CHEAPest way to convert rear axle bolt pattern to big bolt pattern???
- Thread starter Ridge911
- Start date
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Cheapest and easiest way into a large bolt pattern axle for your "A" body?
No brainer here; just do a little research so you know what to look for (starting here was good) like just about any '73 to '76 7 1/4" or 8 1/4" rear axle from a disc brake "A" body for instance, then network with all your Mopar community aquaintances and buddies, and don't forget to diligently peruse Craig's List! You'll turn something up, and in the case of the usually unwanted 7 1/4", for cheap, free, or nearly so.
Anything else you do (drilling axles, modifying brakes, adapting a "B" body Mopar or one of the Ford axles) is just about guaranteed to cost you more time, money, effort, and/or a combination of one or more.
No brainer here; just do a little research so you know what to look for (starting here was good) like just about any '73 to '76 7 1/4" or 8 1/4" rear axle from a disc brake "A" body for instance, then network with all your Mopar community aquaintances and buddies, and don't forget to diligently peruse Craig's List! You'll turn something up, and in the case of the usually unwanted 7 1/4", for cheap, free, or nearly so.
Anything else you do (drilling axles, modifying brakes, adapting a "B" body Mopar or one of the Ford axles) is just about guaranteed to cost you more time, money, effort, and/or a combination of one or more.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Now that's an interesting approach. Looks like you made the adapter thick enough to space the drum out to where it would be if you had B/E-body axles and it's larger diameter gives the studs more support. Plus it adapts the register to the large one for B/E-body drums. As long as it's good material I don't see why it won't work. If it does you might want to market it as an alternative to replacing your a-body axles when upgrading to large brakes. Looks easy enough to produce so you could potentially make some decent smack while helping A-body owners that don't need race axles.
I thought about that but the cost to make them is too high. I had to machine them on a CNC mill because our lathe is setup for small diameter parts 100% of the time. I took me over 5 hours to make them this way.
Look for a usable '73-'76 BBP A-body axle. Most people just give 'em away or don't want much for them, unless they are packing a LSD (freak of nature, and yes, I do have one in my shed). Do a fresh set of axle bearings and seal and be done with it
dustinmoran91
Well-Known Member
why is everyone over looking the simple wheel adapters? he said its not high horsepower and doesnt plan on making it that way, so why not just find a pair of thin wheel adapters? by the time you get axles redrilled add new drums and pads and seals and other misc. parts your talking some cash. adapters are probably around $100 or less for the pair and are no harder to install than just taking the wheel off.
Because most folks would rather not use wheel adapters if there are better options.
dustinmoran91
Well-Known Member
i understand there are better options but he asked about the cheapest way to get the larger pattern and ballistic fabrication sells some tough billet ones very reasobably priced and if they dont have the one you need im sure they wouldnt hesitate to make it to your specifications for a few dollars more since they do custom work all the time
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Understood. Since you said you made it I thought you were set up for it and it wasn't too hard/time consuming.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Exactly
I knew about wheel adapters but I have only seen the cast aluminum versions which I'm not all that crazy about. And even if someone asks what's the cheapest way to do something I don't always respond with what I know is the cheapest if I feel it's not a good way to do things. Just my point of view.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Actually you can. you need to fill the original hole, drill for your pattern and then redrill the access hole. that's what I had done (with re-drilling the front 9" hubs for 5 on 4 1/2 and using scarebirds adapter plates) and all for the 75.00 price! but that was after making sure there was enough meat on the axle to give me at least 7/16 meat all around the bolt pattern by the hole it ended up being close to 1/2 nearest the bolt and access hole. I'm looking at a friends LBP and he's got just a little bit more meat than me on the flange and he's running a mildly modded 360.
(he likes road course setups and aggressive twisty roads), and yes I know thay've got bigger bearings in the later 7 1/4 and 8 1/4. myself I'm running a /6 and it'll be a driver. I will get a later 8 1/4 lbp for the next dart if I can find one local to me, because it's a v8.
