Cheap alternative to pricey flat tappet oil in street cars...

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Dave,

I did a quick and dirty spreadsheet to compute how much lucas break in you'd need to put in with a std shelf oil assuming the lucas has that Zn and Ph content. Here are some numbers that makes your solution an even better choice.

Shelf oil with 1000 PPM of each requires ~.3 Qt of Lucas in a 6 Quart oil change to reach the desired high end numbers you posted.

If the shelf oil has 800ppm of each, the Lucas required is ~.5 qt.

That makes the solution even less expensive.

Nice.

I was doing my math with zero zinc levels. I know that Brad Penn's conventional has none. I'm only going to assume, because I haven't asked any other reps, but I believe that this move made by them was nothing shy of an industry standard.

Their Penn Grade 1 is the stuff with 1100ppm zinc and 1300-1400 ppm phosphorus.

Zinc levels are way down, but I'd like to know what the industry standards are for phosphorus in conventional oils (SL rated), because phosphorus is even more important than the zinc.
 
Nice.

I was doing my math with zero zinc levels. I know that Brad Penn's conventional has none. I'm only going to assume, because I haven't asked any other reps, but I believe that this move made by them was nothing shy of an industry standard.

Their Penn Grade 1 is the stuff with 1100ppm zinc and 1300-1400 ppm phosphorus.

Zinc levels are way down, but I'd like to know what the industry standards are for phosphorus in conventional oils (SL rated), because phosphorus is even more important than the zinc.[/QUOTEAct
Mopar Action ,did a decent article a couple of years back. (Used the Mobil catalog,for lubricants). It listed both zinc & phosphorus, IIRC. A paper article available only,M/A. doesn't put articles online. Info below......
In the Oct 2010 Mopar Action there was an article about why cams wipe more now and what to do about it. They had all the Mobil oils analyzed and the rec was to use a diesel oil and the GM or MOpar EOS and also named a ZDDP supplier. Strangely, the oil they recommended was a synthetic , but that is a whole 'nother question..
 
Brad Penn Grade 1 is blended crude and synthetic. True synthetic oil (unlike Mobil 1 is now) is awesome, if you've got the cash. Motul, Redline, Royal Purple, etc. I think everyone is using Ester base stock as an additive in what is classified in most common "synthetic" oil, instead of using it as the actual base stock, instead of sour crude.

The stuff that they get up in Penn. state is good quality and very consistent, blended with Ester base stock.

Synthetics have excellent viscosity properties. They don't change as much in cold to hot testing or beyond those temps. They rate oil cold and hot at 72°F and 212°F. So, cold tests and numbers published on viscosity is not nearly as cold as oils see, nor as hot.

As long as the Synthetics have good mineral additive numbers, it is the best thing you can do to an engine that is properly set up and sealed.

It isn't necessary in most situations, but it does help more in extreme situations, especially cold driving conditions. People cheap out on their drivers with things like clearcoat for paint jobs and oil, when in reality, paying for higher quality shows more benefit on a driver, in those products, than in a garaged car that is driven once in a while.
 
Lucas Hot Rod oil is ZDDP enhanced. Summit sells a five gallon container of 10/30 for like 25 bucks. Or is that not cheap enough?
 
Brad Penn Grade 1 is blended crude and synthetic. True synthetic oil (unlike Mobil 1 is now) is awesome, if you've got the cash. Motul, Redline, Royal Purple, etc. I think everyone is using Ester base stock as an additive in what is classified in most common "synthetic" oil, instead of using it as the actual base stock, instead of sour crude.

The stuff that they get up in Penn. state is good quality and very consistent, blended with Ester base stock.

Synthetics have excellent viscosity properties. They don't change as much in cold to hot testing or beyond those temps. They rate oil cold and hot at 72°F and 212°F. So, cold tests and numbers published on viscosity is not nearly as cold as oils see, nor as hot.

As long as the Synthetics have good mineral additive numbers, it is the best thing you can do to an engine that is properly set up and sealed.

It isn't necessary in most situations, but it does help more in extreme situations, especially cold driving conditions. People cheap out on their drivers with things like clearcoat for paint jobs and oil, when in reality, paying for higher quality shows more benefit on a driver, in those products, than in a garaged car that is driven once in a while.

