ok guys, this forum is tremendously helpful, so hopefully somebody will have an easy fix... i just picked up a 67 dart motorless, but i got a slant 6 complete w/ trans for 175 bucks. the motor is in, now the wiring. Th distributor seems to be a newer style without points, and it has two wires and anyway i try to hook it up, i get no spark. The motor wont crank with the key, but when i jumper it at the relay with the key on, nothing. i read 13.5 volts at the coil. nothing at the plugs... help! and thanks in advance guys, i appreciate any input.
coil wiring
- Thread starter drewseph
- Start date
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412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
This post was pretty easy to find, it should answer your questions.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=183957
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=183957
412 Stroker
Well-Known Member
You ever try setting points on a slant??? can you say PITA?? but you are prolly correct, it would be cheaper too to get a points dizzy. haha, oh yeah and i forgot to welcome you to the site drewseph.
A reman'd dist' from a part store will have the points, etc.. in it and preset.
Bolt in and go.
To buy a ecm etc.. and wire it up may not be fruitful. We can't know if those previous attempts have killed the pick up in the dist' he has.
Thank you. I thought about it, but i really wanted to find a way to make this one work... My father was looking at the dizzy and used the word "breakerless", though I'm not sure what that means, he may not either (you know those old guys lol). Either way, any funds that go into this motor, take away from the 360 swap... But if need be, I will. I leave for some military training tmrw, but when I get back in two weeks I plan on going through this thing in more depth. I read the article on Madelectrical about the ammeter rewire suggestion, I'll be sure to do that too. I got all the signals working properly today, and most of the interior stuff working too, even the power antenna
Thanks again guys, I really appreciate the help.
PocketAces
Well-Known Member
"breakerless" just means no breaker points or no points.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
Figure on $40 to buy a rebuilt points distributor. Or, $20 for the control module ( called an ECU) and last time I checked the wiring harness for converting from points to electronic ignition was about $20. So either way you are going to spend $40 ish. The choice is do you want easy wiring (points) or a better more reliable ignition (electronic).
The other option is go to a junk yard that has some old cars and harvest the parts you need.
The other option is go to a junk yard that has some old cars and harvest the parts you need.
lilhows340
Well-Known Member
Can you show pics of what you have.
DGC333, this is good stuff. ill look up where to find the ecu/adapter wiring harness, but does anybody have an application that would use this distributor from the factory? that may help my search... the trans that came with this engine has an extra set of wires from it that my original 904 (that was in the trunk) doesnt have. i read somewhere that this hints that the trans is a lock-up, so i would assume this is a much later model motor/trans setup. Thanks everybody for the help.
*Update*
I replaced a few items and now the car cranks with the key.
After reviewing the posts here, I am wondering if my question needs to be a little more basic- Im a big dumb chevy guy after all
This two-wire distributor cannot simple be wired up and work? I need an ignition control module of some kind? If this is the case, Ill go buy a reman'd unit from the store tmrw.
Everything else on the car seems to be working ok, just gotta get it lookin pretty now. This is my first mopar, and I am absolutely in love with it.
I replaced a few items and now the car cranks with the key.
After reviewing the posts here, I am wondering if my question needs to be a little more basic- Im a big dumb chevy guy after all
This two-wire distributor cannot simple be wired up and work? I need an ignition control module of some kind? If this is the case, Ill go buy a reman'd unit from the store tmrw.
Everything else on the car seems to be working ok, just gotta get it lookin pretty now. This is my first mopar, and I am absolutely in love with it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you have a two-wire distributor there are TWO possibilities:
1 You PROBABLY have a later model Mopar factory breakerless distributor.
YOU NEED an ignition module and wiring to complete this
2 You COULD have an aftermarket Pertronix conversion, which replaces the points
You need to look inside to find out
Factory Mopar breakerless:
Has a magnetic pickup coil, and unless cut off, has a two - wire rubber connector on the end
Pertronix you can Google, here's one for the /6:
If you have a Mopar breakerless distributor, there are a couple of ways to go:
Find a system out of a junker to get the harness, see if you can buy connector pigtails at the parts store, or buy the Mopar Performance conversion kit
Here is the wiring for the Mopar systems. If you get an older (5 pin) ECU you MUST use a 4 pin resistor. You cannot tell by counting the ECU pins, because some newer 4 pin ECUs have 5 physical pins.
