Cheepy Three-Sixty build

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rumblefish360 said:
Plus 10hp
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I would have guessed conservative as well. J.Rob

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Well, normally the rags say there worth 15-20hp. BUT not knowing the heads flow and a few other more personal engine items of the engine even though you may have written them out here, I guessed what I did. What size header tube did you use?

419.4 @ 5400 is the deal?
Shhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeettttt
Looks OK to me!

Makes me wonder what a full Edelbrock or EQ porting would do.

Nice work RAMM
 
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And you couldn't have squeezed another 1/10 of 1 HP out of it so we could round up to 420 HP?
 
Thank you... that is very nice info on the rocker change. Do you think this is just due to getting a true 1.6 ratio?

It looks like the torque peak RPM barely changed... maybe +100 RPM, but I don't know how reliable that small of a change can be recorded.
 
nm9stheham said:
Thank you... that is very nice info on the rocker change. Do you think this is just due to getting a true 1.6 ratio?

It looks like the torque peak RPM barely changed... maybe +100 RPM, but I don't know how reliable that small of a change can be recorded.
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I really can't say for sure. Maybe its the slight increase in lift and duration along with have a rollerized fulcrum and tip. I 'm comfortable thinking its all of it. What I'm truly impressed with is how quiet it is now. J.Rob
 
dusterdoug said:
VERY WELL DONE, RAMM ! ! ! That is one stout street motor!
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It is a pretty torquey piece now, can hardly wait to bring it home and start the install process. I changed the oil and added 4.5 quarts of Amsoil 15/50 and did 3 more pulls. It's safe to call this a 415hp/450tq (last pull was 417hp/450tq) engine as it repeats no lower than that every time. J.Rob
 
Gamedog said:
Awesome stuff as usual RAMM!
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Thanks, It really floats my boat to think that the block, crank, rods, heads, valves, retainers, locks, oil pan,oil pickup, intermediate shaft, flywheel and a few other things were FREE. In the cheap category we have the pistons, rings (6 moly tops, 2 plain cast--lol), camshaft,lifters,bearings, gaskets, rod bolts, head bolts etc. The 4 most expensive and key components were the intake manifold, pushrods, beehive springs, and roller rockers. J.Rob
 
IQ52 said:
And you couldn't have squeezed another 1/10 of 1 HP out of it so we could round up to 420 HP?
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Jim if it makes you feel any better I had the oil really hot (217 F) and the air in the cell was just right and a peak of 421 hp 457tq was recorded but I don't consider that good information, it only happened the one time. If we take off the electric waterpump I can be confident it would register 410 hp or better every time but I like the 415 hp number better--if you say it in a fast mumble it kinda sounds like 450 hp--lol. J.Rob
 
415 HP and 450 TQ is exactly what the first 400 I built dyno'd at, and you did it with a low buck 360. Mine had a similar torque curve as well. It was lots of fun on the street....until I got the urge to go faster.
 
RAMM said:
Thanks, It really floats my boat to think that the block, crank, rods, heads, valves, retainers, locks, oil pan,oil pickup, intermediate shaft, flywheel and a few other things were FREE. In the cheap category we have the pistons, rings (6 moly tops, 2 plain cast--lol), camshaft,lifters,bearings, gaskets, rod bolts, head bolts etc. The 4 most expensive and key components were the intake manifold, pushrods, beehive springs, and roller rockers. J.Rob
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Nice work Jesse, but give it up, whose "cheap" rockers are they? Blowin' up the image I was still unable to make what's stamped on them 100% legible.
 
RAMM said:
Simulating a highway cruise @1800 rpm 65-70 hp and it was generating 200 ft/lbs uncorrected @ a very low throttle opening, which is more than enough. J.Rob
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That's kool little test, do you generally do that ? Do many big cam engines fail, or does it just tell you the lowest possible cruisin' speed ?
 
273 said:
That's kool little test, do you generally do that ? Do many big cam engines fail, or does it just tell you the lowest possible cruisin' speed ?
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I do that test for boats and street cars to determine cruise AFR. We ask the customer rear gear, tire size, transmission type, what speed/rpm they cruise at.... Then my carb guy literally re-calibrates a bunch of the carb circuitry to get us a nice lean cruise--then we go back and do some WOT testing to make sure its 12.6-12.9 (on this dyno). We usually do this near the end of the session as WOT testing is basically jetting related. My carb guru now has so much data that he refers to it and can correlate between the PVCR/emulsion package/jets/PV rating/and sometimes the IFR size and location. This is why its critical to have the right size carb to begin with. We've even had to change the main body (which my carb guy has everything onhand/onsite in order to do) because sometimes there's too much signal . This is time consuming but so worth it. I record this static cruise test usually for 10-15 secs and provide the printout at the end of the session. J.Rob
 
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