Excellence in educational, Mr Bonds.. Much appreciated,on the update. I need to research this,quit watching Star Trek episodes... Gracias...
 
Hey Dave just now found this thread. I also was somewhat worried about this when I realized my Jeep 4.0L had a flat-tappet cam but if you look at the stock cam and valvespring specs for those years ('91-96) they are SUPER lazy, as in very slow ramps and soft springs. My 4.0 recently started smoking and I'm about 75% sure the rings are going. I'm gonna start drawing up plans for a stroker build and I want to use an aftermarket cam with more lift/spring; THOSE definitely need sufficient zinc in the oil.

FWIW I've always run Valvoline "synthetic" oil with no additives and I've put 45,000 very hard miles on top of the 180,000 it already had and I never had any indication of valvetrain problems. Just these damn rings lol...
 
Wiped a solid cam out using mobil 1 oil 15/50. Went to a solid roller. Don't trust any oil!
 
Got 3 solid lifter cams...and 1 hydraulic lifter cam ...using Mobile 10w-30 dino oil....and add a couple of ounces of zddp ....
 
Has anyone considered the possibility, that the problem of wiped cams is not so much the oil, but the quality of the parts (cam, lifters), themselves? I have never run a roller cam, only flat tappet cams, in every thing from small blocks from all three american auto makers, to big blocks, and six cylinders. I have never wiped a cam lobe. I also have not run any cams that have been made in the last 10-15 years, except one, and it does not have enough time on it to be relevant. I do a proper break in, then just use store brand, 10-30 oil. I am running one cam at the present time, that was installed in 1979, in my 170 slant six engine, and I turn that engine about 6500 Rpm.
 
I use Lucas hot rod oil. It's about $5 a quart for 20w-50 when you buy it in the 5 quart jug. I never really looked into how much zinc it has in it. But it says it's formulated for flat tappets and has high zinc. Seems like a good deal to me.
 
i use lucas hot rod oil. It's about $5 a quart for 20w-50 when you buy it in the 5 quart jug. I never really looked into how much zinc it has in it. But it says it's formulated for flat tappets and has high zinc. Seems like a good deal to me.

2100 ppm.
 
it's all marketing hogwash...

i have a 2008 evo 10 (well my boy drives it now but... anyways)
they specifically require you to buy and use Mobil 1 syntetic, and only Mobile 1. the engine bay has stickers etc. if you dont it will void the warranty. ok great. we been using that no problems for 6 years yet.

Mobil 1 is, according to the marketing sites, notoriously low in zinc. TERRIBLE for old cars. (funny i ran it for years on my '68 dart 340 and never had problems, ran it to 7k rpms many many many times)

now the real funny thing.... in '08 the 2.0 liter engines by mitsubishi were redesigned. it's an all aluminum block, etc. and guesssssss what. they did away with roller lifters that year. LOL



p.s. anyone who is a chemist will tell you that zinc is not a lubricant. it is more of a sacrificial metal, in that it will oxidize/corrode FIRST (more reactive) and thereby protects iron/steel from corrosion. it's a corrosion protectant.






Here is a controversial GM Techlink newsletter sent out to all the dealer service centers about Zinc from GM Powertrain. Now, that being said, Im posting this for informational purposes only. Im not debating weather GM is wrong or right on the subject.

___________________________________________

Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths (fig. 1). Here are some facts you may want to pass along to customers to help debunk the fiction behind these myths.
The Pennsylvania Crude Myth -- This myth is based on a misapplication of truth. In 1859, the first commercially successful oil well was drilled in Titusville, Pennsylvania (fig. 2).
A myth got started before World War II claiming that the only good oils were those made from pure Pennsylvania crude oil. At the time, only minimal refining was used to make engine oil from crude oil. Under these refining conditions, Pennsylvania crude oil made better engine oil than Texas crude or California crude. Today, with modern refining methods, almost any crude can be made into good engine oil.
Other engine oil myths are based on the notion that the new and the unfamiliar are somehow "bad."

The Detergent Oil Myth -- The next myth to appear is that modern detergent engine oils
are bad for older engines. This one got started after World War II, when the government no longer needed all of the available detergent oil for the war effort, and detergent oil hit the market as “heavy-duty” oil.

