Compression Ratio per Camshaft Size

-

JedIEG

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
62
Reaction score
28
Location
Indiana
Looking at the cam manufacturers, CR suggestions are all over the place for the same duration cams. For example, 230-240 @.050 range cams I see anything from Comp suggesting 9:1 to Heughs suggesting 10:5 or even 11.5:1.

What are people's real experience with CR and cam sizing if you are trying to stay on pump gas? Any calculations that work well?
 
LSA and intake closing point both factor into selecting a camshaft as well. Seeing high compression requirements is usually an indicator of a camshaft design with a late intake closing event (the farther past BDC the intake valve closes, the more pressure it lets escape from the cylinder) and a significant amount of overlap. The recommended RPM range is usually higher up the scale than designs that don't recommend as much compression.
 
Just stay at or under 10:1 for a street car and pump gas is your friend. It's so simple.
 
I’m going with a firm “it depends”.
Yes, with adhesive tabs.
DEPENDS.jpg
 
Were those your heads Seevidio did ? I just rewatched one of those vids an hour ago .
Nice work !

Looking at the cam manufacturers, CR suggestions are all over the place for the same duration cams. For example, 230-240 @.050 range cams I see anything from Comp suggesting 9:1 to Heughs suggesting 10:5 or even 11.5:1.

What are people's real experience with CR and cam sizing if you are trying to stay on pump gas? Any calculations that work well?
There is a lot of wiggle room in this quest to the point someone may even say it’s a loaded question.

When I was building my wife’s 360, I asked a few friends and forum members about the combo in which I thought I’d be driving up the dynamic ratio to high for the 93 octane. They all said to go for it.

Do realize that the engine set up plus cam size has to work with the converter, (I had a custom converter built and it’s kind of low on the stall, but works and drives great!) rear end gears (3.55’s) and tire size 26X10-15’s as well as the cars weight as driven fully loaded. Full tank of gas and people if it’s in the street.
(IDK the cars weight)

The car is a ‘67 Barracuda, manual steering, 4 wheel manual drum brakes. Looks stock, it’s all metal and carries a spare tire.

Here’s what I did. Camshaft last.

360 with zero decked KB-107’s + .030
.028 X 4.04 Cometic head gaskets
Trickflow heads - 60cc chambers
This produces an 11.41-1 compression ratio that runs just fine on pump 93.

Now the camshaft used with 1.6 rockers for a .573/.569 lift

IMG_0668.jpeg




This kind of cam has a recommended range of 8-1 - 10-1 BUT this also depends on who made the camshaft. Crane would suggest as high as 11-1 - 11.5-1 easy. Comp is a full point lower, easy. Others may even suggest it more than 9.0-1 because it’s a street grind with easy going lobes even for a roller.

The more you can get (compression) and run it on pump gas, the more return in power and mileage you’ll get. This will also require you to tune the distributor so the t doesn’t ping knock or over heat.

While I don’t call this car fast by any means, it’s more of the gear ratio holding it back from speeding down the 124 quickly.

But man o man does this thing just keep on turning rpm’s and charging the top end like nobodies biz!


Just stay at or under 10:1 for a street car and pump gas is your friend. It's so simple.
HOMERUN advice there.
I’m going with a firm “it depends”.
Absolutely!!!!!
 
This produces an 11.41-1 compression ratio that runs just fine on pump 93.
This gives me more comfort. If you get that 360 to run with a 220-230 cam with 11.4:1 and not detonate like crazy I feel better. I'm looking at a 230-240 cam with 10.5:1 mostly to keep the dish size on the piston under control.
 
This gives me more comfort. If you get that 360 to run with a 220-230 cam with 11.4:1 and not detonate like crazy I feel better. I'm looking at a 230-240 cam with 10.5:1 mostly to keep the dish size on the piston under control.

The engine doesn’t detonate at all. I use a MSD distributor. I honestly don’t really like it. It lacks adjustability. I can’t get it where I’d like it to run at. I’d like to run it more aggressively.
But it runs fine.

Screw the dish piston. Use flat tops. Use a thicker gasket to lower the compression. You really don’t want to exceed .050 in the piston to head distance since this is the line where most agree that the quench is lost.

The below is a quick calculation I did at Wallace racing on a .030 - 360 w/zero deck pistons and a .050 head gasket which leaves you at 10.48-1. OK, let’s round that up to 10.5-1.

