed to tilt it back to get enough room and not disturb headers/steering/starter, linkage& cooling lines. But I watched all that pretty close as I lifted.
Edit I bet I had removed the nuts on both mounts first to allow the motor to twist more freely.
Edit I bet I had removed the nuts on both mounts first to allow the motor to twist more freely.
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Go to home Depot and get a length of 2" high density foam insulation cut out a 12" square and get a piece of 1/2" plywood and do the same.
Put the foam on the plywood on the jack. The foam will form to the shape of the pan and the lbs/sq in will be minimal.
I like the unbolt the metal mount from the block idea, really just need to support the engine.
when I changed the mounts in my car
I cut the studs shorter so next time will be much easier.
I don't remember exactly how much I think about 1/4" off top and bottom.
Just measure how much is sticking out past the nut...
just a tip.
I cut the studs shorter so next time will be much easier.
I don't remember exactly how much I think about 1/4" off top and bottom.
Just measure how much is sticking out past the nut...
just a tip.
Yes it will. Hopefully you put a 2x4 under the oil pan. It spreads the load so you don't damage the pan.
I just finished swapping both mounts on my 318 in a 73 charger last night! I have a lift and raised the car, used a tranny jack to lift the engine with 2x4 and jacked up on the pan with no issues! I wish I had read this thread before because it would have been very helpful! I was working from trial and error but was having issues with engine twisting just enough to keep one hole from lining up on both brackets, left and right! I finally loosened up the tranny mount and was able to finagle it into the correct position! I didn't touch the distributor but I had to remove fuel pump, alternator, bottom radiator hose, and unmount the power steering pump and move to the side. Used basic wrenches and a couple different lengths of drifts/awls! I have long arm's so was able to get both hands up on either side of the mount from underneath but an assistant would have sped things along! Plus I'm old and decrepit! My biggest stupid mistake was not installing new mounts when I installed the newly rebuilt engine! Mann I'm kicking myself and the car joined in too! lol I will not make that mistake again and mounts are cheap! Everything worked out though! Good luck!
I jacked under the pan and got the mounts out and put the new mounts in with shims without any issues. Getting all the bolts back in was time consuming. I have one left behind the fuel pump that won't line up. I might end up taking the fuel pump off. The only other issues are tightening the nut inside the mount on the passenger side. I might need to bend up a 3/4" wrench or get one of those flexhead ratcheting wrenches but it seems there is never enough room to get those in. The engine doesn't appear to be level so I will have to deal with that once all the bolts are in. The drag link to pan clearance looks better but I haven't checked lock to lock yet.
Yeah I had to take the fuel pump out and was able to get an all in and get it lined up but it took some doing! I made a bullet which was helpful too! Just got to make sure that the bolt on the other side is out or you may contact it and not get either of them out! I used a socket and extension to tighten and loosen bolts and nuts! I got the ratchet in place on the outside and was able to get stubby open-end combo wrench onto the inside and held that with one hand and turned the ratchet with the other! It was a pain but I was able to get it with no special tools! I also have my car on a lift so am able to sit under it and reach up even with my shoulder issues! You should be able to do the same sort of thing if it's on jack stands but may be more difficult! A helper would be optimal you on one wrench and helper on the other! Did you loosen up the tranny? Not level how, front to back or side to side? Mine is level and did not need shims!
Mine is on a 4 post lift. If I was still laying on concrete I would have been done wrenching a long time ago. Its not level side to side. The tranny mount is loosened off. I'll jog it over once all the bolts are in and then tighten things up after. Then its on to pulling axles so I can fix a diff gasket leak. Everything on this car is new, blasted, painted, etc. so I don't know who my hands still get so dirty.
I thought you said you had a lift but I wasn't sure, four post is nice! Mine is a maxjack from Bendpak two post , it gets the job done! Sounds like a nice project! Well it always seems to get your hands dirty even with new parts but it's worth it!
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Are those not barrow mounts and not the flat ones, as in a 70 Dart. I don't think you need to lift the motor that high with those. It's been a while for me changing the motor mounts on the car, with the motor in, but if I recall correctly, you can lift the motor enough to take pressor off the broken mount and unbolt the mounting bracket from the block and "K" member and reinstall the same. No reason to lift over the mount pins or dowls. Note: If you are having issues of breaking the driver (torque side) I have installed a chain over the mount, or you can speed a couple dollars more and buy the mounts with the stop plates.
I spent way too long getting the last bolt in and then got the engine levelled. The oil pan clearance is good now but the TTI downpipe is going to need a swat unless I grind the sharp corner off the center link or maybe a bit of both.
I hear you so did I! I'm glad to hear you got the engine level! Man with the cost of those TTI's I would shutter at the thought of persuading them to fit but you got to do what you got to do!
They are just the manifold downpipes and they already have a large dent to clear the torsion bar so I don't feel too bad about it.
Oh ok, got to get her on the road I understand. Sounds like an awesome ride! My son and I are working on his 70, 340 swinger, not as awesome as your project sounds you got any pics?
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