Custom exhaust ideas

[David Dickerson]

Looking for suggestions for a custom exhaust on my 74 Duster. I have Hedman headers, a Gear Vendors Overdrive, and my leaf springs have been moved in 3 inches. I plan to exit the exhaust behind the rear wheels below the rear quarters. I will have to go through the leafs, but I don't really have a choice. I know TTI makes a crossover for A bodies with a GV, but not sure if it will work with any headers other than theirs. I haven't called them yet. I don't really have to use a crossover, but it would probably be better than without. I have looked at the DIY kits from Summit, and the reviews were good, but they were for stock set-ups. One concern I have is that the passenger side header collector is quite close to the torsion bar mount. I don't think there would be room to turn in and come through the tunnel near the tranny. Not sure if other headers have the collector farther away. The drivers side has plenty of room. The Summit kit is set up for Hooker headers, but installers haven't had too many issues with other headers, just some trimming. I was considering buying the SS kit from Summit and having my local exhaust shop bend the tailpipes to exit where I want. They can't mandrel bend, otherwise I would have them make the whole exhaust. There is always the question of the exhaust note also.

 

[jazak5]

ever thought of going the T/A AAR route ?????

 

[jdsduster]

take it to a better exhaust shop

 

[AJ/FormS]

In '99, I bought the TTI set-up; headers AND full length 3" duals, for my 68 Barracuda with set-up similar to yours; 367/4gear/stock tank.
The kit at that time had pipes too long,so as to fit either 108, or 111 cars, so some trimming was required.I worked from the back o the front. It came with the H-pipe, and fit like a glove; with the pipes coming out between the springs and the tank.
Later I moved the springs with the 3\4 inch kit, and still later I added the GVOD, and it still all fit EXCEPT the H-pipe. I had to cut it out.
I immediately noticed the missing H, and spent a lotta time that summer trying to find the missing bottom-end torque. I ended up with a 3.09low box and 3.55s,which took care of it. I don't miss the H anymore. And with just a 230* cam,(maybe a tic over 400hp) I don't feel the need for an X.
I ordered their pipes with turndowns, that I just barely poked out the valence and ended under the bumper. I smoothed the rearmost edge so it can't cut skin. Great sounding, and no drone with the also supplied Dynomax 3-pass crimped-seams muffs. No rust-out still today
_________________________________
But I can sure see a problem with springs moved in 3 inches; my pipes just barely fit between there. I can definitely see the pipes having to be outboard of the springs.
So your idea of dumping out the side behind the wheels makes sense, altho, with stuff sticking up thru the hood, Ima thinking your power level is a might bit higher than mine, and so probably; it's gonna be LOUD,lol

 

[j par]

Only way I would have my exhaust come out behind the back wheel is if I had a Chevy! It's a Mopar, it should come
out before the back tire...
Short, loud, and badass like a Mopar!
My-2.....

 

[jazak5]

out before the back tire...
Short, loud, and badass like a Mopar!
My-2.....


Yup AAR/TA

 

[zpsull01]

I dreamed this up a few years ago. Use 4 inline electronic dumps (black blocks) and 2 same side entry/exit mufflers. With some controls work you could sequence one to open as the other closes per side. This would divert the air from entering the muffler directly back into the tail pipe. This way you could have a dump and a muffler exiting the same location. And with different settings could tune the sound/volume to the desired liking.

Zack