Ridge911
Well-Known Member
I was under the impression (looking for the post where I read/mis-read) that the pre-'67 A-bodies had a narrower rear end than the newer ('73-'76) A-bodies. If the width is the same then I will just locate and install one of the newer rear ends.
Does everyone agree that the rear end width is the same on the early A's as the later A's?
This reasoning is what brought me to ask this question to begin with. I wanted to just swap to a newer rear-end but thought I had read somewhere that they were different widths. If they have the same width and same perch locations then I will happily go that route with the bigger 10-inch drums.
PS: Share your terminology definitions:
"Rear-End": the entire rear axle assembly with pumpkin (differential)
"Axle": the machined rods that insert inside the axle tubes (part of rear end) that engage in to the differential and have the hub/lugnuts on the other end.
...This is my first foray into these types of vehicles and I want to make sure I'm not complicating this discussion by mis-labeling something.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I am not positive on the 60-62 "A" body rear end assy, but I am positive on the 63-76, "A" bodies. The complete rear end assy can be swaped, they are the same width, over all, and the same distance between the spring perches. If replacing a 7 1/4 with an "A" body 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 rear assy, the driveshaft must be shortened, 8 3/4 a greater amount then the 8 1/4.
PS: The "A" body 8 3/4 never came as a LBP.
PS: The "A" body 8 3/4 never came as a LBP.
dustinmoran91
Well-Known Member
Thats why i suggested the cnc machined billet ones made by ballistic fabrication. Not trying to be pushy on them just suggesting becuse you said youve only seen thr cast version which i myself would be leery of to. But they run their spacers on high tourqe rock crawlers and desert race trucks so i wouldnt worry one bit about their quality
I've yet to drive my car but I have re-drilled axles on my 408 powered Dart. I used B body drum brakes which required this adapter that I made. I'll find out soon if it's strong enough.
If that's the gas tank I see just above and to the right of the backing plate, your brake shoes are on backwards. The short shoe (primary shoe) goes to the front of the car. tmm
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
wheel adapters have made serious strides in the last 5 years. the cast aluminum trans dapt type are crap and they crack, ask me how i know. the billit aluminum adapters are super strong and they are used in all types of applications just as you stated. hell, i have seen rock crawlers using 2" adapters running a 16 x 12 inch rim and a 44" inch tire. you want to talk about a serious stress test, and a lot of these wheels are still using 5 lug nuts to secure the adapter to the hub , and 5 lug nuts holding the wheel on. i have used 1" 5 x 4 to 5 x 4 1/2 billit aluminum adapters for years on the same daily driven car to include serious burnouts without ever having an issue. i used to periodically take each wheel off and re-torque them, not once has a lug nut has ever remotely backed loose. i also painted them black, so any stress cracks would be completely obvious, never a single mark on them. i paid 69 bucks a pair and never looked back.
tarvin890
tarvin890
new axles
tarvin890
tarvin890
I've yet to drive my car but I have re-drilled axles on my 408 powered Dart. I used B body drum brakes which required this adapter that I made. I'll find out soon if it's strong enough.
what a clean and tidy shop floor...
It seems like the wheel adapters aren't that bad of a choice as long as you aren't taking them racing. I'm in the same spot upgrading the front to disc but will wind up with mismatched wheels for a while. To skip that headache I'm gonna try these adapters on the back for now. Not a long term fix but it seems like it'll do on my 7.25 rear. Anyone hear of the wheel adapters failing or found any other evidence why they should be completely avoided?
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Folks used adapters a the strip with slicks and they held up for a while as I recall. Cracking through the lug holes I think was the problem. Also ran them on the front of the Barracuda for years with no issues. Street use should not be an issue other than checking for loosening up regularly. Sold them about 6 months ago. Check your clearance for potential rub areas.
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