Cheaper than dirt 318 build

-
lud said:
So I need to pretty up the motor (obviously) so there's about 50$, rebuild kit 200$ is step one, engine will be apart so what needs done Internally should be done then at that time. What I'm getting is I should get a mild cam, and a good 2 barrel? Would a 4 barrel and intake make a big difference? (Big enough to spend the money on it?) And that's all before even getting into the electrical bits. Spark plugs, electronic ignition stuffs, coils/wires and what not. Would pistons be worth the consideration? Would my 2 and a half inch exaust I currently got work if I make the headers on the 318 hook up?
Click to expand...
2.5" is fine (if your wife can live with 2.5" so can you)
If you can find a cheap used 4bbl intake and carb.. then yes...
it's all your budget so for you to decide.. pistons? if they are good don't change them.. if you want to re-ring/bearing that's pretty cheap.. if you heard the motor run, personally i would cam/intake and drive it. (i'm reusing a good used bottom end for my temp build right now)
Whatever you figure for your budget, double it.... little pieces will $20 you to death.
 
lud said:
So I need to pretty up the motor (obviously) so there's about 50$, rebuild kit 200$ is step one, engine will be apart so what needs done Internally should be done then at that time. What I'm getting is I should get a mild cam, and a good 2 barrel? Would a 4 barrel and intake make a big difference? (Big enough to spend the money on it?) And that's all before even getting into the electrical bits. Spark plugs, electronic ignition stuffs, coils/wires and what not. Would pistons be worth the consideration? Would my 2 and a half inch exaust I currently got work if I make the headers on the 318 hook up?
Click to expand...
a 4bbl is a 2bbl 99% of the time but gives extra hp when needed like passing merging for fun etc..
 
Cue the "cams for 318's" show theme song in 3...2...1...
 
MopaR&D said:
I wouldn't be too eager to swap the cam on your donor 318 unless it's a factory roller motor as 1985 is the first year of that feature and there's a chance it could still be flat-tappet. If it is roller you could reuse the stock roller lifters and just need to get a camshaft and valve springs. There are more than a few reported issues with aftermarket hydraulic flat tappets/lifters these days having poor machining and causing failures that trash the entire engine, unless you pay extra for top-quality ones and/or know how to check new lifters to see if they're good to run.



Probably get the same or even better mileage too especially with an Edelbrock carb. I'd sell you the 600 cfm 1406 currently on the 360 in my truck but the throttle shaft bore in the base is worn pretty bad and makes a big vacuum leak. Tbh even "just" 200 hp would be over double what your smogger slant-6 currently makes. My D200 is heavier than your D150 and has 33" tires and even with a stock 2-bbl-cammed 360 with a 4-bbl and headers it has more than enough power to do all the truck stuff I need and can easily cruise at 80 MPH on the freeway, not that I'd recommend it. I totally understand wanting more power, I want to put a mild cam in this 360 but my '70 Duster is my go-fast vehicle. Just food for thought.
Click to expand...
My slant six is a slightly modified one out of a 63 Plymouth Belvedere it makes good power for a slant. I've recently put a 2 barrel on it and completely opened the exaust up. It makes power but it's either I could dump money into different gears in the back i currently have 2.23, or I could get a v8

20220518_221053.jpg


20220518_221058.jpg


20220520_075354.jpg
 
honestly. i LOVE slant 6's... best bang for the buck in seat of the pants feel is gears... 3.55's would make it feel like a different car.. although i would prolly go a little less than that just to keep driving fun
 
Icetech said:
2.5" is fine (if your wife can live with 2.5" so can you)
If you can find a cheap used 4bbl intake and carb.. then yes...
it's all your budget so for you to decide.. pistons? if they are good don't change them.. if you want to re-ring/bearing that's pretty cheap.. if you heard the motor run, personally i would cam/intake and drive it. (i'm reusing a good used bottom end for my temp build right now)
Whatever you figure for your budget, double it.... little pieces will $20 you to death.
Click to expand...
Lmao, right right.
 
