Cheaper than dirt 318 build

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lud

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Gladwin michigan
So I have an 82 dodge d150 that is my daily driver, I don't like the slant in it and where most guys say the more they drive their slants the more they love em, I'm in the opposite boat. I don't like the slant (in this application). It has good power for an almost stock slant and pulls good enough where I could drive it how it is. I've pulled plenty of things with it, which is hard to believe seeing how I have 2.23 gears in the rear and 29 inch tires. I have the opportunity to snag myself a 318 that should run, out of an 85 d150 that's been sitting for a long time for almost nothing. What I'm asking is for a list (with links) to what specific parts would be best for a "cheaper than dirt build" shooting for atleast 300 horses while keeping atleast 15 miles to the gallon "roughly". Remember this is daily driver. Hope to here lots of responses, and I love the slant, just not for this application or vehicle, so no "just keep the slant" remarks please and thank you, I mean it in the nicest way possible. I've already made up my mind.

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First off, if the Teen is in another running vehicle, take it all. You will need the transmission, converter, linkages, probably the radiator and the like.
 
Can't have whole truck nor do I want it (BUDGET BUILD), I won't need the radiator, but it will come with, I will more than likely need the k member, I will need a bellhousing probably from another truck seeing how I've yet to see the truck in person to look at the transmission it has. My truck and the parts truck is 2 wheel drive. Will not need converter. This thread is not for a swapp, but for a budget 318 build. Thank you for your response
First off, if the Teen is in another running vehicle, take it all. You will need the transmission, converter, linkages, probably the radiator and the like.
 
Until you get the motor you wont' know what parts to get.. a 85 will have 302 heads which is good.. it's also a roller LA block which is good.. but some like mine have the roller provision but came with flat tappets.. if you are lucky and yours comes with roller lifters it will make a big difference in how you build..
P.S. if you pull the dist you can see the lifters to see what you got..
 
'82 what ? Diplomat? Truck? Van? I'll assume diplomat. For starters, just so you know, to put that engine in the car you'll need a car oil pan and pickup tube, and a set of spool type motor mounts and a V8 tranny. Easy peasy swap. Sorry, no links, you'll have to do your own homework and type in the parts listed for a 318.
 
Until you get the motor you wont' know what parts to get.. a 85 will have 302 heads which is good.. it's also a roller LA block which is good.. but some like mine have the roller provision but came with flat tappets.. if you are lucky and yours comes with roller lifters it will make a big difference in how you build..
P.S. if you pull the dist you can see the lifters to see what you got..
Appreciate this, I will update when I can.
 
'82 what ? Diplomat? Truck? Van? I'll assume diplomat. For starters, just so you know, to put that engine in the car you'll need a car oil pan and pickup tube, and a set of spool type motor mounts and a V8 tranny. Easy peasy swap. Sorry, no links, you'll have to do your own homework and type in the parts listed for a 318.
Truck, sorry I should have clarified earlier. I'll update that right now.
 
Truck, sorry I should have clarified earlier. I'll update that right now.
well, then, narrow that down to just a transmission (radiator probably too) LOL (unless the truck tranny/radiator comes with the 318)
 
Lol, I want to keep my A833 OD
now then, you better pay attention to the pilot .... automatic cranks don't always play nice with manual transmissions.... there are remedies
 
now then, you better pay attention to the pilot .... automatic cranks don't always play nice with manual transmissions.... there are remedies
So if I got ahold of a bellhousing or the parts truck has a manual in it, it won't just hook right up nice and easy?
 
So I have an 82 dodge d150 that is my daily driver, I don't like the slant in it and where most guys say the more they drive their slants the more they love em, I'm in the opposite boat. I don't like the slant (in this application). It has good power for an almost stock slant and pulls good enough where I could drive it how it is. I've pulled plenty of things with it, which is hard to believe seeing how I have 2.23 gears in the rear and 29 inch tires. I have the opportunity to snag myself a 318 that should run, out of an 85 d150 that's been sitting for a long time for almost nothing. What I'm asking is for a list (with links) to what specific parts would be best for a "cheaper than dirt build" shooting for atleast 300 horses while keeping atleast 15 miles to the gallon "roughly". Remember this is daily driver. Hope to here lots of responses, and I love the slant, just not for this application or vehicle, so no "just keep the slant" remarks please and thank you, I mean it in the nicest way possible. I've already made up my mind.

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Just trying to help. We don't know how much you know or don't. I lost count of how many want to swap a V8 in place of a /6 and don't know the transmissions are different. I'm out.
 
Just trying to help. We don't know how much you know or don't. I lost count of how many want to swap a V8 in place of a /6 and don't know the transmissions are different.
Appreciate it, if anything I've said or how I said it came off prude or aggressive I promise it wasn't meant to be, any and all help/suggestions are welcome. :)
 
You won't need to get or change the K frame. Trucks don't really have one anyway. If you get to pull the engine from the parts truck, take a pic of the holes in the subframe where the motor mount bolts go thru. Then compare that pic to what you find when you pull the slant out of your truck. The truck subframes are all the same, but have different holes, depending on engine, where the motor mount stud that comes out of the rubber mount goes thru. It might be hard to picture in your head if you've never see that area, but you will get it when you see it. You will see knockouts in the subframe for other sets of holes. If you're lucky, the ones for a slant may be the same as for a small block.

