Clutch won't return off floor

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Deemo

Deemo

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I don't want to tear my car apart to find it's the pedals or linkage, but my clutch isn't returning all the way up. I have to pull it back up the las two-three inches to the top.

My thoughts are that it is the pressure plate going out. I used to be able to bark second gear. Now I can't. And then the clutch stopped returning all the way up. I lubed the linkage inside and out. What do you guys think? Clutch time?

65 Valiant 3 on the tree. Maybe 25k on the original clutch.
 
You talking about a BB pressure plate? This has been a problem since the beginning of time with Mopars. I "had it" back in the early 70's with my 69 383 and my 70 440-6 car. Careful clutch adjustment helps

What you are feeling is this:

The Great Big Spring under the dash pulls DOWN after the clutch pedal goes about as far as you describe.....1/2--3/4 " or so. So then it tries to push the clutch down, and won't "pop up." Less free play in the adjustment helps this
 
Yeah, I did notice the spring on the pedal up top. It catches then when you pull the clutch pedal up it "pops" back into position (which is all the way up). I wasn't sure what that spring did. I've never owned a classic mopar before and not sure of its engineering on that. Now I did read somewhere when someone here put an ls swap in that his pedal didn't return off the floor intermittently, the. Said he looked and forgot to reinstall that spring. Said it was a centering spring???? Is there a hydraulic kit we can swap over too? I have an a203 (????) heavy duty 3spd trans that I picked up from a member here, I have an a903 driveshaft without the ball and trunion that I'm going to install when I get the floor hump and shifter.

Anyhow, I'll clean all that up, but I hope I do t have to swap a clutch in yet. I don't have all my parts yet!!! It's my daily driver and I was curious if the soft pedal and not returning was a sign that it was on its way out. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated
 
The "over-center" spring provides pedal assist in both directions.
For all anyone knows the adjustment may have backed off on you. Addressing adjustments and/or possible faulty linkage components first will tell you if you need to pull it down.
There are hydraulic kits available.
 
Does your car have a additional return spring underneath on the clutch fork? Years ago I found I had to run enough spring down below to return the pedal.
 
340doc said:
Does your car have a additional return spring underneath on the clutch fork? Years ago I found I had to run enough spring down below to return the pedal.
Click to expand...

Honestly I don't know. I've been driving it to take the kids to school as this is my daily driver. But the pedal is getting really soft now. So I'm almost 100% sure it's the clutch. Wasn't planning on this yet as I still need a few parts to swap it to a 3 speed on the floor. I may just go ahead and swap the clutch >.<along with the drive shaft and then go back in a few weeks and swap the trans out. Hate doing this like this and having to go back and do it again. Haha.

I did check the linkage. I don't see any adjustments that can be made. Did I miss something?
 
There should be an adjustable rod connected to the fork at the bell housing. As the clutch wears it starts releasing closer to the floor and the play in the linkage increases. At least the trans itself is an easy swap if it comes to that!
 
Clutches wear.

The clutch rod is adjustable to compensate for that reason.
 
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a question concerning over center springs.
Why must the oc spring be removed when changing from the original 3 fork pressure plate to a diaphragm type pressure plate? At least most knowledgeable experts say it must be removed, but I baffled why?
 
ok, 65 Plymouth valiant with three on the tree. New clutch, and it still will not come back off the floor. I don't even feel it disengage.

When I pushed it in, something felt like it snapped in the pedal. Figured pressure plate or throw out bearing. Ok. No big deal. Got a clutch, snatched it all out. Put it back in.

And..........

Clutch is still on the floor. :(

So, I check linkage, nothing looks bent. Obviously some slop, but not more than a quarter inch. Push the pedal in, and it does not come back. At all. I've adjusted the push rod allllllllllllllllllllll the way out, put a new spring on the linkage, and still nada clutch. Wth am I missing?

I have double checked everything. Could something be actually bent that I'm not noticing???
 
Diaphragm clutch with the stock overspring still installed?
 
Yes. Factory replacement clutch. Only thing that's changed is the clutch. Every bit and bolt spring and plate went back in place.
 