IMG_3477.png
 
Vixen's slant 6 is a measured 10.6:1 with a 250@ .050 on a 108 camshaft with over 175 PSI cranking pressure and doesn't detonate on pump premium. She doesn't detonate on 87 either, but she doesn't run near as well. And she has the crappiest early most open chamber head.
 
If you take out the fuels ability to handle it, should be able to run every cam at say very low cr of 7:1 just gonna have the least possible power curve unless you go with even less cr. And each bump up in cr is just gonna add power across the entire powerband, rule of thumb is like 3% per point all the way say to race cr 14-17:1 cr.

Question is how much cr can you run on the gas your willing to run for a given combo, or could be what's the least cr your willing to run for a given combo or somewhere in between. Like PRH said it depends.

Unless you know "YOU" not just cause some others can/able get away with say 10-12 cr on the street wth a given combo, I'd be cautious last thing is you want is a pinging mess of an engine.
 
If you take out the fuels ability to handle it, should be able to run every cam at say very low cr of 7:1 just gonna have the least possible power curve unless you go with even less cr. And each bump up in cr is just gonna add power across the entire powerband, rule of thumb is like 3% per point all the way say to race cr 14-17:1 cr.

Question is how much cr can you run on the gas your willing to run for a given combo, or could be what's the least cr your willing to run for a given combo or somewhere in between. Like PRH said it depends.

Unless you know "YOU" not just cause some others can/able get away with say 10-12 cr on the street wth a given combo, I'd be cautious last thing is you want is a pinging mess of an engine.
Lots of truth to this. Not totally on board with the rule of thumb for percentages of power gain per point of compression though. It’s a variable thing.

The quality of the stations fuel can vary even by the same brand. I stand by my statement above. Runs and drives fine. It’s been about 5 years now.

Aluminum heads seem to be really good for what most think will be to much compression and a small cam. Which just have me saying thanks to those that told me not to worry and just go for it.

The above combo has 18*’s initial. The rest is have to look up.
It handles W.O.T. Hot or cold here in Florida. Before anyone cracks cold jokes about Florida, it has gotten to 28*F where I’m at during the night. Thanks heavens it doesn’t last!
 
This gives me more comfort. If you get that 360 to run with a 220-230 cam with 11.4:1 and not detonate like crazy I feel better. I'm looking at a 230-240 cam with 10.5:1 mostly to keep the dish size on the piston under control.
It's NOT about the Scr.
It's about the cylinder pressure.

What I'm about to preach, is for if you drive like me; and it's a preach, so, it's my opinion.
My short-block set-up is like Rumbles. With Alloy heads she has run between 177psi, and up to 195psi depending on the ICA of the three cams I have tried. ALL of these have run on nothing but 87E10.
I did not
actively choose a particular Scr, except as was necessary to get to a particular pressure, because;
Pressure makes heat, and heat makes torque, which calculates to power.
The three cams that I have run are;
the DC 292/292/108 that I measured at ~248/249@050
A Hughes 270/276/110 that was advertised at 223/230
Another Hughes, 276/286/110 which is 230/237@050
My favorite was the smaller Hughes.

IF for no other reason, alloy heads are the beesknees for running big pressure, on low-octane gas. and I highly recommend 195psi.
See note-1
The 223 cam sacrificed
some high-rpm power compared to the 292DC, but everywhere else was more powerful, good trade for me, and it returned phenomenal fuel-economy, near double of the 292, excellent trade as this was in a hiway DD.
What I learned on that trade was that a long power-stroke duration, coupled with a high pressure, and less overlap, is what makes fuel-economy possible. Obviously, driven to the extreme, this would result in a factory stock early hi-compression 318. I'm not going there.
Going from the 223, to the 230, I lost just a bit of pressure, and I lost a lot Power-stroke Duration. As a result, I lost bottom-end torque, and even the few degrees of lost powerstroke, coupled with the increased overlap; killed fuel economy.
It took me a lot of work to get the torque back, starting with a lower first gear ratio, and ending with a higher Scr to get the pressure back. The fuel-economy, however, was forever gone. But it was all good, the car was soon retired from DD status to weekend bomber, when I bought a old Sunfire to be my new DD.

