Cheap *** headers at it again!!

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Slantsix64 said:
I have them in my 67 as well, the key is a decent front tire height and a rebuilt suspension, I can’t image the car getting that low on a dip to compress enough it hit. Now I use to have them on a worn out a body front end years ago with a 225 60 14 tire that was a bad combo for front end and header clearance lol
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I had three days on a fresh polyurethane front end with BIG T-bars lol. In my case, the crown was between the tires. I'll never forget how fast the smile turned to a frown around that corner. The first corner I really tried carving with that combo lol
 
Putting dents in headers does affect the performance of the headder. I personally don't have a car with headers on it but a real good friend of mine has a 1974 dart sport 360 4 speed with p/s and his headers fit like a glove. He has Doug's headers, pricey yes, but the fit is awesome. I asked him about putting dents in headers and he said that if you have to do that that you're better off staying with the manifolds. He believes that you get what you pay for.
 
junkyardhero said:
oh really?

review the evidence here and get back to us on your thoughts.

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I Seen that video long ago and I disagree with it. You put enough dents in a header tube and if they are deep enough it sure does affect flow. The best way to avoid having to beat on headers to begin with is to buy a quality header such as Doug's or tti's.
 
Dan the man said:
I Seen that video long ago and I disagree with it. You put enough dents in a header tube and if they are deep enough it sure does affect flow. The best way to avoid having to beat on headers to begin with is to buy a quality header such as Doug's or tti's.
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maybe you need to go watch it again and refresh your memory. the amount and degree to which they dented those tubes up far exceeds any amount i've ever had to massage a header in order to get it to fit, and i'm sure it's the same for most others.

and what was the outcome? that's right, nearly nothing.

again, you're over here speaking like you're an authority on the matter when you don't have headers and don't even have a car.

i'll agree to the point that buying quality pieces like doug's or tti eases the install process, but as OP showed, even the cheapy summit units don't require mangling if paired with the right combo of parts.
 
junkyardhero said:
maybe you need to go watch it again and refresh your memory. the amount and degree to which they dented those tubes up far exceeds any amount i've ever had to massage a header in order to get it to fit, and i'm sure it's the same for most others.

and what was the outcome? that's right, nearly nothing.

again, you're over here speaking like you're an authority on the matter when you don't have headers and don't even have a car.

i'll agree to the point that buying quality pieces like doug's or tti eases the install process, but as OP showed, even the cheapy summit units don't require mangling if paired with the right combo of parts.
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The cheapy headers create plug wire issues as they are right next to the plug wires and also makes it harder to change the plugs. I've also read about the header tube being close to the master cylinder has been known to raise the temperature of the brake fluid. I've done alot of research on things probably more than others
 
All BS aside I really don't trust TV personalities who are paid to destroy things and get sponsored as a real world test.. Dyno's are just that a perfect world scenario. Any Header can be made to fit, and any combo can have challenges it is sometimes or many times of the IDT10 variety..
 
Dan the man said:
The cheapy headers create plug wire issues as they are right next to the plug wires and also makes it harder to change the plugs. I've also read about the header tube being close to the master cylinder has been known to raise the temperature of the brake fluid. I've done alot of research on things probably more than others
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yes, but how many have you actually installed? how many cars have you had with headers? how many cars with headers have you worked on?

research all you want, there's no substitution for real world experience.

also, sounds like headers aren't for you.
 
Big.J.007 said:
All BS aside I really don't trust TV personalities who are paid to destroy things and get sponsored as a real world test.. Dyno's are just that a perfect world scenario. Any Header can be made to fit, and any combo can have challenges it is sometimes or many times of the IDT10 variety..
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TV personalities, sponsors and property damage aside you can't really ask for more of an A & B test
 
junkyardhero said:
yes, but how many have you actually installed? how many cars have you had with headers? how many cars with headers have you worked on?

research all you want, there's no substitution for real world experience.

also, sounds like headers aren't for you.
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Headers are for me, very much so. It's just that I'm going to buy what fits, I'm not a hammer mechanic. I've seen people have a custom made high pressure line for their header to clear. Also poor motor mounts can cause fitment issues.
 
Dan the man said:
The cheapy headers create plug wire issues as they are right next to the plug wires and also makes it harder to change the plugs. I've also read about the header tube being close to the master cylinder has been known to raise the temperature of the brake fluid. I've done alot of research on things probably more than others
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Simple little polished shield under the master cyl addresses any heat concerns you might have.
Screenshot_20240701_154355_Gallery.jpg
 
Big.J.007 said:
All BS aside I really don't trust TV personalities who are paid to destroy things and get sponsored as a real world test.. Dyno's are just that a perfect world scenario. Any Header can be made to fit, and any combo can have challenges it is sometimes or many times of the IDT10 variety..
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That’s not true. Not any header will fit an older Superflow dyno.

I modified my dyno to take about any header you can think of.

Testing with dyno headers is playing on enchanted ground.

You should be testing as close to exactly as it is in the car.

And guys wonder why their **** doesn’t run like they think it should and blame the dyno.

That and not knowing the difference between observed and correct power and torque.
 
On there for 5 years now nothing burnt. Those wire sleeves work.
No real problem with plug access.

IMG_0005.JPG
 
Dan the man said:
What's the best horsepower with manifolds
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That depends. But the correct answer is 85% of the guys on here are just cruisers and power doesn’t matter to them.

That’s who should be running manifolds.

I’ll say this again. A header that drops right in and bolts up is most likely a header that won’t make much of a power difference.

On Chryslers you are double screwed. If you have power steering it limits what headers you can even get on there.

And then, because we are all getting old and this **** is drying up you can’t even buy a good header any more.

They stopped making them. So now you are down to paying new prices for used headers.

And that’s IF you can find them and IF you don’t have power steering.

As for the Engine Masters test, an engine dyno like that does NOT measure an engine’s ability to RPM.

I’d suggest on a different dyno or in the car at the track, those smashed up headers would get their *** handed to them.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
That depends. But the correct answer is 85% of the guys on here are just cruisers and power doesn’t matter to them.

That’s who should be running manifolds.

I’ll say this again. A header that drops right in and bolts up is most likely a header that won’t make much of a power difference.

On Chryslers you are double screwed. If you have power steering it limits what headers you can even get on there.

And then, because we are all getting old and this **** is drying up you can’t even buy a good header any more.

They stopped making them. So now you are down to paying new prices for used headers.

And that’s IF you can find them and IF you don’t have power steering.

As for the Engine Masters test, an engine dyno like that does NOT measure an engine’s ability to RPM.

I’d suggest on a different dyno or in the car at the track, those smashed up headers would get their *** handed to them.
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I agree. I really want to get me a car here really soon and I believe that with what I'm going to do with the car that manifolds will be fine
 
i really hope you get this one Dan, it's been a long time coming. but if it's the right car it'll have been worth the wait.
i will see it anyway, the same as most all the members here will see it. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
Dan the man said:
Getting ready to make a road trip to look at a 1970 dart. 360/904/8.75. Has ac and ps, it's clean $22,500. It's a 4 hour trip but I think that it's worth it.
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Update us when it happens.
Also, some tips:
  • Don't tell the seller you need a loan.
  • Don't offer to pay with a check.
  • You can get a better deal when you pay with cash.
  • Bring a trailer and payment to the same location where the car is.
  • Bring the necessary DMV paperwork needed for transfer of ownership.
  • Negotiate a better price by pointing out the biggest flaws/issues with the car.
  • If the flaws with the car are too serious, walk away.
  • By everyone pizza.(Optional)
 
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