do you have repair manual yet? a wise investment from what I'm gathering
Cylinder has spark but not firing..
- Thread starter duey_roc
- Start date
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duey_roc
Well-Known Member
A simple yes or no could have worked. I looked it up. Basically it's exactly what the name states. The time when your valves open and close and, yes you control it with the camshaft in how advanced you make your cam. I believe that's where the dot on the timing chain gears line up. Yes they are lines up pointing towards each other
Duey, you need to go to the local parts store and ask for spark plugs for a 78 Cordoba with a 360 eng
I don't care what brand! get 8 or maybe 10 that way you have a couple spares to swap around.
I know your dying to install that manifold but lets give each cyl a fair chance at firing First.
I don't care what brand! get 8 or maybe 10 that way you have a couple spares to swap around.
I know your dying to install that manifold but lets give each cyl a fair chance at firing First.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
They are lol. I asked for plugs and wires for a 78 cordoba
JoJo
Well-Known Member
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Maybe it's just my view but I'd swear in post #181 it looks like plugs # 6 & 8 are different??? Looks like the insulator is shorter on 6 & 8 than all the rest.
Also, I forget what post # it was (too many posts to find anything now without looking for several minutes) but the post concerning the carburetor idle mixture adjustment not making any difference on the passengers side says to me it either has a vacuum leak, a piece of crud in the idle port on that side of the carb or a leaking metering block gasket (sucking air). First thing I'd do is get the carb working correctly, or replace it with a good known carb.
Also, I forget what post # it was (too many posts to find anything now without looking for several minutes) but the post concerning the carburetor idle mixture adjustment not making any difference on the passengers side says to me it either has a vacuum leak, a piece of crud in the idle port on that side of the carb or a leaking metering block gasket (sucking air). First thing I'd do is get the carb working correctly, or replace it with a good known carb.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
If 6 of the 8 cylinders are firing properly and the cam doesn't have any flat lobes there's no reason at all to suspect valve timing. Incorrect valve timing is not going to make just 2 cylinders misfire
When I posted <facepalm> I simply meant someone is sending you down a rabbit hole that's a dead end. Running you off in a direction that's a wild goose chase does nothing to help. That's what I meant. But, what's so bad is, this thread is so messed up, nobody is 100% sure of anything.
I think maybe you should try and be a bit more thankful and respectful to those hanging in continuing to try and help you. You have three solid pages on here talking about the cracked intake with zero progress. That was you simply keeping the thread going. You cannot blame a few smart comments as ridiculous as this thread is. You asked for help. Smartass comments or not, that's what everybody is trying to do. You don't bite the hand that feeds you.
Here's what I think. I think you yanked those plugs out with no regard to where they came from and have no idea where they go. And that's ok. Just tell us the truth so we can get past that and move on. Tracy's right too. You have one plug at least that's an obvious different heat range. You cannot fault us for pointing out that you may be a troll and this may all be a rouse. It's crazy enough to be just that.
You need to settle down and do one thing at the time, instead of seeing someone's suggestion when you're right in the middle of doing something and taking off that way. An engine (or cylinder) needs four things to run. Air, fuel, spark and it needs it all at the right time. If cylinders are not firing, one of those things is amiss. It's not rocket science.
You've even said by your own admission that you ran a solid cam with hydraulic lifters and that you swapped lifter and pushrod positions around. The pushrods are not too critical. But you never ever ever swap lifters from one lobe to the next. Most people who were trying to help before that statement would just throw their hands up and quit after that, yet a select few are still here trying to help. I think you should be more thankful.
Lastly, I went back and read and it was not clear to me. What cam did you do all this swapping on? The solid with the hydraulic lifters? The one you have now? This is all way more bizarre enough than to run off most anyone who was trying to help you. This is getting very confusing because there are so many posts with so many unanswered questions.....plus some of those questions may have been answered but those answers are now buried and no one is going to look through twelveteen pages looking for the answer.
Now on top of it all, we have a mod giving us a warning about something he would be in the thick of if he were not a mod. Not trying to take a swipe at you Bill, but it's true and you know it. No one here has meant this young man any ill will. We're all still here trying to help. If it appears that we cannot take a few lighthearted (and well deserved) jabs at him, without the worry of warnings, infractions or worse, then I bet his help will dry up pretty quickly. Might wanna keep that in mind. Nobody called him nasty names. Nobody made fun of his family lineage. At least that I saw. I ain't going back through this cluster f*%$ to see. Maybe you saw something I didn't.
Now, the key to this is going to be to check one thing at the time. Find one problem at the time. Fix one thing at the time. You have gotten yourself in so deep in so many directions that you don't know which way is up. Nothing wrong with that. We've all done it a time or two. You just need to gather yourself and look at what you have and iron it out. One thing at the time. Since they are obviously wrong, I would get 8 correct plugs first. That way, you know the plug issue will be gone.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Rob, my warning was because I saw what appeared to be a train wreck on the horizon and thought it would be best to head it off. There was no need to let a train wreck happen and cause the op to loose the chance at some good information that could help fix his car. As far as my helping, it isn't going to change because I am a mod. Helping others (where I have knowledge) is why I am here to start with.
No one got an official warning that is recorded and no infractions were given.
No one got an official warning that is recorded and no infractions were given.
I understand and it was a good warning. I would just hate to see more help dry up because of the thought that we cannot keep it light hearted. We already lost Del. Which is a shame, because I think he could really have helped.
