Cleaning water jackets 225

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williaml said:
The car was running for about 15-20 minutes. The needle was 1 line from the end of the gauge. It was pouring here in NJ and the Dart doesn't go out in the rain, lol. I will see what my numbers are once I get it out on the road. Thanks to all checking in. I will get the new sensor to see what that does.

Thank you all so much.
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Top end of the gauge or bottom end? If top end, then, yes, the sensor, limiter, or gauge is off; it ideally would be around 1/3 up from the bottom in the normal with that level of temps. One other check you can do is to read the sensor resistance (sensor connection to sensor body) at a given temp; at 175 degrees on the t'stat housing measured with a temp gun (which is maybe 180-185 in the top front of the head), then the sensor resistance should be in the 20-25 ohm range.

If you change the sensor, and it still reads hot as before, then either the gauge or the voltage limiter is off.

How accurately does the fuel gauge read? If it reads consistently high across all fuel levels, then the limiter is likely off.
 
I changed the sensor and still receiving the same readings. The gas gauge is working fine. I do have a meter but really do not understand all the different settings on the dial. Tomorrow I am going to drive the car to work about 14 miles from the house and I will then be able to ensure the readings are holding.
 
I am haveing the same problem with a 225 I put into my 82 dodge p/u stepside. I have done all the cures listed except the head gasket. The motor was bored .030 over. It was a " doner" from a newer van and I can assure you it was cleaned veeeeery well before the build. I live in southern Az. and heat is a major factor. I even went as far as to change out the radiator w/ a new one w/ air for more cooling. I installed a trany cooler out frount and disconnected it from the radiator. I also installed a mechanical gauge as the truck only had a light. A new hiflow water pump was instaled in a effort to help the problem. two things , beside the gasket I did not see; I tried to use a 1bbl. thinking that fuel mileage would improve, and have thought that at 4025. ft above sea level its just not able to flow enugh c.f.m. to keep the truck from running lean. I didnt see where you had set the timing, to much advance ( even hidden in a bad dist weight) may help to create heat. All the other people that said to test it with a infrared heat gun were correct!! Have you tried to move the sensor, mine was right up on frount of the head ( the hottest frickin spot)> One thing I did find that helped for a temp. effect was to use a additive, I.E. water wetter, blue ice ect. You can also run straight water and drain it out in the fall. Water moves heat better then antifreeze. Your temp test at the radiator top tank reveals a lot. you problem is in the motor. Hope you get it . If so , message me as now in the summer I have to drive a blue oval because my "baby gets hot" and not in a good way!!
 
I drove the car to work today and even though the needle showed hot the temp at the thermostat housing was 190, the temp going into the radiator was 185 and it was 110 at the bottom of the radiator, to me the car has a gauge issue and not a clogged water Jacket, thoughts?
 
Rad temps and such seem pretty normal and reasonable. My '62 Dart B body will read about 200 F at the t'stat housing after several minutes on the interstate at 65-70 mph with a recent rebuild and ambient in the 80F+/- range .

Did you put in the TS6178 sensor? If so, and the fuel gauge is accurate, then very likely it the the temp gauge in the dash.

Figure out how to read resistance with your meter, and then check the sensor resistance when heated; remove the sensor lead before testing, and check resistance between the terminal and the sensor metal body. If it in the 20-25 ohm range, then the gauge is about 99% likely to be the problem.

Again, this all assumes that the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate; the fuel gauge being accurate says the the voltage limiter is very likely working OK; that feeds limited voltage to both the fuel and temp gauge systems, so if either gauge reads right, then the limiter is presumed to be good.
 
Yes, I did install the sensor as suggested. Now, I'm unsure if my fuel gauge is working correctly as previously thought, here's why. The gauge read 1/2 tank and I drove 11miles to work and the gauge dropped to a 1/4 tank. I stopped and purchased fuel and it took 9 gallons to peg the needle past full. The car has a 18 gallon tank so I'm now thinking the gauges are off, since the gauge should have read 1/2. i will see if I can find out what's going on. The only thing I can think of is that I did change the altinator last season and maybe that's the issue. I gave them my old one and maybe this one isn't performing as it should.

Again thanks for reading and all the advice....

Regards
William
 
No don't worry about the alternator; the limiter buffers most of any voltage change there. And as for the fuel gauge, it is not all that accurate even when right! So maybe I should say 'reasonably functional', rather than 'accurate'. If it read 1/4 to 1/2 tank when it was actually almost empty, or was at or near full most of the time, then that would indicate the voltage limiter was too high. Since you fuel gauge responds

The limiter itself is hard to test. All you can do is take the wire off of the temp sensor and read the voltage at the end of the wire with the key in RUN. The voltage will pop up and down at rate of about 1 second per cycle; it is hard to see this on some digital voltmeters. This voltage changing indicates the limiter is working, but does not determine its accuracy.

But at this point, I would be changing the temp gauge based on all the symptoms you have presented. BTW, if you take it apart, you might find some tiny adjustments; see here:
http://www.netlink.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm
 
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