Collaborative early a experiment

[Treblig]

Treblig, why don't you go buy an early A , get a V8 drop it in, and figure what mods are needed. It seems that you are making a business out of modified manifolds. You want someone to pay up front, do all of the work, document it , do modifications and give you the info you need to sell more manifolds. Not looking for a fight,I see that your offer is weak. Probably the reason noone wants to jump on board. Good luck in your manifold business.

No offense taken, but:
I guess you haven't been reading these posts??? I don't need any business from Early A owners!!! I can't keep up with the manifold orders for 67 and up A bodies (when I'm advertising). The problem is that I've been asked by numerous Early A owners if my manifolds will work on their cars. I'm not about to lie and say, "Buy my manifolds, they will work!!" I received so much help in many areas with my '69 Barracuda that I'm just trying to "give back" buy helping out. That's why I was willing to pay shipping one way and that's why I will absolutely "buy back" the manifolds if they don't work. Why is that not a good deal...where is the risk on the FABO member's part?????? Worst case scenario, I lose shipping one way and the Early A person loses shipping one way. Why oh why would I be willing to lose money to help out??? If it doesn't work I lose 30-40 bucks!!! Yes, they would have to document everything and do the work, just like I did when I used the manifolds on my car. Members doing their own work isn't anything new, in fact most members would rather do the work themselves anyway (I do).
You say my offer is weak??? Would you spend $300 on a set of manifolds, give them away they pay for shipping them to someone for free only to find out that they don't work. Then if they do work I'm out $300 plus shipping for what??? I'd be better off just selling my manifolds to 67 and up owners and never worry about Early A owners.......Who is going to help them when it comes to good flowing manifolds???

Treblig

 

[barbee6043]

I didn't mean to muddy the water. I HAVE a set of 273 manifolds I intent to use on my car, its just a driver. I don't need high flow manifolds on the stock 318 for my use. I was just offering to drop in the engine using Treblig's manifold. NO I don't need to buy the manifolds, and not looking for free stuff. and I don't have it in my budget to pay shipping to see if these work.
be best for someone else to supply their car for this test that needs a pair of working maniforlds. sorry guys.

 

[Treblig]

I didn't mean to muddy the water. I HAVE a set of 273 manifolds I intent to use on my car, its just a driver. I don't need high flow manifolds on the stock 318 for my use. I was just offering to drop in the engine using Treblig's manifold. NO I don't need to buy the manifolds, and not looking for free stuff. and I don't have it in my budget to pay shipping to see if these work.
be best for someone else to supply their car for this test that needs a pair of working maniforlds. sorry guys.

I misunderstood. I appreciate the offer. If you lived within 60 miles of me I wouldn't mind at all lending you the manifolds. I understand the budget situation, been there done that!! As it turns out...you were just trying to help!!!!

thanks again and thanks for offering.

treblig

 

[mopar!!!]

I know it has been a while but I just read your posts. I measured my 66 Barracuda and it is 27 3/8 between the raised places on the inner fenders. Other than there it is 27 3/4. I have been looking at a 340 with the big manifolds for my car and wonder if they will fit.

 

[Treblig]

I know it has been a while but I just read your posts. I measured my 66 Barracuda and it is 27 3/8 between the raised places on the inner fenders. Other than there it is 27 3/4. I have been looking at a 340 with the big manifolds for my car and wonder if they will fit.

Well thanks mopar!! I writing all these dimensions in a folder to get a good average. As to whether the big manifolds will fit....Other FABO members say they will. I've saved some of the posts that say if you have manual steering the big manifolds fit. With power steering it requires a little grinding. Then the type of motor mount also makes a difference because old worn out mount tend to let the engine sag causing the driver's manifold to touch the steering box. Tall motor mounts (shumacher or shims) tend to lift the engine a little higher making it easier to clear the steering box. Also it makes a big difference which 340 driver manifold you use. The late 60s 340 driver is designed a little different so it clears the steering box and the steering shaft a little easier. BUT...I've never actually installed the big manifolds myself because I own a 69 Barracuda and do not have access to an Early A. As you can see in these pics, the late 60s 340 driver is shaped different when you compare it to the 70s 340.
The 60s 340 is on the right and the 70s has those heavy ribs where you bolt the heat shield. I'm looking for someone to document the installation process so that other Early A members can have more exhaust manifold options. If the big manifolds actually do fit without any major modifications then more Early A owners will know what they can an can't do to get better flowing cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Thanks for posting the info....

treblig

 

[Treblig]

Still looking for a volunteer....just read the first post of this thread.