If you have a newer 4 pin ECU, you can wire it for EITHER a 2 or 4 pin resistor, as the other side of the resistor is not used. The only advantage to that, is if you get your hands on a 5 pin box, it will plug right in and operate
What is NOT shown in these diagrams is that your original brown coil bypass connects at the junction of the resistor and the coil+ terminal. This is the "ignition bypass" If you have the original wiring in the car, for the original 2 pin resistor, this will already be in place
"Existing wire" labled at the top far right of the page is the "dark blue" ignition feed coming to the original resistor.
older 5 pin box:
newer 4 pin box:
Another route you can take is a GM HEI module. I did not go the route of many with fancy coils. The thing runs fine with a stock coil
The GM module has a "tit" on the bottom which you must either break off or drill a clearance hole. Mount it on a flat metal surface or heat sink, use the thermal grease and be sure the mounting screws ground the unit. Then wire it up as shown. It is important to hook the distributor connector up as shown. You can get a 2 wire "trailer connector" from any parts store to get the connector you need
I run mine with NO ballast resistor, so jumper the ballast wires together, and hook the old coil + wire back up to the coil as it was.
1 You PROBABLY have a later model Mopar factory breakerless distributor.
YOU NEED an ignition module and wiring to complete this
2 You COULD have an aftermarket Pertronix conversion, which replaces the points
You need to look inside to find out
Factory Mopar breakerless:
Has a magnetic pickup coil, and unless cut off, has a two - wire rubber connector on the end
Pertronix you can Google, here's one for the /6:
If you have a Mopar breakerless distributor, there are a couple of ways to go:
Find a system out of a junker to get the harness, see if you can buy connector pigtails at the parts store, or buy the Mopar Performance conversion kit
Here is the wiring for the Mopar systems. If you get an older (5 pin) ECU you MUST use a 4 pin resistor. You cannot tell by counting the ECU pins, because some newer 4 pin ECUs have 5 physical pins.
If you have a newer 4 pin ECU, you can wire it for EITHER a 2 or 4 pin resistor, as the other side of the resistor is not used. The only advantage to that, is if you get your hands on a 5 pin box, it will plug right in and operate
What is NOT shown in these diagrams is that your original brown coil bypass connects at the junction of the resistor and the coil+ terminal. This is the "ignition bypass" If you have the original wiring in the car, for the original 2 pin resistor, this will already be in place
"Existing wire" labled at the top far right of the page is the "dark blue" ignition feed coming to the original resistor.
older 5 pin box:
newer 4 pin box:
Another route you can take is a GM HEI module. I did not go the route of many with fancy coils. The thing runs fine with a stock coil
The GM module has a "tit" on the bottom which you must either break off or drill a clearance hole. Mount it on a flat metal surface or heat sink, use the thermal grease and be sure the mounting screws ground the unit. Then wire it up as shown. It is important to hook the distributor connector up as shown. You can get a 2 wire "trailer connector" from any parts store to get the connector you need
I run mine with NO ballast resistor, so jumper the ballast wires together, and hook the old coil + wire back up to the coil as it was.
Thank you so much for this info sir, this is exactly what I needed...
The unfortunate part is that I bought a factory distributor the day before you posted this
Maybe the parts store still has the core and I can get my money back haha. Thanks again!
The unfortunate part is that I bought a factory distributor the day before you posted this
Maybe the parts store still has the core and I can get my money back haha. Thanks again!
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