Point is this, that 223 cam, geared for 65=1600rpm, pulled 32mpg on a certain steady-state day-trip. of Course your results may vary. also of course, around town, it was closer to 22, but that was no fault of the cam, lol. At 195psi, slamming the gas-pedal was always a fun trip.
When I switched to the 230cam, I was not expecting the bottom end to go away, the way it did. But the top-end was similar to what the 292 had been. Since by this time, I had double overdrive, the solution was 4.30 gears.. But as I learned to tune the beast, I eventually was able to go back to 3.55s.

IMO, with a manual trans, for me anyway, the 230cam (276/286/110) is too big. and here's why; your impressions may be different;
1) I can't drive slow. 550 rpm with a 2.66 low and 4.10s is ~4mph. Trynta get the engine to pull itself at 550 is a friggen stretch, and most guys with standard volume oil-pumps are not going there. I got down to 3.6mph, with a deep low gear, and retarded timing, but the transfers have to dead nuts working correctly.
2) This cam requires a lot of Scr, to pull the bottom-end torque up. With iron heads, about the most you can run on 91 gas is 165psiCCP, which is NOT ever gonna make me happy, having experienced 195psi. IDK you may be willing to suffer that. but not me.
3) Forget fuel economy with iron heads at 165psi. Even at 187, steady-state is nothing to brag on. here's why.
First, see note-1, then;
I ran the 223 straight up. the cam durations were;
270 intake/116comp/111power/276exhaust/53overlap
and the 230 cam in at plus 4
276intake/116comp/103power/286exhaust/61overlap
Notice that both have 116 compression, so they both make the same CCP-pressure.
Notice that the Powerstroke has gone from 111 down to 103. That's where the fuel economy went.
Notice that overlap has gone from a modest 53 to a not-so-modest 61. This cam will not suffer cruising at 1600. It likes to cruise at 2200 minimum. and so, I took out the double overdrive, and re-installed the 3.55s for 65=2240. But that killed my bottom-end torque multiplication by 18%, which is HUGE. To get it back, I had to go back inside the engine and increase the pressure. Plus, I had to run the Ignition Timing advance up higher, which then made parading impossible. So then, that mandated a dash-mounted, dial-back, timing module.
So, in the end, I got most of the torque back, but there was nothing more I could do for fuel economy, except optimize the cruise-timing.
So, look what that 230cam cost me, over the previous perfectly running 223combo:
a different trans,
a different rear gear,
a higher Scr (which went to a higher deck height thru milling)
a new engine gasket set,
and the timing module.
For what? yes, for the next size bigger cam.............
I got greedy, and it cost me dearly.
My conclusion was,
that for me, the 223cam had been perfect. I was very sad when it began dropping lobes. Of course there might be some room for tweeking, lol.
My next cam may be a 272/276/108, if I can get one. the numbers are
272 intake/116comp/114power/276exhaust/58overlap
Again the compression is 116*, With which I can easily make 185psi CCP and
the powerstroke is now back up, 114* this time, and
overlap is 3* less than the 230 cam but 5* more than the 223, so I'm hoping for similar top end power(to the 230) but with better fuel-economy@2240 rpm.
Now,
having said that, those numbers of the 228cam are in at straight up. IF your engine is down on CCP, you can easily trade away 4 or more degrees of powerstroke, and give them to compression. At this level, those 4 degrees are gonna be worth close to 8psi. So your engine can go from say 157psi and a lil doggy, to 165psi, about as high as you dare run with iron heads and best gas. This will hardly affect the fuel economy, which at 114* of Powerstroke, is already borderline excessive.
Thus, I feel like a cam in the range of 223>228 is about right for a streeter that values fuel economy...... which I think is gonna make a real impact in the future, as the price of gas keeps going up.

Note-1
I also think it's worth mentioning, that if your throttle is rarely WOT, then on the street, high cylinder pressure is relatively meaningless. The reason is this;
at part throttle, with the Secondaries closed, your engine can NEVER achieve it's CCP anyway, and you could be operating down at an EFFECTIVE pressure of say 120psi. and I mean, a factory stock 318 can produce 140 at sealevel at WOT. so how often do you run even her at WOT?
That hi CCP, only comes into play, at WOT.
Oh, and every time you slap the throttle with a HolleyDP lol, which is why there is one on my 367. It makes her feel like a much bigger engine, and
I like instant tirespin that I can control with the gas-pedal, lol.
If you don't drive like me,
then just about everything I have said, is relatively, meaningless.
If I couldn't have my 367@195psi, then I would absolutely have a bigger engine to make up for the WOT powerloss. I'ma thinking a low-deck 444 would be about right, and then I could run iron heads @160psi.
Course,
I could also run a 318 at 225psi EFFECTIVE,.......... with a supercharger. You know, to keep Rumble, who has an incomprehensible love of the 318, happy.
But-um, that's not for me. If I'm gonna supercharge something, it ain't gonna be a 318, I want my money's worth..

