Pulled the power steering bracket off of my kid's 340 to transfer it to the 360 and had coolant come pouring out of both timing cover bolt holes. Are these holes normally wet? We had issues with coolant in the oil with this engine. Wondering if the block is toast.
Coolant coming out of timing cover bolts?
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draginmopars
Well-Known Member
those 2 bolt holes is normal
No, those bolt holes go into the water jacket.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
guess i should have said
"normally wet"
Or >> for those 2 bolt holes is normal for water to come out
as those bolt holes go into the water jacket.
Woods74
Broke Senior
Permatex no. 2 selant on about 3/4" of the threads and wheel em' back in.
69B-Cuda
Well-Known Member
yep, those holes like to leak... permatex on the threads as suggested before.
I like the "stop leak" to seal the water passages. The fine silver powder that you get at any parts store. I've used it for years and it works great! I've been amazed at how well it stops leaks. I keep a tube of it in my glove box for emergency.
Don't use the Bars Leak pellets that look like rabbit ****. They will clog your heater core.
Just pour a little of the silver powder into the radiator (like 1/4 the tube for small issues is needed) then run it for 40 minutes until any leeking/seepage stops and you are good.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
For a bolt hole that goes into a water jacket ?
Yes, it works on most leaks.
I was surprised at how well that it works.
The powder melts and when it gets to the leak, solidifies and stops it up.
I was once visiting my friend and some of his son's friends were over (about 18 y/o). One of his friends had a monte carlo ss and it had a chunk of gasket missing from the water pump. You could see the slow stream of coolant leaking out of it. Since I carried a tube with me for emergencies, I poured 1/4 - 1/2 of the bottle in his radiator and we ran the car for 40 minutes and the leak finally stopped. We just intended this to last to get him home until he could buy a gasket and change it. He ended up selling the car two weeks later and still hadn't changed the gasket as it was still holding. I couldn't believe that it worked on that bad of a leak.
I always use it after I replace a water pump bolt or end stud for the exhaust manifold and it seals the threads right up without any other type of sealant on the threads. I put them in dry. It finds the leaks in the threads and seals them right up.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I've used it before on my wife's Mustang-the 4.6s are known for t-stat housing leaks...when her's started, I used the whole tube, topped off the radiator and overflow can, drove it for 25 minutes, sealed right up...
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
I just use Teflon paste pipe sealant on mine
After trying to seal the slant's manifold studs with all of the 'normal' automotive sealants I used what my engine builder friend told me to, teflon enriched pipe dope. I'm sold, any wet bolts get that on the threads from now on.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Case closed.....:glasses7:
There's more than one way to skin a cat, as long as you get them sealed, use whatever works for you.
As was said, what ever works for you. However if you look at cost vs. volume I don't think they're in the same ballpark.
Local to me Lowe's: $8 for 4oz. (118 mL) can
vs.
Local to me O'Reilly's: $5.30 for 6mL (.2 oz)
And, one of the sealants that I tried was Lock-tite 545, what the Permatex product is a copy of. On a Slant it didn't work, which surprised me greatly. With it's exhaust manifold right there I think that I exceeded the intended operating temperature. Been several months of mostly DD driving and the pipe dope hasn't given me any trouble.
Local to me Lowe's: $8 for 4oz. (118 mL) can
vs.
Local to me O'Reilly's: $5.30 for 6mL (.2 oz)
And, one of the sealants that I tried was Lock-tite 545, what the Permatex product is a copy of. On a Slant it didn't work, which surprised me greatly. With it's exhaust manifold right there I think that I exceeded the intended operating temperature. Been several months of mostly DD driving and the pipe dope hasn't given me any trouble.
Yeah but how long will that 8 bucks worth sit on most peoples shelves after being used once? Long enough to dry out and be worthless when they need it again, I bet.
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
I've got a bottle that's over 10 years old and the cap is just put on loose and it's still very usable
95teetee
Well-Known Member
'pipe dope' can and should be used on pretty much every bolt that holds a car together-makes everything a lot better if you ever want to disassemble anything in, say, the next 20 or 30 years.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
My concern on "pipe dope" from Lowes,would be heat.
I'll stick with the permatex. Its made for cars, and high heat.
I'll stick with the permatex. Its made for cars, and high heat.
I'm not arguing against SOMETHING being used. Pipe dope is just not an automotive compound, IMO. There are better things on the market, I believe.
Like I said, been in there for several months of semi-DD use. Not been a problem and they don't leak. Unlike the Lock-tite thread sealer that I tried prior to using it. It not being "automotive" was my original resistance to using it, but I'm a believer now.
It does have a cosmetic issue in that what is on the surface does spread out and make a small mess. Easy enough to clean up.
It does have a cosmetic issue in that what is on the surface does spread out and make a small mess. Easy enough to clean up.
There's a big difference between plumber's pipe dope and automotive grade liquid Teflon sealant. You seem to be leaving that out.
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