Comp cams xe268h for 318

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AJ/FormS said:
late 318 pistons have a depression in the center, which is called a dish. at .022 deep that may be 3cc's
adding it all up; 13+3+8.6gasket+63heads=87.6cc and at stock 3.91 bore this maths out to 8.45SCr......... not too bad, in theory.
Even if the dish is 6cc, you are still at 8.2
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Mine is a late 318 and it doesn't have a dish. How late did they start that? My 360 (1977) has dished pistons
 
Am I looking at the wrong pics? I was;DOH. Sorry.
so which pistons are down .062 to .067?
I'm thinking my 73's are dished, but I haven't seen them since 2001,lol.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Am I looking at the wrong pics? DOH
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That is ok! Lol I figured you was!! I kinda jumbled all those pics up it is confusing sorry about that. Do you think either one of those can be saved without boring? I'm at summit now looking at 360 pistons. ;)
 
dartfreak75 said:
That is ok! Lol I figured you was!! I kinda jumbled all those pics up it is confusing sorry about that. Do you think either one of those can be saved without boring? I'm at summit now looking at 360 pistons. ;)
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I'm with Mike.
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I'd have to be really desperate to slam that back together without boring, and so I would throw the teener away; cuz you know..... 47 cubes is a lotta lotta more fun. And the 360 is an easy hi-compression,tight-Q, build. I'd put a 2bbl and logs on it before I'd spend a nickle on the 318. Oh wait, I already did that once,I was poor too at one time,Ok still not rich, but you get the point,lol. Everybody starts out in life with a slap on the azz, and bare naked.
 
Thank you friend!! That's probably what I'm gonna do! Probably be starting a new thread soon "budget 360 build" haha
One question with the 360 my old harmonic balancer is messed up so I'm gonna have to buy a new. Is it a bolt on deal? Or where it is externally balanced does the new one have to be "balanced" to the engine?
 
In all likelihood your new pistons are not gonna be the same weight as the current ones, or even close; so a rebalance is gonna be mandatory. Grab a balancer off any 360 of like style, and you are good to go. You will need a special puller to remove or replace it. LAs are different from Magnums. Used are probably OK (mine has a qtr million miles on it.) One thing I would do tho is check the indexing BEFORE you send all away to be balanced.
 
AJ/FormS said:
In all likelihood your new pistons are not gonna be the same weight as te current ones, or not even close; so a rebalance is gonna be mandatory. Grab a balancer off any 360 of like style, and you are good to go. You will need a special puller to remove or replace it.
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I have the puller the old one is already removed. The the rubber ring between the two pieces is rotten and the top piece is crooked. So if I can closely match the weight of the pistons it wont need rebalance?
 
In theory that is correct. But just try to find a cheap hi-compression piston at factory weight. I wouldn't spend a lotta time looking; I'd just order the KB107s.
Maybe someone on FABO has done the homework.
In any case the 107s are quite light at 502 grams,versus the factory slugs. They mightabin 545 or 592,I can't recall. The balance shop will need all your reciprocating parts including the balancer and either the TC or an aftermarket flexplate; to figure out a new external balance factor and set it up. That is the cheapest.The factor goes onto the TC or F-plate, the balancer is usually not touched. Bring them the parts they ask for, and they will give you your options.
 
If you buy the KB107's and stick them in a magnum, the stock pistons are actually lighter, so mallory needs to be added to the crank $$$$

Mag pistons are lighter than LA pistons, at this point I would go to a local wrecking yard and price a running mag engine.
I think reality is, you just need a running engine to get the car moving.
 
sireland67 said:
If you buy the KB107's and stick them in a magnum, the stock pistons are actually lighter, so mallory needs to be added to the crank $$$$

Mag pistons are lighter than LA pistons, at this point I would go to a local wrecking yard and price a running mag engine.
I think reality is, you just need a running engine to get the car moving.
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Yea that is the idea but I keep running into road blocks Haha guess that is the name of them game tho.. I will figure it out. I found some speed pro pistons I cant find a weight tho.
 