These are my opinions.
 
Last edited:
It's NOT about the Scr.
It's about the cylinder pressure.

What I'm about to preach, is for if you drive like me; and it's a preach, so, it's my opinion.
My short-block set-up is like Rumbles. With Alloy heads she has run between 177psi, and up to 195psi depending on the ICA of the three cams I have tried. ALL of these have run on nothing but 87E10.
I did not
actively choose a particular Scr, except as was necessary to get to a particular pressure, because;
Pressure makes heat, and heat makes torque, which calculates to power.
The three cams that I have run are;
the DC 292/292/108 that I measured at ~248/249@050
A Hughes 270/276/110 that was advertised at 223/230
Another Hughes, 276/286/110 which is 230/237@050
My favorite was the smaller Hughes.

IF for no other reason, alloy heads are the beesknees for running big pressure. and I highly recommend 195psi. See note-1
The 223 cam sacrificed some high-rpm power compared to the 292DC, but everywhere else was more powerful, good trade for me, and it returned phenomenal fuel-economy, near double of the 292, excellent trade as this was in a hiway DD.
What I learned on that trade was that a long power stroke period, coupled with a high pressure, and less overlap, is what makes fuel-economy possible. Obviously, driven to the extreme, this would result in a factory stock early hi-compression 318. I'm not going there.
Going from the 223, to the 230, I lost just a bit of pressure, and I lost Power-stroke Duration. As a result, I lost bottom-end torque, and even the few degrees of lost powerstroke, coupled with the increased overlap; killed fuel economy.
It took me a lot of work to get the torque back, starting with a lower first gear ratio, and ending with a higher Scr to get the pressure back. The fuel-economy, however, was forever gone. But it was all good, the car was soon retired from DD status to weekend bomber, when I bought a old Sunfire to be my new DD.

Point is this, that 223 cam, geared for 65=1600rpm, pulled 32mpg on a certain steady-state day-trip. of Course your results may vary. also of course, around town, it was closer to 22, but that was no fault of the cam, lol. At 195psi, slamming the gas-pedal was always a fun trip.
When I switched to the 230cam, I was not expecting the bottom end to go away, the way it did. But the top-end was similar to what the 292 had been. Since by this time, I had double overdrive, the solution was 4.30 gears.. But as I learned to tune the beast, I eventually was able to go back to 3.55s.

IMO, with a manual trans, for me anyway, the 230cam (276/286/110) is too big. and here's why; your impressions may be different;
1) you can't drive slow. 550 rpm with a 2.66 low and 4.10s is ~4mph. Trynta get the engine to pull itself at 550 is a friggen stretch, and most guys with standard volume oil-pumps are not going there.
2) This cam requires a lot of Scr, to pull the bottom-end torque up. With iron heads, about the most you can run on 91 gas is 165psiCCP, which is NOT ever gonna make me happy, having experienced 195psi. IDK you may be willing to suffer that. but not me.
3) Forget fuel economy with iron heads at 165psi. Even at 187, steady-state is nothing to brag on. here's why.
I ran the 223 straight up. the cam durations were;
270 intake/116comp/111power/276exhaust/53overlap
and the 230 cam in at plus 4
276intake/116comp/103power/286exhaust/61overlap
Notice that both have 116 compression, so they both make the same CCP-pressure.
Notice that Power has gone from 111 down to 103. That's where the fuel economy went.
Notice that overlap has gone from a modest 53 to a not-so-modest 61. This cam will not suffer cruising at 1600. It likes to cruise at 2200 minimum. and so, I took out the double overdrive, and re-installed the 3.55s for 65=2240. But that killed my bottom-end torque multiplication by 18%, which is HUGE. To get it back, I had to go back inside the engine and increase the pressure. Plus, I had to run the Ignition Timing advance up higher, which then made parading impossible. So then, that mandated a dash-mounted, dial-back, timing module.
So, in the end, I got most of the torque back, but there was nothing more I could do for fuel economy, except optimize the cruise-timing.
So, look what that 230cam cost me, over the previous perfectly running 223combo: a different trans, a different rear gear, a higher Scr (which went to a higher deck height thru milling) a new engine gasket set, and the timing module. For what? yes for the next size bigger cam.............
I got greedy, and it cost me dearly.
My conclusion was,
that for me, the 223cam had been perfect. I was very sad when it began dropping lobes. Of course there might be some room for tweeking, lol.
My next cam may be a 272/276/108, if I can get one. the numbers are
272 intake/116comp/114power/276exhaust/58overlap
Again the compression is 116*, With which I can easily make 185psi CCP and
the powerstroke is now back up, 114* this time, and
overlap is 3* less than the 230 cam but 5* more than the 223, so I'm hoping for similar top end power(to the 230) but with better fuel-economy@2240 rpm.
Now,
having said that, those numbers of the 228cam are in at straight up. IF your engine is down on CCP, you can easily trade away 4 or more degrees of powerstroke, and give them to compression. At this level, those 4 degrees are gonna be worth close to 8psi. So your engine can go from say 157psi and a lil doggy, to 165psi, about as high as you dare run with iron heads and best gas. This will hardly affect the fuel economy, which at 114* of Powerstroke, is already borderline excessive.
Thus, I feel like a cam in the range of 223>228 is about right for a streeter that values fuel economy...... which I think is gonna make a real impact in the future, as the price of gas keeps going up.

