china wall sealant??

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Thank you for proving it works great....
So you took a razor knife and ran it between the intake manifold and block on both the front and back first??..
I never said it didn't work and work good. In fact, I said I don't need something that works THAT good.
 
I just sealed a customers 440 the other day and insisted on the right stuff...
He cried about the same thing. Having difficulty taking it apart and cleaning it up. And I said let's just do it right the first time and not go there....
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I never said it didn't work and work good. In fact, I said I don't need something that works THAT good.
Near 10 years of drag racing and spirited driving my 410 stroker... not a drip.... I'm convinced with my experience...
 
I just sealed a customers 440 the other day and insisted on the right stuff...
He cried about the same thing. Having difficulty taking it apart and cleaning it up. And I said let's just do it right the first time and not go there....
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Why on Earth would someone booger up one of GM's most beautiful engines with an accessory drive bracket that looks like something from Batman?
 
I like those guys that say it’s easy to clean up. Then they break out those damn wiz wheels that gouge out the aluminum. Lol divots anyone.
 
I like those guys that say it’s easy to clean up. Then they break out those damn wiz wheels that gouge out the aluminum. Lol divots anyone.
Just put thicker bead of Right Stuff on there bolt it back together and say see it aint leaking send it....
 
Everyone has their own way... love to see this a couple thousand miles down the road...
 
I use permatex Black "Max Oil Resistance" RTV. Never a leak, Not afraid to start it in one hour, easy to take apart.
 
I actually prefer the Mopar brand sealant, followed by Toyota and right stuff
 
If there's a gasket made for it whether cork or rubber or silicone, I'm not a fan of "gasket from a tube" except in the corners where the gaskets come together. Sometimes a little weatherstrip adhesive, or hi tack or "indian head" to hold things from slipping when I set the parts in place and start the bolts... Same with rear ends... I look for a gasket before I look for the tube of slime..
 
If there's a gasket made for it whether cork or rubber or silicone, I'm not a fan of "gasket from a tube" except in the corners where the gaskets come together. Sometimes a little weatherstrip adhesive, or hi tack or "indian head" to hold things from slipping when I set the parts in place and start the bolts... Same with rear ends... I look for a gasket before I look for the tube of slime..
I've got over a dozen sets of China wall gaskets if you ever need any, I've never used um.....
 
If you really want something to hold parts on with no bolts, get the Ford grey sealant. We had to use an air chisel to get an oil pan off at the Ford dealer once. Warranty PAID for another pan, too. lol
 
Yeah id take em....
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with the cork or rubber end gaskets. The way I figure it, when they finally start leaking, (usually after YEARS), there are other things that need maintenance too, so it's gotta come apart anyway.
 
Yeah, there's nothing wrong with the cork or rubber end gaskets. The way I figure it, when they finally start leaking, (usually after YEARS), there are other things that need maintenance too, so it's gotta come apart anyway.
Hog wash...
 
Everyone has their own way... love to see this a couple thousand miles down the road...

I use Permatex Gasket Sealant on bolt threads which go into oil or water. It is a gummy purple butyl rubber which stays flexible. Cleans up easy with ethanol. On my 273, I used the cork end gaskets in the kit, with silicone goop in the corners. Coated one side with the gasket sealant. Best not to coat both sides or the gasket can squash out. I did read of tossing the cork gaskets and using just thick beads of RTV, but figured should use them "as designed", plus scraping off RTV later can be a chore. No leaks so far. Especially good on water pump bolts since those are often loosened and retightened later when adjust alternator and power steering belts, so you need a flexible sealant.

But I was bit by using the cork gasket to seal the differential cover when I rebuilt the A-604 transmission in our 2002 Chrysler, as it began leaking bad. Had to remove the cover and change to just an RTV bead there. I used a Permatex RTV made just for transmission pans (better resists the chemicals). Would be fairly easy with transmission out, but not trying to work around the engine cradle with little room. Similarly, I had read to just toss the cork gasket and use RTV, but tried to be a good boy and follow the design.
 
Ten years no china wall gaskets no leaks spirited driving and drag racing... Why would I take it apart ???...
THE RIGHT STUFF...
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Hog wash...
There used to be a carburetor cleaner spray by that name, could go to the local warehouse (it was made somewhere around here besides) and there was no better.
They had penetrants I believe too, I think it was made by a company that used to be called "herdors, inc" out of (somewhere around) Mokena IL. IDK if this was a regional product or available more widespread
 
There used to be a carburetor cleaner spray by that name, could go to the local warehouse (it was made somewhere around here besides) and there was no better.
They had penetrants I believe too, I think it was made by a company that used to be called "herdors, inc" out of (somewhere around) Mokena IL. IDK if this was a regional product or available more widespread
Are you sure it wasn't based in middle georgia... lol...
 
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