Mancini's makes a real slick tool to remove the shells, I would look into it, it works so smooth, that it will remove the part in the amount of time it took me to type this.
Those look really cool but I’m on a tight budget right now so I’ll probably just use the weld method. I’ll add those tools to my list of things to buy eventually. HahaMancini's makes a real slick tool to remove the shells, I would look into it, it works so smooth, that it will remove the part in the amount of time it took me to type this.
Mancini's makes a real slick tool to remove the shells, I would look into it, it works so smooth, that it will remove the part in the amount of time it took me to type this.
The Mancini tool sucked the old ones out of a few sets of original lowers I had, I bet the aftemarket ones were put together out of what ever they had on the shelf.The Mancini tool wouldn’t pull the shells out of my QA1 LCA’s, just FYI. And they’re new, not even old and crusty. I bought a tap, it works great. Thread in, press out the shell. But I bought the tap because I have more than one set to do. If I only had one to do I’d just weld in the washer.
You can see my installation here, I put the Delrin bushings from Bergman Autocraft into my QA1 LCA’s
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The rubber ones being produced now wont last anywhere near as long as the originals did. Nothing about the current MOOG bushings is to the standard that the old ones were.
The Mancini tool sucked the old ones out of a few sets of original lowers I had, I bet the aftemarket ones were put together out of what ever they had on the shelf.
The OEM ones must have the same tolerance for thousands of the same cars.
If you rebuild for a living ok. But the rubber will last 40 years so why buy special tools?
The QA1 tubular LCA’s are better quality than the factory LCA’s ever were. Hands down a better design and better build quality.
It probably had more to do with the tolerances actually being correct, as opposed to factory loose.
The rubber bushings sold now won’t last 40 years. The MOOG rubber set of LCA bushings I ran on my Challenger didn’t last 4, one was completely thrashed before the 40k mile mark. The poly bushings I replaced them with still look brand new after 30k.
Properly installed the poly bushings will outlast any of the rubber bushings out there.
I’ve been too busy for the car lolMy GAWD. Almost seven months. Speechless.
that's sadI’ve been too busy for the car lol
I’ve been too busy for the car lol
We talking normal use or extreme use? Rally stuff or plain old street and fun driving? MOOG is off my list as well.
that MAY be true for a-bodies, but for my '79 300, they came with higher durometer(police) rubber bushings. IIRC they were green-colored.Just street driving. That was when I was using my Challenger as my daily. None of the rubber bushings are worth the effort it takes to install them IMHO.
that MAY be true for a-bodies, but for my '79 300, they came with higher durometer(police) rubber bushings. IIRC they were green-colored.
that why I have some NOS bushings, somewhere, hahahaGood luck finding those!
The OE rubber wasn’t a problem, but the stuff being made now is not the same quality as what you could get “back in the day”. And what you could get back in the day doesn’t help now.
that why I have some NOS bushings, somewhere, hahaha
I get those shells out differently. I get under the lip of the shell with an air chisel and just fold the shell in on itself. By the time yall rounded up washers and dragged the welder over I'd probably have two shells out.
I don't know what you use, but I have a CP 714 and a 717 that can destroy anything!
I don't know the model number, but it's the long snout Snap On air chisel that's their flagship. It's a bad ****.
I use a short "whip" hose between the regular air hose and the gun. It has a little ball valve built into it, so I can easily dial up or down the air pressure so it's easier to control depending on what I'm working on.Those Snap On's are bad *** but very hard on the ears, the CP's hit hard but are more controlable, and the 717 has a .498 shank bit and hits so hard it will hurt your hand.
I use a short "whip" hose between the regular air hose and the gun. It has a little ball valve built into it, so I can easily dial up or down the air pressure so it's easier to control depending on what I'm working on.
The only air chisel I have is when I drop my cold chisel and it’s falling through the air haha