Note-1
I also think it's worth mentioning, that if your throttle is rarely WOT, then on the street, high cylinder pressure is relatively meaningless. The reason is this;
at part throttle, with the Secondaries closed, your engine can NEVER achieve it's CCP anyway, and you could be operating down at an EFFECTIVE pressure of say 120psi. and I mean, a factory stock 318 can produce 140 at sealevel at WOT. so how often do you run even her at WOT?
That hi CCP, only comes into play, at WOT.
Oh, and every time you slap the throttle with a HolleyDP lol, which is why there is one on my 367. It makes her feel like a much bigger engine, and
I like instant tirespin that I can control with the gas-pedal, lol.
If you don't drive like me,
then just about everything I have said, is relatively, meaningless.
If I couldn't have my 367@195psi, then I would absolutely have a bigger engine to make up for the WOT powerloss. I'ma thinking a low-deck 444 would be about right, and then I could run iron heads @160psi.
Course,
I could also run a 318 at 225psi EFFECTIVE,.......... with a supercharger. You know, to keep Rumble, who has an incomprehensible love of the 318, happy.
But-um, that's not for me. If I'm gonna supercharge something, it ain't gonna be a 318, I want my money's worth..

These are my opinions.
Oh how I was about to give this a 4-1/2 star rating!
2 things. I’m not sold on your possible next cam choice BUT if you did the homework on valve timing events, I’m thinking it’ll work for you.

I normally don’t mess with small cams. To that end, I’m finding out the best true street drivers work really well with cams in the 220 to 226 @050 area. Depending on how the love is cut, 226 can even be a bit large.

But this imagined live affair of the 318 I have.
Oh buddy! It’s my distain of your never ending hatred and ridicule of the 318 and those who want to use the 318 for whatever reason.

Love ya much AJ. Im just looking forward to a time when you are not a dickhead towards the 318 and the people that want to use them, for whatever reason they are being used.

Oh! And actually being a MoPar brother and help those looking for help dispute the engine size.
 
There are many variables that are going to determine if the engine detonates; two seemingly identical engine builds, & one detonates & the other doesn't.....
My GTO is a great example. With a 4 bbl intake, I would get occasional det on a hot day with 98 octane fuel. Did it with different intakes & carbs. Switched to IR induction system about 18 years ago & I have not been able to get it det on 91 octane fuel.................!
Stick to a sensible CR. Worst thing you can do is go too high in CR.....& then have to retard the timing to stop the det. You will lose a LOT more hp that way than if you started with a lower static cr [ don't bother with dyn CR, it is a waste of time ]. As CR increases the HP gain become less.

img345.jpg
 
It's NOT about the Scr.
It's about the cylinder pressure.

This is understandable quite well, however I have not seen a formula to take measurable parts that make up geometric or dynamic compression ratio and predicts cranking compression tester cylinder pressure. And all of that is just a proxy for peak cylinder pressure which is the real thing we are trying to control.

If we all had all the time and money in the world we would just buy a all the combinations of parts to get the 195psi cranking compression and it doesn't seem like anyone has a way to predict it, just hand waving 'it will be good with x,y,z'.

