Cost for A Body 8.75 Rear End

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I agree with Syleng1. You can get a B,C, E body axle. Go To Dr Differential and get all parts you need. I,ve got a 741 with 1,000 wrapped up in it drum to drum. Look at the catologs and you will see 3,300 - 3,600 for the same axle. Just my .02

Tim
 
Alternatively, have you looked into a Ford 8.8 from and Explorer/Ranger? Also 8-1/4 with Cherokee disc brakes. It really depends on how much power you plan to put to it and the traction you can get to do so.
 
Prices??? I would bet from about $650 to $1200 drum to drum with no pumpkin or with an open pumpkin. Disclaimer: YOU may pay more or less depending on where you live, and if the seller smells money!!!!!
 
The last few years I have seen several A body 8.75 bare housings for sale for $100 at Carlisle.
I even pulled my tape measure out last year and helped a guy to confirm the measurements on one.
$650 is reasonable if complete, also the shock plates are different than a 7.25, grab them.
 
sireland67 said:
The last few years I have seen several A body 8.75 bare housings for sale for $100 at Carlisle.
I even pulled my tape measure out last year and helped a guy to confirm the measurements on one.
$650 is reasonable if complete, also the shock plates are different than a 7.25, grab them.
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Good to know about the shock plates. Thanks for the info
 
depends on where you live. In socal, there are 3 original A body rears within driving distance of me, 1 rusted out one needing a full teardown and rebuild for $900, and 2 fully rebuilt with brand new everything for $2000-$2500. Considering I paid $1200 for the entire car, I will keep on looking or find alternatives lol
 
You're gonna be into one for between 1-2K no matter what. Used parts on the low side, new parts on the high side.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You're gonna be into one for between 1-2K no matter what. Used parts on the low side, new parts on the high side.
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For sure. I’d like to grab used were possible/makes sense. I just didn’t have a good idea on pricing for a used a body rear end. It also cleared up my misconceptions on 741 so win win out of this thread!
 
sireland67 said:
And just man up and put new "U" bolts on, do not re-use the old bolts
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Be sure if you use new u bolts that they have the flat pressed into them over the housing tubes. I can send you proof of what happens when you don't.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Be sure if you use new u bolts that they have the flat pressed into them over the housing tubes. I can send you proof of what happens when you don't.
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I’ve only come across that u bolt twice. I do like them a lot. The pair I had even had some knurling in it. I’d like to see the picture just ***** and giggles though
 
What’s funny about this whole conversation is these axles are over 40 years old and still here. Still able to be used and most still in working cars. We debate over HP put to them but heck if you drive 300hp and baby a 7-1/4” rear it will work. Let’s face it. 8-3/4 are awesome for all the right reasons. But what was a dime a dozen 30 years ago are now $1200.00 bargain deal now. Supply and demand.
 
Should I tell you about the brand new 1970 Tor Red 340 4speed Duster I bought brand new For $2805.00? Times and prices change. It’s a fact of life.
 
Jdkenned360 said:
I’ve only come across that u bolt twice. I do like them a lot. The pair I had even had some knurling in it. I’d like to see the picture just ***** and giggles though
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From what I hear find a big rig drive line repair and they can make flattened u bolts.
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Jdkenned360 said:
Jesus was that torqued way past spec
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"Some is good, more is better, too much is just right!"

My understanding is that round u bolts will do that with normal torque. lbs per square inch, not a lot of square inches where the round of the bolt meets the tube
 
Ya do realize torquing to 185ftlbs on each leg will NOT do that. In roughly 40 years in this hobby I’ve yet to see a 3”schedule 40 pipe collapse like that with standard U- bolts. Those bolts are not even that strong. Not sure what that axle was used in but I’m pretty sure that standard bolts would stretch long before indenting the tubes like that.
IMHO.
 
Maybe a "from back East" axle rusted thin!?
I admit I have never boogered an axle with round U bolts. But I doubt I would torq one down that hard.
 
8 3/4 housings are not that HD. I would imagine over tightening the nuts could do that. Since factory torque is like 45 ft lbs.
 
Syleng1 said:
Ya do realize torquing to 185ftlbs on each leg will NOT do that. In roughly 40 years in this hobby I’ve yet to see a 3”schedule 40 pipe collapse like that with standard U- bolts. Those bolts are not even that strong. Not sure what that axle was used in but I’m pretty sure that standard bolts would stretch long before indenting the tubes like that.
IMHO.
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Right they must not have been too standard of u-bolts! Not sure how else you would get a perfect u bolt indent in an axle tube like that. I’ve only installed 2 rear ends and have never seen that.
 
Keep in mind that 8 3/4 rears are formed, I suspect the steel is a bit more maluable than steel tubing, even the ends are formed from the same material, IIRC ford 9" only the center is formed and the ends and center are welded to tube.

My theory in how the 8 3/4 is formed...

Flat stock is formed around a round form and welded, this creates the axle tube

Next one end of the tube is split length wise and formed to be the top and bottom of the center.

Another part is made just like it.

A metal ring is stamped out of plate for the center section to bolt to.

The rear hump is stamped and formed.

The two halves, the hump and the bolt ring are jigged up and welded together.

Since the housings at this point could be any width they either made the halves the length they needed to be or made them all long enough for the widest they needed. Any way they were cut to a length.

The next step would be to form the bearing ends / flange into the tube, I assume the tube ends were heated and pressed into the flange shape.

The spring pirches welded on and the housing streightened.

The above is just my observations from the housings I have seen, the weld lines and the crimp marks on the tube from the ends being formed.

I would love to know from anyone who has first or second hand (ie dad worked in the plant)knowledge, if this is correct.
 
And A-body 8-3/4 we're meant for 1 thing, abuse. After 53 to 47 years of getting the snot beat our of them they are as worn as the cars they came in if still alive.
 
My "built" 489 case...
Where there's a will there's a way...lol..
20151128_141857.jpg

That was about pass # 20...
after that I found a Dana 60 out of a truck for $160 on Craigslist and sold the brakes and parts for 40. I bought $300 green axles from Dr diff and $75 for the end pieces. I bought 125 dollar lightweight spool and $50 bearings. I paid $300 to have the housing cut down and the new ends welded on along with the purtches...
I think I paid another $175 to have the gears all set up after that. Now I was able to put my brakes and everything I had on it or in your case the disc brakes. Now no matter how much horsepower I put at it I have no worries.
Moral of the story I put the same $1,200 into the Dana 60 as I did the in 3/4 489 case... you can add another three or four hundred dollars for a sure grip instead of a spool to that story..
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