Treblig

 

[jeppe swede]

Hi
i installed a 69 340 s motor from a 69 cuda. In a 65 dart gt 10-15 years ago. Cut off the stering axels thick bit and shortend it x inches dont remember cut down the hardys dia . Smaller dia stering axel . Thats what i remember. What i understand you make these manifolds by your self. What do they cost and shipping to sweden i byu a set from you if the price aint too steep for my car found. And do the work and post all the info and pics you ask for. The car in question this time is a 64 dart gt 360 engine no power what so ever single main brake cyl. Or just bye them if it fits my wallet thankful for a answer ever which way. And i got the nessery knowlege been vorking with cars at work and spare time for 30+ years both us cars and european cars. Done some drag racing too in the mid 80s.

Jeppe swede

Ps spells like a rat

 

[Treblig]

Hi
i installed a 69 340 s motor from a 69 cuda. In a 65 dart gt 10-15 years ago. Cut off the stering axels thick bit and shortend it x inches dont remember cut down the hardys dia . Smaller dia stering axel . Thats what i remember. What i understand you make these manifolds by your self. What do they cost and shipping to sweden i byu a set from you if the price aint too steep for my car found. And do the work and post all the info and pics you ask for. The car in question this time is a 64 dart gt 360 engine no power what so ever single main brake cyl. Or just bye them if it fits my wallet thankful for a answer ever which way. And i got the nessery knowlege been vorking with cars at work and spare time for 30+ years both us cars and european cars. Done some drag racing too in the mid 80s.

Jeppe swede

Ps spells like a rat

Well it's nice to know you're doing so much with Mopars over in Sweden!! One of the requirements for a volunteer was that you had to live within 1000 miles. The main reason is that I was willing to pay for shipping the manifolds back to me if they didn't work out. Shipping to Sweden would probably be more than the cost of the manifolds. I was willing to sell a "machined" 360 manifold and a late 60s 340 manifold for only $300 plus shipping to an early A owner. That's cheaper than any 340/360 set I have ever sold. At $300 I would barely break even and after paying for shipping back to be I would actually lose money. But I was willing to lose a little to help early A owners solve an important problem. I was selling them for that price ($300) to make it easier for someone to attempt the installation on an early A without investing too much.
I normally sell 340/360 manifold sets for $320 plus shipping. For two manifolds with 2 1/4" exit holes that's a pretty good price considering they are sand blasted, painted with high heat paint and heat cured for 12 hours!! Let me know what you think, I know shipping will be well over $150 by itself so I don't think it would be a good deal for you or me (if I have to buy them back).

thanks,
Treblig

 

[jeppe swede]

No i wont send them back if they dont fit. I buy them from you try or install them give you all the info if its makeable if it dont work. iI sell them here in sweden those are hard to get your hands on here. Or i just buy a set of manifolds from you and thats the end of it. And do not paint them i will have to grind them . did it withe 340s in the 65 dart but i dont remember how mutch grinding it took to make em fit. and 500 dollars is not to steep for me. If you have a set of 340 manifolds ill pay up. No hasstle for you mutcho work for me. I will fix it some way. The only option for is tti headers and they cost about 1800 bucks if i am lucky.So i can work a bit for the differnce in price.

jeppe swede the bad speller

 

[Treblig]

No i wont send them back if they dont fit. I buy them from you try or install them give you all the info if its makeable if it dont work. iI sell them here in sweden those are hard to get your hands on here. Or i just buy a set of manifolds from you and thats the end of it. And do not paint them i will have to grind them . did it withe 340s in the 65 dart but i dont remember how mutch grinding it took to make em fit. and 500 dollars is not to steep for me. If you have a set of 340 manifolds ill pay up. No hasstle for you mutcho work for me. I will fix it some way. The only option for is tti headers and they cost about 1800 bucks if i am lucky.So i can work a bit for the differnce in price.