AJ- what static CR are you running with those three cams and what test pressures did you see with those?

Also my combination is a bit larger than yours so my hope is going up a little in duration to that 230 cam would provide similar manors to your proposed 228 cam.
 
This is understandable quite well, however I have not seen a formula to take measurable parts that make up geometric or dynamic compression ratio and predicts cranking compression tester cylinder pressure. And all of that is just a proxy for peak cylinder pressure which is the real thing we are trying to control.

If we all had all the time and money in the world we would just buy a all the combinations of parts to get the 195psi cranking compression and it doesn't seem like anyone has a way to predict it, just hand waving 'it will be good with x,y,z'.

AJ- what static CR are you running with those three cams and what test pressures did you see with those?

Also my combination is a bit larger than yours so my hope is going up a little in duration to that 230 cam would provide similar manors to your proposed 228 cam.

If you are not willing to do everything to run higher than orthodox compression ratios then follow RRR’s advice.

If you want to run your coolant at 195 plus degrees than 10:1 is about it. That’s if everything else is correct.

And ignore the advice that says if the compression is too high you need to reduce total timing and that’s power loss. That’s 100% crapola.

If you understand why you need vacuum advance then you understand why reduced total timing doesn’t mean you lost power.

I’d rather run 12:1 and 30 total than 10:1 at 35 total. And it will make more power.
 
I was watching a Richard Holdener Video and finds cranking pressure a meaningless number, say you ran the comp xe lineup though a dyno mule and start at the xe250h and work your way up to xe286h. The cranking pressure generally goes down as powerband curve goes up.
 
AJ- what static CR are you running with those three cams and what test pressures did you see with those?
I included some of that information in the Post.
My 367 fell together at 10.73 Scr. The first cam was the DC292.
With an Ica of 70*, the pressure was just about 163psi
Advancing the cam to in at 66*, this improved to 170psi.
I took the engine out and had the decks milled to Zero, and the New Scr was 11.1, with pressure rising to 180.
before the summer was out, I knew that cam was a bad choice, so I sold it and slammed the 223/110 cam in there, at 61*Ica and the pressure spiked to 188. I thought there was room for a lil more so I reset the Ica to 59, for 192psi.
Now, in those days, I was pulling the 367 out every fall for freshening over the winter. I had been running the 028 gasket at zero deck, but when I put it together with the smaller cam, I used the 039, and reset the Ica to 64*. With the new Scr of 10.82, the pressure came in at 176
When that cam dropped lobes, I replaced it with a 230/110, and I had the decks lowered ~.007 for a new Scr of 11.0, and an Ica of 64* The new pressure was 181.
One winter, I advanced this cam a few degrees, and 184psi was the result, and I think it's been there ever since.
All these pressure numbers come from the Wallace calculator, cuz this is going back 25>20 years, and I don't remember all thatchit. Back then, I didn't keep records cuz I had never heard of FABO, and just wanted to drive the thing.
My gauge reads a lil higher, in the range of 2 or 3 percent..
With alloy heads, all of these ran full-timing with 87E10.
My heads are uncut OOTB Eddies
Car went 93mph in the Eighth, with the 230 cam, in straight-up.
 
I was watching a Richard Holdener Video and finds cranking pressure a meaningless number, say you ran the comp xe lineup though a dyno mule and start at the xe250h and work your way up to xe286h. The cranking pressure generally goes down as powerband curve goes up.
Mustabin a Chevy.
 
Yes would mostly be Chevys and Fords.


My question is what difference does it make what engine the testing was done on? That’s an ignorant claim at best.

Cranking compression is a measure of IVC and static compression ratio.

I have never seen any correlation between cranking compression and the proclivity to detonate.

Then there is what some erroneously call “dynamic” compression ratio which is actually effective compression ratio and should be called such.

That a whole other discussion.
 
My question is what difference does it make what engine the testing was done on? That’s an ignorant claim at best.
I have no idea, Was gonna ask him does the rules Physics depend on the brand lol
Cranking compression is a measure of IVC and static compression ratio.

I have never seen any correlation between cranking compression and the proclivity to detonate.
Problem I see with cranking pressure it's doesn't factor in VE% and or overall air flow.
Then there is what some erroneously call “dynamic” compression ratio which is actually effective compression ratio and should be called such.

That a whole other discussion.
 
-
Back
Top