Clutch Spring Installed Correctly

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blewbyoutobad

blewbyoutobad

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Does this look correct?
Thanks FABO

IMG_20210812_190602261.jpg
 
What Ron said, on stock bells there is a cast in recess by where the starter bulge is for the spring. On your blowproof IDK where it would be.

B/RB Engine?
 
I believe this is correct. That spring is there keep that final linkage rod in position and keep play out of it.
 
The spring should be attached to the bellhousing, doing this will indeed take care of the free play. And more importantly... attachment to the bellhousing will bring the clutch fork back away from the throw out bearing...
 
Also, when correctly hooked to the bell, it also helps to keep the throw out bearing off the clutch fingers. If you remove the over center spring, then there is nothing to aid in to return of the pedal accept the clutch.
 
This is a 340 with a blowproof bell. It seems to me that the spring is really stressed to much I'll look to see if there is a place on the bell. Thanks all
 
Sometimes, you can not just bolt parts on, things change. Do what you have to do, get your geometry correct. That means cutting, adding, or subtracting and weld it back together.
Make a tab that will bolt on with your z-bar bellhousing bracket for the return spring. Change the angle of the exh pipe, whatever it takes. Is that the correct clutch fork and pivot ? Looks short. Plus, no info on what it is.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Sometimes, you can not just bolt parts on, things change. Do what you have to do, get your geometry correct. That means cutting, adding, or subtracting and weld it back together.
Make a tab that will bolt on with your z-bar bellhousing bracket for the return spring. Change the angle of the exh pipe, whatever it takes. Is that the correct clutch fork and pivot ? Looks short. Plus, no info on what it is.
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Car is a 69 Dart Swinger 340 4 speed. All the linkage and throw out bearing arm came from Brewers after a conversation with Dan. These are the factory parts according to him. I decided to use my chrome Z bar as it matched perfectly with the one from Brewers.
 
That doesn't mean that it is correct, motor mounts sag, and your engine can sit at many different positions depending on how you tighten the motor mount bolts. If you are happy that everything is in a correct alignment, make your spring tab.
Good luck.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
That doesn't mean that it is correct, motor mounts sag, and your engine can sit at many different positions depending on how you tighten the motor mount bolts. If you are happy that everything is in a correct alignment, make your spring tab.
Good luck.
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Motor is sitting on a RMS Coilover system with poly mounts. I am going under the car tomorrow for a final clutch adjustment and try and fix the spring. It may be the angle of the picture making it look wrong but I will check it all out. I have only drove it about 5 miles. I have noticed it is a tiny bit stubborn to go to first from a stop. If I do second then first its much easier. All the gears seem to shift fine once rolling. I have not tried any power shifts. The car has 1000 miles since completion
Thanks
 
Ill have to double check mine I think I have mine hooked up like the OP. I will admit I never thought the pedal felt right but I don't drive the car much as it is going back together, and I am used to modern hydraulic/cable clutches.
 
What started all this mess was I had a B body pivot arm instead of the A body which is longer. When I was through I had replaced flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, arm pivot and all linkage.
 
blewbyoutobad said:
What started all this mess was I had a B body pivot arm instead of the A body which is longer. When I was through I had replaced flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, arm pivot and all linkage.
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Been there for other reasons but yeah. My car was apart when I bought it and pieces were missing etc. I will attest that the clutch will work with the spring like that though.
 
I will change it because if you play out how it works with the two different mounting positions the spring also helps to return the arm. The other way it just keep slack out.
 
blewbyoutobad said:
I will change it because if you play out how it works with the two different mounting positions the spring also helps to return the arm. The other way it just keep slack out.
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Yes, I am going to double check mine for sure.

I like that you learn something new every day ! :)
 
I too have aftermarket front suspension. You can still have the engine in several positions, trust me on this. What matters with all of this is this, your z-bar must be parallel to the ground and your adjustment rod should be in the ballpark parallel to it's line of thrust and angle. If all of this is good, your good. Should have lube on the bearing retainer that the throwout bearing slides on. Lube on the fork pivot points and clutch linkage. The spring is there to simply keep the throwout bearing away from the clutch fingers.
If you are having difficulty going into low gear, but goes into 2nd easier, your clutch probably is not disengaging all the way.
 
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CRUZE 418 said:
I too have aftermarket front suspension. You can still have the engine in several positions, trust me on this. What matters with all of this is this, your z-bar must be parallel to the ground and your adjustment rod should be in the ballpark parallel to it's line of thrust and angle. If all of this is good, your good. Should have lube on the bearing retainer that the throwout bearing slides on. Lube on the fork pivot points and clutch linkage. The spring is there to simply keep the throwout bearing away from the clutch fingers.
If you are having difficulty going into low gear, but goes into 2nd easier, your clutch probably is not disengaging all the way.
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Yes for some reason the engine is setback about 3/4 to 1 inch. No adjustment on the RMS system that I can see. I'm just now seeing these things after years of building and restoration. Z bar is parallel as I moved the ball stud for it back on the frame. New drive shaft so that change is accounted for there. The rear of the shifter was up against the tunnel. I need to call Bill at RMS to get his take on it. Theres no play left in the pedal so Im not sure how to get more disengagement. The previous clutch which is the same as this one did not have this problem but it had the wrong linkage setup. The clutch would sometimes hangup on release making it jerky but it went into first OK. Thats what started all this investigation.
 
can you try a longer threaded rod? I have seen different lengths over the years for Mopars also I have seen rods with welded extensions on them. I am referring to the cutch adjustment rod. actually your pic looks like you have more ajustment on the rod, however you need the free play in there as in the throwout bearing shouldnt spin all the time.
 
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