AJ/FormS said:
In theory that is correct. But just try to find a cheap hi-compression piston at factory weight. I wouldn't spend a lotta time looking; I'd just order the KB107s.
Maybe someone on FABO has done the homework.
In any case the 107s are quite light at 502 grams,versus the factory slugs. They mightabin 545 or 592,I can't recall. The balance shop will need all your reciprocating parts including the balancer and either the TC or an aftermarket flexplate; to figure out a new external balance factor and set it up. That is the cheapest.The factor goes onto the TC or F-plate, the balancer is usually not touched. Bring them the parts they ask for, and they will give you your options.
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Ok so I found some numbers. The kb 107 weight is 524. I found some speed pro h116. They weigh 567 vs stock at 584 (according to my book) if that is accurate is 18 grams close enough to not rebalance?
 
According to their website the total weight is 721 with the pin. I guess I just need to weigh of mine and see. Fun fun.
 
My 1999 KB catalog #006 lists the 107s at 502 plus 132=634
The 190s are listed at 581+132= 713, but they have a .050Quench dome, that you would have to mill some off to fit your chamber. These would make an easy +.005 deck height, and,.034Q with a closed chamber head, and maybe with careful pin selection, would be a very close match. At pistons .005 up and 63cc aluminum heads, this is close to 11/1 Scr. Factory J heads might drop that to 9.8.Pretty good number for iron.
dartfreak75 said:
And hand Grenades!!! Lol
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ohhhhh, I forgot about incendiary devices.
 
If the Sealed Power version interest you, there is 3 variations of the H116CP piston. Part # H116CP and the over size, then there is part # H116CPY and the over size then there is H116CPX and the oversize. The differences is in the compression distance of each one , The H116CP is the tallest (and most expensive of the 3) then the "Y" and then the "X", the "X" is the same compression distance as the 4 notch 405 version and the cheapest and the "Y" is in-between price wise and comp distance wise. It weighs in at 734.1 g's with the pin as a reference (This was a .030 over for size)
 
Question of upgrading from 318 to 360: well how about getting a motor mount kit from Schumacher and just going toward 5.7L Hemi? i.e. forget all about LA small block and move up to the new generation. Junkyard upgrade.
 
Dart they make ridge reamers to take the ridge out
just don't go too far :)
as said way above check the taper
Taper within spec try the hone
taper outside spec save grief and bore it
 
Wyrmrider said:
Dart they make ridge reamers to take the ridge out
just don't go too far :)
as said way above check the taper
Taper within spec try the hone
taper outside spec save grief and bore it
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Yea I'm watching one on Ebay now. In light of the balance issue I'm probably just gonna stick to the original plan and try and save the 318. I'm gonna try clean them up and hone them and rering. I orders a bore gauge so I can check the bore dia and taper. Hopefully I can get it to seal! I'm gonna save the 360 and do it right!
 
Grunchy said:
Question of upgrading from 318 to 360: well how about getting a motor mount kit from Schumacher and just going toward 5.7L Hemi? i.e. forget all about LA small block and move up to the new generation. Junkyard upgrade.
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I have thought about that! Same problem $$$$. I have a buddy that has a complete one with computer. But no transmission. And it has over 200k so it needs rebuilding. He paid close to 500. So your looking at machine work and new pistons etc etc!! It would be fun tho.
 
Wyrmrider said:
Dart they make ridge reamers to take the ridge out
just don't go too far :)
as said way above check the taper
Taper within spec try the hone
taper outside spec save grief and bore it
Click to expand...
I didn't cut the ridge in my 273. 100,000 miles and the pistons came out without breaking a ring. There was some taper so I had it bored.
 
@nm9stheham
I finally found some some time and got my heads cced today! They came around 63cc out of the 8 they varied around 4ccs the smallest 60 the most was 64. Could have been used error lol but I got an idea anyway. I'm going with 63!
 
dartfreak75 said:
Yea I'm watching one on Ebay now. In light of the balance issue I'm probably just gonna stick to the original plan and try and save the 318. I'm gonna try clean them up and hone them and rering. I orders a bore gauge so I can check the bore dia and taper. Hopefully I can get it to seal! I'm gonna save the 360 and do it right!
Click to expand...

You spent money on a bore gauge, on a budget rebuild?
You have calipers, you can cut a coat hanger to a little longer length, grind it to size and check bore taper cheap.

I carry a couple of cut to length coat hangers with me when searching for standard bore blocks at swap meats.
 
Back in the 50's we could do a stoveblot chevy hone and re ring and grind the valves in half a day
we used non moly rings
they would run for a surprisingly long time
not much compression or rpm
had a fleet of late 40's early 50's chevy trucks- some with splash lube to the mains
I still see one around every once in awhile
earliest I still have is 69 and that's a different motor
 
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