Mohawks are seriously heavy duty ! My back hurts just thinking about installing one .
And I have no back issues! Lol
Cheap lifts?
- Thread starter HankRearden
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And I have no back issues! Lol
Well I've seen newer rotary ones where 2 guys walk the columns upright like nothing.
When I dismantled my weaver from where I bought it we had 4 good sized guys trying to lay down the columns without crashing and damaging my trailer, and we tied a semi trailer ratchet tie down strap as high as we could get and my cousin (about 6'2, 250ish) was in front, I was the "anchor) (think tug of war competition) I'm 5'11/ was around 230ish back then) and 2 guys in between. 3 of us were holding on for dear life, my cousin gave the column a good shove and then quickly grabbed the strap to guide it down slow and with all 4 of us hanging on to slow it's fall we were all sliding on the concrete. This was after we took the arms and power unit off the columns.
We had to get a pretty big utility tractor with a bucket (we took the bucket off and used a choke strap on the columns to the tractor bucket arms to get them off the trailer and stand them upright.
While the columns were laying on the trailer I made a template of the floor plate and cut 2 templates out of old paneling to use to figure out exactly where to position the columns.
When I dismantled my weaver from where I bought it we had 4 good sized guys trying to lay down the columns without crashing and damaging my trailer, and we tied a semi trailer ratchet tie down strap as high as we could get and my cousin (about 6'2, 250ish) was in front, I was the "anchor) (think tug of war competition) I'm 5'11/ was around 230ish back then) and 2 guys in between. 3 of us were holding on for dear life, my cousin gave the column a good shove and then quickly grabbed the strap to guide it down slow and with all 4 of us hanging on to slow it's fall we were all sliding on the concrete. This was after we took the arms and power unit off the columns.
We had to get a pretty big utility tractor with a bucket (we took the bucket off and used a choke strap on the columns to the tractor bucket arms to get them off the trailer and stand them upright.
While the columns were laying on the trailer I made a template of the floor plate and cut 2 templates out of old paneling to use to figure out exactly where to position the columns.
The problem with concrete is.....and I don't care who pours it, there are always some thin spots, because air gets trapped here and there. With "only" a 4" pour, you're taking a chance. My suggestion is, get the lift. Locate where you want the posts. Then cut the concrete out where the posts will be, dig it out to 8 full inches and make two new pours for your post anchors. Minimal cost compared to a whole new slab and you won't be possibly risking your life. Even a full 4" pour IMO is not enough, I don't care what "experts" say, because it's MY life.
I noticed that when I got mine I looked up concrete requirements for the same capacity lift from various manufacturers and their requirements varies greatly.
I have the manual for my lift and I don't remember numbers but I do remember them wanting more depth of concrete than other companies spec*d for theirs.
I've heard of cutting out either blocks or a whole rectangle bigger than the footprint of both posts and pouring a 3' deep pour/ and other lift companies saying specifically not to do that.
My garage floor varies from 5 to 6-1/2 thick with plenty of rebar, and an 18" square footer all the way around the perimeter. And at that I was worried about it being enough.
I have the manual for my lift and I don't remember numbers but I do remember them wanting more depth of concrete than other companies spec*d for theirs.
I've heard of cutting out either blocks or a whole rectangle bigger than the footprint of both posts and pouring a 3' deep pour/ and other lift companies saying specifically not to do that.
My garage floor varies from 5 to 6-1/2 thick with plenty of rebar, and an 18" square footer all the way around the perimeter. And at that I was worried about it being enough.
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Some manufacturers and installers recommend larger steel plates placed under the legs.
My Father is a retired Ase certified mechanic and also a chopper mechanic in Nam.
He bought and installed himself a Champion Lift.
He has had no problems with it and Customer service has been excellent.
I bought the Forward because their is a family owned equipment business close and that’s what they sold on the cheaper end. I also bought a tire machine and balancer at the same time so it was a pretty good cash out the door deal.
My Father is a retired Ase certified mechanic and also a chopper mechanic in Nam.
He bought and installed himself a Champion Lift.
He has had no problems with it and Customer service has been excellent.
I bought the Forward because their is a family owned equipment business close and that’s what they sold on the cheaper end. I also bought a tire machine and balancer at the same time so it was a pretty good cash out the door deal.
You are correct - unless you were there and insured the ground was raked smooth before the pour, you never quite know if there could be thin spots/areas just due to uneven ground. I was sure nervous so I measured the concrete thickness as each hole was drilled for my lift. The concrete was not as thick as I had spec'd (9") but the thinnest was 6-1/2" and went up to 8-1/2". My salesperson, who has been selling/installing lifts for 40 years, assured me it was good to go.
Yeah, 6 1/2" is good, but I slap disagree that a 4" pour, even a FULL 4" is good. I wouldn't put a 5K pound lift on that. No way no how. I don't care what any expert says. Cause when it comes to my life, I'm the only expert there is!
Owen 340+6
Bang em till it breaks
Sorry for pic. Best i have. This is how we put a regular 2 post in with 10ft walls. 4 inch floor with 8 inch under the lift posts. Have over lifted on it a couple times with pulling trucks and such but works good lift was 2500 brand new 2yrs ago
Chuter
Active Member
I just brought my 2nd Atlas Pro 9D home this week. I would have kept the original, but the logistics didn't work moving from Northern Michigan to Southern Indiana. Mine's just for personal use, I'm building a street rod and use it for service on my Durango and my wife's Town & Country. I like the lack of chains and the single point lock release, which also automatically locks after you raise it.
For the 10 foot ceiling, my cousin had that situation, was able to dig down 2 feet so he has a lower bay in his pole barn. I think he may have added a side door to come in from a lower point, so that may or may not work for you. It would be a big expense if you already have the slab in place.
For the 10 foot ceiling, my cousin had that situation, was able to dig down 2 feet so he has a lower bay in his pole barn. I think he may have added a side door to come in from a lower point, so that may or may not work for you. It would be a big expense if you already have the slab in place.
It's not the end of the world if you end up needing a thicker slab. My 12k required 6" minimum, and I had 4" (story of my life...
)So I cut the slab and poured thicker footers. I ended up with 16" thick and went 8" under the existing slab around the edges -- overkill, but I feel nice and confident when I'm under a car. I also hired a company to install it, which I highly recommend. Bolting together the assembly is easy enough, but the setup required adjustments that I would much rather leave to a professional.
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