So you have a new B&B 3 finger type (or similar) like this?
th?id=OIP.-SsisWMj8k6fazEwjydUxgEsEK&w=211&h=187&c=7&qlt=90&o=4&pid=1.jpg


I suspect something is broke or is moving on you that shouldn't be and you're not seeing it. You need to isolate each part and repair as necessary. The spring load of the clutch cover (pressure plate) should be enough to over come the pedal over center spring to at least cause the pedal to come off the floor and not just stay all the way down.
...Check the fit of the release bearing as it contacts the fingers. I recall someone having mismatched components where the bearing was too small in diameter or the fingers were too short.
 
Deemo said:
ok, 65 Plymouth valiant with three on the tree. New clutch, and it still will not come back off the floor. I don't even feel it disengage.

When I pushed it in, something felt like it snapped in the pedal. Figured pressure plate or throw out bearing. Ok. No big deal. Got a clutch, snatched it all out. Put it back in.

And..........

Clutch is still on the floor. :(

So, I check linkage, nothing looks bent. Obviously some slop, but not more than a quarter inch. Push the pedal in, and it does not come back. At all. I've adjusted the push rod allllllllllllllllllllll the way out, put a new spring on the linkage, and still nada clutch. Wth am I missing?

I have double checked everything. Could something be actually bent that I'm not noticing???
Click to expand...
Sounds exactly like what I'm going through with my car. My problem is the Z bar bracket which is welded to the frame from the factory. One of the 2 factory welds broke free probably a while ago and this put pressure on the inner fender which is now tearing. The bracket insteading of holding everything in alignment shifts outward and the clutch stays on the floor.
IMG_3760[1].JPG


Waiting on my friend who will be by next week to weld it and it will be much stronger than the the 2 small welds it left Michigan with.
 
Be careful guys. The op has 3 clutch related problem threads open. You might be responding to something you responded to before. I will see if I can merge the 2 similar threads to avoid confusion.
 
The one was a quick one I need to delete. The clutch plate fell out before I could get my hand up. Actually I broke my finger a few minutes before getting the trans out. (Note to self: DONT BE LAZY AND USE THE JACK). Not as strong as I used to be. But I had forgot about the first post wanting a second opinion

toolmanmike said:
Be careful guys. The op has 3 clutch related problem threads open. You might be responding to something you responded to before. I will see if I can merge the 2 similar threads to avoid confusion.
Click to expand...
Thanks for combining them. I do appreciate it. Was tired and frustrated with this because I need my car. It's my daily.

Daves69 said:
So you have a new B&B 3 finger type (or similar) like this?
View attachment 1715091743

I suspect something is broke or is moving on you that shouldn't be and you're not seeing it. You need to isolate each part and repair as necessary. The spring load of the clutch cover (pressure plate) should be enough to over come the pedal over center spring to at least cause the pedal to come off the floor and not just stay all the way down.
...Check the fit of the release bearing as it contacts the fingers. I recall someone having mismatched components where the bearing was too small in diameter or the fingers were too short.
Click to expand...

Yes it is a B&B 3 finger. The bearing is perfect for that. All a complete kit and I did check that to make sure that it would enhance the prongs correctly.

gtgto said:
Sounds exactly like what I'm going through with my car. My problem is the Z bar bracket which is welded to the frame from the factory. One of the 2 factory welds broke free probably a while ago and this put pressure on the inner fender which is now tearing. The bracket insteading of holding everything in alignment shifts outward and the clutch stays on the floor. View attachment 1715091747

Waiting on my friend who will be by next week to weld it and it will be much stronger than the the 2 small welds it left Michigan with.
Click to expand...

I will check that in the morning. I don't think the bracket is broken off. It does move with the pedal. Well, what's supposed to move anyway. The inner shaft that rotates.

I looked under at the clutch pedal itself and the bar that comes off of it and runs through the firewall does have a decent amount of play it. Any way of correcting the slack in those rods? Where the holes are drilled through it so the pins can push in? Could that be a cause?

I do have more springs or stronger springs as well.
 
Think I found the problem. On the z bar where the plate is welded to it that has the actual push rod that goes to the clutch lever has broken off the weld. So in turn the plate bent and cracked the z bar. Luckily I have a spare to put in.

IMG_1074.JPG
 
Problem solved. Thanks a ton guys. Wouldn't have been all over the z bar without y'all opinions

IMG_1075.JPG
 
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