Many pre-war cars had been driven way past their normal life, their engines were full of sludge and deposits, and the piston rings were completely worn out. Massive piston deposits were the only thing standing between merely high oil consumption and horrendous oil consumption. After a thorough purge by the new detergent oil, increased oil consumption was a possible consequence.

If detergent oils had been available to the public during the war, preventing the massive deposit buildup from occurring in the first place, this myth never would have started. Amazingly, there are still a few people today, 60 years later, who believe that they need to use non-detergent oil in their older cars. Apparently, it takes many years for an oil myth to die.

The Synthetic Oil Myth -- Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.

The Starburst Oil Myth -- The latest myth promoted by the antique and collector car press says that new Starburst/ API SM engine oils (called Starburst for the shape of the symbol on the container) (fig. 3 and 4) are bad for older engines because the amount of anti-wear additive in them has been reduced. The anti-wear additive being discussed is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP).

Before debunking this myth, we need to look at the history of ZDP usage. For over 60 years, ZDP has been used as an additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation stability.

ZDP was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Oils with a phosphorus level in the 0.03% range passed a corrosion test introduced in 1942.

In the mid-1950s, when the use of high-lift camshafts increased the potential for scuffing and wear, the phosphorus level contributed by ZDP was increased to the 0.08% range.

In addition, the industry developed a battery of oil tests (called sequences), two of which were valve-train scuffing and wear tests.

A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

By the 1970s, increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in high-load engines, which otherwise could thicken to a point where the engine could no longer pump it. Because ZDP was an inexpensive and effective antioxidant, it was used to place the phosphorus level in the 0.10% range.

However, phosphorus is a poison for exhaust catalysts. So, ZDP levels have been reduced over the last 10-15 years. It's now down to a maximum of 0.08% for Starburst oils. This was supported by the introduction of modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.

Enough history. Let's get back to the myth that Starburst oils are no good for older engines. The argument put forth is that while these oils work perfectly well in modern, gasoline engines equipped with roller camshafts, they will cause catastrophic wear in older engines equipped with flat-tappet camshafts.

The facts say otherwise.

Backward compatability was of great importance when the Starburst oil standards were developed by a group of experts from the OEMs, oil companies, and oil additive companies. In addition, multiple oil and additive companies ran no-harm tests on older engines with the new oils; and no problems were uncovered.

The new Starburst specification contains two valve-train wear tests. All Starburst oil formulations must pass these two tests.

- Sequence IVA tests for camshaft scuffing and wear using a single overhead camshaft engine with slider finger (not roller) followers.

- Sequence IIIG evaluates cam and lifter wear using a V6 engine with a flat-tappet system, similar to those used in the 1980s (fig. 5).
Those who hold onto the myth are ignoring the fact that the new Starburst oils contain about the same percentage of ZDP as the oils that solved the camshaft scuffing and wear issues back in the 1950s. (True, they do contain less ZDP than the oils that solved the oil thickening issues in the 1960s, but that's because they now contain high levels of ashless antioxidants not commercially available in the 1960s.)

Despite the pains taken in developing special flat-tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that new oils will wear out older engines.

Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will probably take 60 or 70 years for this one to die also.

Bob Olree
GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group

___________________________________________

Source: Bob Olree of GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group





The Right Stuff - Finding Oil For Your Classic

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I have a 92 suburban with a flat hyd cam ,with everything stock and 250000 miles and the only thing I changed was the timing gears ,I've only used the cheapest oils I could find but did change it every 3000 miles. 10w30. I drive this truck everyday ,unless your using high spring pressures on the valves, regular oil is fine ,most of the fuel Inj engines have smaller cams ,less pressures on the cam lobes if stock.

100% true, especally if the cam is already broken in.
 
Has anyone considered the possibility, that the problem of wiped cams is not so much the oil, but the quality of the parts (cam, lifters), themselves? I have never run a roller cam, only flat tappet cams, in every thing from small blocks from all three american auto makers, to big blocks, and six cylinders. I have never wiped a cam lobe. I also have not run any cams that have been made in the last 10-15 years...QUOTE]

I'll bet poor quality parts are a big contributor. So much stuff if off-shored these days, and you have to wonder exactly who's checking the materials and heat treatments.
 
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