Crack surrounding door striker

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My 69 Charger has the same crack, I heard it’s common on B bodies too.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but what if your door jambs are still good? I'm doing a complete resto with someone else handling the body work. If the doors are aligned properly upon reassembly am I in the clear?
 
The original problem is the weakness of the jamb. The crack occurs due to stress flexing. The best repair is to weld up the present crack and add a stiffener plate behind it. No need to tear everything apart, just reinforce what is there. This is a design flaw that only shows up after time.
 
Where do you find a stiffener plate or do you fabricate one out of sheet metal?
 
The original problem is the weakness of the jamb. The crack occurs due to stress flexing. The best repair is to weld up the present crack and add a stiffener plate behind it. No need to tear everything apart, just reinforce what is there. This is a design flaw that only shows up after time.
By "still good" I mean there is no crack to weld. How does one add a stiffener plate behind it without tearing everything apart? Is it accessible from the inside? Just trying to make sure I don't have an issue after the resto.
 
Dynamic Rsenovations (I think that's right - it is close) makes a kit complete with the patch panel that is shaped to fit flush in the original jamb, and a new cage that retains the nut the strike screws into. I have used it in two cars and it worked really great. Comes with very specific instructions and templates.
 
By "still good" I mean there is no crack to weld. How does one add a stiffener plate behind it without tearing everything apart? Is it accessible from the inside? Just trying to make sure I don't have an issue after the resto.
I did mine when I was replacing the quarters. I used a piece cut out of the old quarter and removed the cage behind it and welded it in around the perimeter and also with a couple plug welds in the middle area. Then welded the cage back in.
 
From 67-71, The door latch pillar on all A bodies was only one layer of metal, and the striker was bolted to it. Years of slamming doors cause this to crack. Chrysler knew this was a problem, so starting in 1972, A bodies had a reinforcing plate spot welded to the back side where the striker bolts on. Viola! no more cracking.

There's many ways to do a simple fix, but the best solution is to add a plate on the inside to strengthen the striker area. This does mean removing the cage for the threaded striker plate and transferring it to the new reinforcement.
 
Make sure hinges are good and if they have been removed for body and paint adjusted properly...you'll know because the door should shut nice like any other car, don't accept "its a Mopar they weren't perfect" the door should close properly . With the hinges properly installed and the striker properly installed and adjusted all the body lines should line up nice. and the door should close with a one or two finger push. If for example the door is a bit low at the fender the door wont shut properly it tends to hammer the striker, also the striker would have to be adjusted all the way up for the door top to align with the quarter etc.
 
I did mine when I was replacing the quarters. I used a piece cut out of the old quarter and removed the cage behind it and welded it in around the perimeter and also with a couple plug welds in the middle area. Then welded the cage back in.
Good to know. I'm not sure if the quarters will need to be full replaced at this point but will check it out when the time comes this winter.

@str12-340 thanks, I will check it out!

From 67-71, The door latch pillar on all A bodies was only one layer of metal, and the striker was bolted to it. Years of slamming doors cause this to crack. Chrysler knew this was a problem, so starting in 1972, A bodies had a reinforcing plate spot welded to the back side where the striker bolts on. Viola! no more cracking.

There's many ways to do a simple fix, but the best solution is to add a plate on the inside to strengthen the striker area. This does mean removing the cage for the threaded striker plate and transferring it to the new reinforcement.
What are the odds mine, a 72 built in Oct 71, has a reinforced striker already? It's not cracked, but I have reason to believe the mileage is low. Thanks again!
 
Years ago a friend/neighbor had a single reason why he would never own a Chrysler product. He said, "Go to a junk yard and open and close doors on Fords, Chevrolets, etc,,, Then try a few Chryslers. If the door does open, it wont close right".
As years went by and my trips to junkyards were pretty much annually, I found his comment to be true.
R.I.P. Steve Henderson
 
Good to know. I'm not sure if the quarters will need to be full replaced at this point but will check it out when the time comes this winter.

@str12-340 thanks, I will check it out!


What are the odds mine, a 72 built in Oct 71, has a reinforced striker already? It's not cracked, but I have reason to believe the mileage is low. Thanks again!
72 and newer rarely crack. They were built with the reinforcement
 
Years ago a friend/neighbor had a single reason why he would never own a Chrysler product. He said, "Go to a junk yard and open and close doors on Fords, Chevrolets, etc,,, Then try a few Chryslers. If the door does open, it wont close right".
As years went by and my trips to junkyards were pretty much annually, I found his comment to be true.
R.I.P. Steve Henderson
This may be an explaination for that. In a auto salvage yard teh wheels are usually removed and teh cars arent sitting properly on their suspension, they are unibody and the way they sit the bodies flex. Over time that may lead to door closing issues,that and the hinges and door strikers are worn out LOL! But I assure you when a Mopar is repaired properly the doors close like any other car. The fit and finish on the other makes was definitely different though.
 
Dynamic Rsenovations (I think that's right - it is close) makes a kit complete with the patch panel that is shaped to fit flush in the original jamb, and a new cage that retains the nut the strike screws into. I have used it in two cars and it worked really great. Comes with very specific instructions and templates.
Thank you, I have mine ordered plus some other stiffening plates.
 
Dynamic also has stiffenng plates that go behind the exterior door handle to reinforce that spot too. I think they made them to weld in place, but I just put them over the studs for the handle and tightened them up...
 
Just ordered mine from Dynamic, they arrived in about 3 days. Heading to the body shop to have a conversation with the restoration tech soon.
 
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