jeppe swede the bad speller

You might not spell too good but you definitely get your point across. I understand and I don't mind selling you a set if you're sure that you won't have to send them back. But you'll still have to make sure and post your work/results here for all the Early A owners. You need to tell me what you want, exactly...340 driver (late 60s), 360 "machined" magnum with 2 1/4" exit hole, "properly flared" stubs pipes or whatever you need. I will also need to know how I would ship them as I have never shipped over seas (only to Canada). Here are some pics of the stub down pipes..one have a flat flare (340) and the 360 has a bell flare. The stub pipes come with the adapter flange (one for 340 and one for 360). If you don't need the stub pipes that's OK!! In the 4th pic you'll see five 340 driver manifolds the first (bottom) silver one is a 70s manifold all the others are 60s manifolds. You'll get one of the late 60 manifolds. In the last pic you'll see a bunch of passenger manifolds, the left silver one is a 360 magnum. Let me how to ship and I'll try and get a shipping estimate.

thanks,
Treblig

 

[73 Swinger 8]

pm sent

 

[65 Dartman]

I will also need to know how I would ship them as I have never shipped over seas (only to Canada).

thanks,
Treblig

Don't use FedEx or UPS as they kill overseas buyers with their fees - ask anyone from Canada. I have shipped stuff to Ulf in Sweden and by USPS the shipping is not bad.

 

[jeppe swede]

Ok
i will look around for the best chepest way to ship the stuff. the passenger side manifold to the right of the magnum fits what . But if you want i can try the 60s left and the magnum right side. no problemo the stubs to so i can fiddle around with them and do the work . And send over the info. Read the other tread about the magnum manifolds on both sides but it looked to be tighter than the 340 manifold on the left side. What about the oil filter straight or angeld. long or short.

jeppe swede the bad speller

And by the way thanks in advance for the help

 

[Treblig]

Ok
i will look around for the best chepest way to ship the stuff. the passenger side manifold to the right of the magnum fits what . But if you want i can try the 60s left and the magnum right side. no problemo the stubs to so i can fiddle around with them and do the work . And send over the info. Read the other tread about the magnum manifolds on both sides but it looked to be tighter than the 340 manifold on the left side. What about the oil filter straight or angeld. long or short.

jeppe swede the bad speller

And by the way thanks in advance for the help

The silver one to the right of the magnum is also a "machined" 360 magnum (2 1/4" exit hole). It flows the same but I only have ONE of those. Some members like for the exhaust to exit further back so I get those as well and machine them. With the regular magnum (left one) you'll probably need the 90 degree oil filter adapter with the one on the right I'm pretty sure it goes over the oil filter so you don't need the adapter but I've never tried one on an early A.
And yes, I also sell the machined "Dakota" driver's manifold. It's the one on the far left of the 4 in a row. I've heard they will work on the early As but you have to modify the steering shaft and sometimes grind a little on the manual steering box. A set of "machined" Dakota driver with a "machined" Magnum passenger only cost $230 plus shipping but it's probably more work on the driver's side.

Treblig

 

[340duster340]

66 dart auto trans, manual steer. i will not be using OEM shift linkage.


i am have test fit HP manifolds with no problems.

 

[340duster340]

engine still jacked up here. w/o PS box there are shatgobs of space.

 

[340duster340]

here is your challenge on the drivers side.

passenger side is a slam dunk

 

[Treblig]

engine still jacked up here. w/o PS box there are shatgobs of space.

From everything I've read the 60s 340 driver's manifold will absolutely fit the early As. But it's never been documented well enough for me to feel comfortable about guaranteeing that will fit when I sell them. I don't own (or know anybody who does) an early A body. The issues usually are: a little grinding on the steering box (not much), some shims under the motor mounts, steering shaft repositioning, swapping steering shaft u-joints, etc. Some motor mounts set the engine higher making more room over the steering box. Some members loosen the steering column at the firewall and scoot it over a 1/4" to 1/2". I know you can do it but until I see good documentation I can't in good conscious tell an early A owner that they will fit without know the exact modifications required.
340Duster340...Please take lots of pics, show all the problems that you solve and let us know how it goes. Many, many early A owners want better exhaust but do not want headers

Thanks,
treblig

 

[340duster340]

for sure... figure w/in the next 5 months if i don't have the engine in this car, its going to get deep spaced (another kid on the way)...so when i get back in the garage and wrenching on this i will shoot you a note to get what ever details you need. it will get done before October!