If your truck doesn't have to pass emissions in MI, remove the air pump and brackets and toss them! If I remember right, the brackets might be tied to the PS pump bracket. If they are, be careful with the 2nd bolt up from the bottom. If that bolt goes thru both brackets, be sure to use enough washers to mimic the thickness of the bracket you remove, in order to not let that bolt go in too deep and puncture # 1 cylinder.

Good luck with it. Don't build too much HP or torque into the 318 or you might scatter that 833OD in short order!

:thumbsup:
 
So I have an 82 dodge d150 that is my daily driver, I don't like the slant in it and where most guys say the more they drive their slants the more they love em, I'm in the opposite boat. I don't like the slant (in this application). It has good power for an almost stock slant and pulls good enough where I could drive it how it is. I've pulled plenty of things with it, which is hard to believe seeing how I have 2.23 gears in the rear and 29 inch tires. I have the opportunity to snag myself a 318 that should run, out of an 85 d150 that's been sitting for a long time for almost nothing. What I'm asking is for a list (with links) to what specific parts would be best for a "cheaper than dirt build" shooting for atleast 300 horses while keeping atleast 15 miles to the gallon "roughly". Remember this is daily driver. Hope to here lots of responses, and I love the slant, just not for this application or vehicle, so no "just keep the slant" remarks please and thank you, I mean it in the nicest way possible. I've already made up my mind.

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Get on eBay and look at rebuild kits from engine Tech and dJh or whatever.
If the cam and lifters are good...organize by lobe and re use them.
If you mean re ring... buy a dingle ball hone so you can scratch all of the bore and not just the high spots, potentially a ridge reamer ... 400 Emery cloth/ crokus and polish the crank journals only till they are back to clean steel/iron. New bearings, new oil pump, new timing chain...all cheapo brands...cheapo gasket set...20 dollar iron rings, not moly. You need something that will seat quick n easy on a crummy hone job n o.o.r bore. 'Worst case'.
Dirt cheap, probably 400 bucks or so.
 
The comp "256" cam only gives up 10 max HP to the "262" grind, but has a MUCH broader (and therefore, usable) torque curve.

...but you lose the roller benefits of efficiency and reduced wear.
 
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Then I'll just say find a 2nd hand dual plane intake on your local marketplace shopper.... find some 600 cfm carb that may run without a kit, and buy a set of hedman headers. Might not get 300 hp but that will about double the power of your slant six. I'll bet if you go through with this, there will be more threads to come along. Good luck! And keep us posted!
 
The comp "256" cam only gives up 10 max HP to the "262" grind, but has a MUCH broader (and therefore, usable) torque curve.

...but you lose the roller benefits of efficiency and reduced wear.
or just get a roller with similar specs, I bought a comp roller 210/220 .500 112 with a 1.6 rocker similar to the 256, there another 212/218 114 the one richard holdener got 350 hp out of a 5.9l magnum.
 
I went with a Howards .525/222 on 109.. plenty of choices out there (i should have went 215ish.. but the 16 year old in my made me go bigger)
 
Of course roller cam doesn't really fit with "cheaper than dirt", but at least new lifters aren't required.
 
I wouldn't be too eager to swap the cam on your donor 318 unless it's a factory roller motor as 1985 is the first year of that feature and there's a chance it could still be flat-tappet. If it is roller you could reuse the stock roller lifters and just need to get a camshaft and valve springs. There are more than a few reported issues with aftermarket hydraulic flat tappets/lifters these days having poor machining and causing failures that trash the entire engine, unless you pay extra for top-quality ones and/or know how to check new lifters to see if they're good to run.

Then I'll just say find a 2nd hand dual plane intake on your local marketplace shopper.... find some 600 cfm carb that may run without a kit, and buy a set of hedman headers. Might not get 300 hp but that will about double the power of your slant six. I'll bet if you go through with this, there will be more threads to come along. Good luck! And keep us posted!

Probably get the same or even better mileage too especially with an Edelbrock carb. I'd sell you the 600 cfm 1406 currently on the 360 in my truck but the throttle shaft bore in the base is worn pretty bad and makes a big vacuum leak. Tbh even "just" 200 hp would be over double what your smogger slant-6 currently makes. My D200 is heavier than your D150 and has 33" tires and even with a stock 2-bbl-cammed 360 with a 4-bbl and headers it has more than enough power to do all the truck stuff I need and can easily cruise at 80 MPH on the freeway, not that I'd recommend it. I totally understand wanting more power, I want to put a mild cam in this 360 but my '70 Duster is my go-fast vehicle. Just food for thought.
 
So I need to pretty up the motor (obviously) so there's about 50$, rebuild kit 200$ is step one, engine will be apart so what needs done Internally should be done then at that time. What I'm getting is I should get a mild cam, and a good 2 barrel? Would a 4 barrel and intake make a big difference? (Big enough to spend the money on it?) And that's all before even getting into the electrical bits. Spark plugs, electronic ignition stuffs, coils/wires and what not. Would pistons be worth the consideration? Would my 2 and a half inch exaust I currently got work if I make the headers on the 318 hook up?
 
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