lud said:
2.23 gears in the rear and 29 inch tires
Click to expand...
Are you sure that isn't 3.23 gears (or probably 3.21 in an 8-1/4 or 9-1/4 axle) with the overdrive? Sure, chrysler made some offset pinion 8.25 rear axles with anywhere from 2.45 to 2.18:1 gears, but I've only seen overdrive transmissions (automatic or manual) used in 3.55, 3.90, or 4.10 gears in trucks. In all honesty, I would be inclined to look for a 5.2 magnum NV 3500 (Dakota) or 4500 setup (Ram). Of course, it takes a four barrel intake and a conventional distributor but a refresh on the engine and regrind on the hydraulic roller from Oregon Cam grinders (or even a factory 360 LA hydraulic roller or the right factory 318 Hydraulic roller makes a truck engine that you have to experience to believe. Not on all out mid range or top end performance, but on low end torque. Driveline wringing diesel kind of grunt torque.
 
Last edited:
Icetech said:
honestly. i LOVE slant 6's... best bang for the buck in seat of the pants feel is gears... 3.55's would make it feel like a different car.. although i would prolly go a little less than that just to keep driving fun
Click to expand...
Driving is not fun, with 29 inch tires and 3.23 gears in the rear 4th gear is pretty much useless lol, but it's been a good engine, starts everytime.
 
lud said:
Driving is not fun, with 29 inch tires and 3.23 gears in the rear 4th gear is pretty much useless lol, but it's been a good engine, starts everytime.
Click to expand...
ahhh ok.. above i think you said 2.32 which i had never heard of.... so yeah.. 3.73 3.91.... but i mean a v8 will always make easier power... /6 is cooler if you like a 6...
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Are you sure that isn't 3.23 gears (or probably 3.21 in an 8-1/4 or 9-1/4 axle) with the overdrive? Sure, chrysler made some offset pinion 8.25 rear axles with anywhere from 2.45 to 2.18:1 gears, but I've only seen overdrive transmissions (automatic or manual) used in 3.55, 3.90, or 4.10 gears in trucks. In all honesty, I would be inclined to look for a 5.2 magnum NV 3500 (Dakota) or 4500 setup (Ram).
Click to expand...
So sorry yes, I'm dumb, 3.23
 
lud said:
My slant six is a slightly modified one out of a 63 Plymouth Belvedere it makes good power for a slant. I've recently put a 2 barrel on it and completely opened the exaust up. It makes power but it's either I could dump money into different gears in the back i currently have 2.23, or I could get a v8

View attachment 1716088022

View attachment 1716088023

View attachment 1716088024
Click to expand...

Go V8 then, you could dump $3,000 into that slant and still barely make 300 HP unless you added forced induction. Sounds like you know your way around modifying old engines, some guys come on here with zero experience asking the same kind of question about a SBM build/swap so we tend to be "conservative" in our recommendations off the bat.

That 3.23 gear would work well with a mild 318 and the deep 1st gear of your A-833 OD, and you would be able to actually use 4th lol.
 
lud said:
So I need to pretty up the motor (obviously) so there's about 50$, rebuild kit 200$ is step one, engine will be apart so what needs done Internally should be done then at that time. What I'm getting is I should get a mild cam, and a good 2 barrel? Would a 4 barrel and intake make a big difference? (Big enough to spend the money on it?) And that's all before even getting into the electrical bits. Spark plugs, electronic ignition stuffs, coils/wires and what not. Would pistons be worth the consideration? Would my 2 and a half inch exaust I currently got work if I make the headers on the 318 hook up?
Click to expand...
Hp wise the cam is gonna makes the biggest difference, now practically no one upgrades the cam without going 4bbl at least, a good tune and mild cam even with manifolds and a free flowing exhaust will give good results, headers nice bonus. take that 282hp 318 article I showed made 180 ish hp stock 2bbl with headers probably be around 200-210 with 4bbl, so the cam made around 70hp cause how mild the factory one is, i'm not recommending the xe262h you probably be better with the xe 250 or 256 or similar spec'd cams definitely wouldn't go bigger than the xe262h.
 