+ like your donut solution. i have a crafty exhaust guy, but will spoon feed that one to him. i have also seen guys neck down from the manifold and then step up to larger diameter once clear of the t-bars and steering.

at the end of the day, if you have an early A, if you want free-er flowing exhaust your running spit-fires or fender-well headers. so i think the market here will be tight.

 

[Treblig]

for sure... figure w/in the next 5 months if i don't have the engine in this car, its going to get deep spaced (another kid on the way)...so when i get back in the garage and wrenching on this i will shoot you a note to get what ever details you need. it will get done before October!

+ like your donut solution. i have a crafty exhaust guy, but will spoon feed that one to him. i have also seen guys neck down from the manifold and then step up to larger diameter once clear of the t-bars and steering.

at the end of the day, if you have an early A, if you want free-er flowing exhaust your running spit-fires or fender-well headers. so i think the market here will be tight.

That "donut thing" is kind of expensive. A 2 1/2" mandrel bend donut is not cheap at all. The only way I break even on the 120 degree 340 down pipe is to buy the expensive donut and cut it into three pieces. That way I can divide the cost of the donut by 3. That's the only way I can make and sell them. If somebody wanted to make their own they would have to buy the whole donut and throw the other 2 /3 of it away because you only need 1/3 of it for one car. That's how I keep the cost down, even then you get the mandrel bend donut piece, a properly flared stub pipe and the adapter flange for only $75!!! The donut alone cost over $50. Not to mention a few hours of cutting, fitting, welding and grinding/filing. It's really not worth it to me but I know FABO members need the stuff so I go ahead and do it anyway.

PS - Don't let your exhaust guy choke down your pipes to make the sharp bend where it hooks up to the 340 manifold.

Thanks,
Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Well looks like someone is taking the time to document the installation of the 60's 340 Driver's manifold in an Early A body. "65 Dartman" is doing the install in his 66 Dart. I've also sent a set of similar manifolds to another member who is also installing them in an early A body. Things are looking up for the early A folks!!

Here is "65 Dartman's" thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=251422&page=2

Now before I get a bunch of members saying that this has been done before, let me tell you that I've also read about it in other "older" threads/posts. But I've been looking for better documentation because I am the one who gets tons of PMs from Early A owners looking for answers. I personally don't mind but I need solid info to pass on to those folks who want to purchase the manifolds I sell. I don't like to (and I won't) sell manifolds to FABO members unless I'm sure that they can use them in their application. Members who send me PMs want to know exactly what they need to do to install large hole manifolds in their early As. Since I don't own an early A I can't, in good faith, tell them what they need to do. But members like 65 Dartman and others can show the way. I can use this info to answer the many, many PMs I get from early A owners who want to use the larger manifolds on their cars.

I own a 69 Barracuda and can answer any manifold questions about these models (second Gen A bodies) but since I don't have an early A I won't assume anything until I've seen it well documented here on FABO.


thanks,
treblig

 

[340duster340]

340duster340's thread

but to bump you up, yes they do fit. i will get tons-o-pictures after its all buttoned up for you. always happy to help the mopar folks out there.

especially the early a's as we get no love.

i am also running an FFI column adapter (power to manual) and will let you know if it clears with the OEM coupler. it will be close.

 

[paulclark]

Great thread! Would volunteer if the time/place were right. Let me know if you need more measurements from my 63-4 Darts, one has engine out currently.

 

[Treblig]

Great thread! Would volunteer if the time/place were right. Let me know if you need more measurements from my 63-4 Darts, one has engine out currently.

Thanks Paul, But I have someone trying the installation as we speak (write). I just have to wait for the results.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

340duster340's thread

but to bump you up, yes they do fit. i will get tons-o-pictures after its all buttoned up for you. always happy to help the mopar folks out there.

especially the early a's as we get no love.

i am also running an FFI column adapter (power to manual) and will let you know if it clears with the OEM coupler. it will be close.

Thanks for all the pics so far. We're going to need lots of details to pave the road for other Early A members. Like I said, it's been done before but we just need better info. I'm also sending a pair of my large hole Dakota driver with 360 magnum passenger to another member in Houston (early A). I also asked him to document everything here on FABO so that there are more options. The "machined" Dakota driver/360 Magnum passenger manifolds don't cost as mush as the 340 but they flow just as good.

treblig