MopaR&D said:
Go V8 then, you could dump $3,000 into that slant and still barely make 300 HP unless you added forced induction. Sounds like you know your way around modifying old engines, some guys come on here with zero experience asking the same kind of question about a SBM build/swap so we tend to be "conservative" in our recommendations off the bat.

That 3.23 gear would work well with a mild 318 and the deep 1st gear of your A-833 OD, and you would be able to actually use 4th lol.
Click to expand...
My thoughts exactly, thank you
 
lud said:
Would or wouldn't go bigger?
Click to expand...
I've fix it :) it's Wouldn't

i'm bad for that think one thing spell another or forget to put the word entirely or words out of order :)
 
Not necessarily smaller, but a greater percentage of .050 duration to .006 lift advertised duration. The XE, Lunati Voodoo, or Howards .903 lifter specific grinds are also tailored for an earlier intake closing event, which helps maintain cylinder pressure which more importantly helps build low end torque.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Not necessarily smaller, but a greater percentage of .050 duration to .006 lift advertised duration. The XE, Lunati Voodoo, or Howards .903 lifter specific grinds are also tailored for an earlier intake closing event, which helps maintain cylinder pressure which more importantly helps build low end torque.
Click to expand...
I've never cammed anything before and this is looking alot more complicated than what I'm use to, or knowledgeable on... for now however I still have to get the engine in my workspace and clean it. Could be another week or so before that unfortunately due to work :(
 
Let's hold on a cotton picker here......

The OP is getting a 318 and it needs rebuilt?

That's a LOT of money.

Might be cheaper to get a running driving (but may have trans issues) 5.2 and spend the money on the conversion accessories.

Sure will have an HP advantage right from the start.

In fact, a 5.9 will already be at that magical 300 HP number with ZERO mods.

...and should be good for about 200,000 total miles or more.
 
lud said:
I've never cammed anything before and this is looking alot more complicated than what I'm use to, or knowledgeable on... for now however I still have to get the engine in my workspace and clean it. Could be another week or so before that unfortunately due to work :(
Click to expand...
Unfortunately for you, 318 and cams, opinions vary on here, aka highly debated.
 
Brass freeze plugs are pretty cheap, so knock all the old ones out and replace them with brass while the motor is out where you can easily do it. If your luck is like mine, if you don't replace them....the one that lets go will be one of the ones in the back of a head or the back of the motor behind the flywheel! :BangHead:
 
YY1 said:
Let's hold on a cotton picker here......

The OP is getting a 318 and it needs rebuilt?

That's a LOT of money.

Might be cheaper to get a running driving (but may have trans issues) 5.2 and spend the money on the conversion accessories.

Sure will have an HP advantage right from the start.

In fact, a 5.9 will already be at that magical 300 HP number with ZERO mods.

...and should be good for about 200,000 total miles or more.
Click to expand...
I bet the 5.2l is not far off 300hp too.
I wouldn't get caught up in hp numbers 250 ish hp 330 tq is a stock 4bbl la 360, which a mild 318 can match anything better is bonus.
 
As long you keep with cams that have an intake duration around 206-212 @ fifty you should be fine.
 
Don't worry about picking a cam now there's a sticky thread on it, not to mention 1,438ish other threads on the subject lmao

I agree though if that 318 you found actually needs to be rebuilt you should just hang on to it and go find a running 5.2/5.9 Magnum to swap in. You'll be thousands of dollars ahead. I've been down that road myself lol which is why the last engine I put in my Duster is a junkyard 5.9L Magnum short block with nothing new except rod bearings. Then I spent thousands on ported aluminum heads, cam, intake and headers instead :D
 
The donor vehicle that has the 318 in it looks great, what’s happening with it? Do you know how many miles the 318 in it has? Opinions will vary on wether or not you should try to get it to run as is, but I would probably opt to just long enough to break the gum out of the rings with some Berryman B-12 down its throat and running a compression test afterwards. The engine may not need taken all the way down for a full rebuild. If it’s a hydraulic roller 318, it’s easy enough to add a set of magnum heads with pushrods for oiling and an aftermarket carburetor intake and distributor. Most hydraulic roller 318s I’ve seen already have lifters with the pushrod cups drilled for oiling through the pushrods.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top