I think he needs to buy 8 NEW, CORRECT plugs; install them and try a GOOD known, or new carb like a 600cfm Holly or Eddy. I personally think after looking at his plugs, that it is dumping too much fuel and fouling them out. It doesn't get any simpler than a points ignition (which I think is in it now).
I said in an earlier post about a carb that I had, had 2 different jets in the primary metering block that caused an over-rich cond on 4 cyls. He said he and a friend rebuilt this carb a while back. Is it correct for his app? I doubt it. Is it tuned properly? Doubt it. Are the floats set too high, pulling fuel at idle? I dunno. If the plugs are fouled out, or not firing on all cyls, will the idle mixture screws not adjust? I do not think so. That carb it factory calibrated for a motor that has larger bore/stroke/ valves/ cam etc... than a stock 360
Does anyone live near this fella, that can go help him out? Maybe the OP can buy some pizza/sandwiches and beverages to get this thing worked out. Anyone have a good spare carb that can sell to him or let him borrow? 10+ pages later and this thing still doesn't run. Let's get this thing fixed.
I said in an earlier post about a carb that I had, had 2 different jets in the primary metering block that caused an over-rich cond on 4 cyls. He said he and a friend rebuilt this carb a while back. Is it correct for his app? I doubt it. Is it tuned properly? Doubt it. Are the floats set too high, pulling fuel at idle? I dunno. If the plugs are fouled out, or not firing on all cyls, will the idle mixture screws not adjust? I do not think so. That carb it factory calibrated for a motor that has larger bore/stroke/ valves/ cam etc... than a stock 360
Does anyone live near this fella, that can go help him out? Maybe the OP can buy some pizza/sandwiches and beverages to get this thing worked out. Anyone have a good spare carb that can sell to him or let him borrow? 10+ pages later and this thing still doesn't run. Let's get this thing fixed.
If I wasn't across the country I'd fix it for him, as I have the spare parts, I think he just needs to start over and do 1 thing at a time, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, set the timing , get a good carb, and call it a day.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Ok look I made a list about 2 pages back of things I have not tried. Today is Saturday. I work till mid afternoon then my plan was to come home and finish up everything I haven't tried. You're right it could be just as simple as the carburetor not running correctly. Why is it that it ran just a few months ago on a 318 I had? Tuned and adjusted and everything. Why all of a sudden is it not working on this one? Vacuum leak?
So yes the rest of the recommendations will be tried today. I really do hope at least one of them solves the issue.
So yes the rest of the recommendations will be tried today. I really do hope at least one of them solves the issue.
when you get the intake off your looking at the head intake ports for wetness in the runners some times all the way down to the valve ,some times just 1/2 in. if its wet its oil coming in raw fuel will evaporate and look very clean and dry.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
The camshaft i am using right now, that's in the car, is the factory hydraulic camshaft that came out of this motor. I checked to make sure none of the lobes were seriously rounded off. I changed the pushrods around because someone said he thought a pushrods or 2 may have been longer. The lifters are all on the same lobe as they were originally with THIS cam. The mixing around of lifters was on the previous solid cam that has been out and sold a long time ago lol
like I said just start with the basics and you will get it, as for the carb, you can take it off one engine that it works great on, and put it on a different engine and you'll have to tune it for that engine.
you said you can't tune the carb you have, so it will need to be rebuilt or replaced, because with a junk carb you'll have a hell of a time getting it right.
you said you can't tune the carb you have, so it will need to be rebuilt or replaced, because with a junk carb you'll have a hell of a time getting it right.
you need to put spark plugs on that list!
Them plugs look like they have been in there for a long time. if they are fresh plug, you have a way rich mixture going on aka carb issues.
If you bought them plugs, the parts man gave you a couple of plug that are not like the rest of them!
Get some fresh ones and make sure the parts guy give you all same part number on the plugs.
DON'T LET ME GET YOU OF TRACK! THAT LIST YOU MADE IS A VARY GOOD START IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.8)
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Sometimes in reading through all this I think he needs to get together with ONE person and start eliminating ONE possibility at a time.
Everyone throwing thier thoughts in randomly might really be causing a lot of confusion.
I'm almost positive the problem has been run across already and not solved.
Like Rob said, "There are only four things that an engine needs to run" and we seem to be going around in circles instead of a straight line of simple diagnostics.
Everyone throwing thier thoughts in randomly might really be causing a lot of confusion.
I'm almost positive the problem has been run across already and not solved.
Like Rob said, "There are only four things that an engine needs to run" and we seem to be going around in circles instead of a straight line of simple diagnostics.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I have all 8 plugs the same. Remember I replaced the 2 dead cylinders with different plugs to see if it would make any difference.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I agree man. That's why I jot down everyone's ideas and they're going to be tried out today!
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
It could be a vacuum leak but it's also possible a piece of crud got in the fuel line and sucked into the carb when you swapped it from the 318 to what you have now. All it takes is a very small piece of crud to block an idle port because the idle feed restrictions are only about .028"~.031" diameter. I've been a mechanic for 33+ yrs. and had it happen to me just this past summer so it can happen to anyone. If one idle mixture adjustment screw doesn't make any difference turned all the way in vs. all the way out that indicates that part of the carb isn't working. By it not working you may have the other side adjusted way too rich just to get the engine to run which would foul out the plugs that bank is feeding. I'd say that's a good possibility why some of the plugs look overly rich and some look way lean.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Most people, for reasons I don't understand,, tip the carb upside down to empty them,, if you did that,, that's when a good carb often becomes a problem carb..
I'm heading ssouth looking for warmth in a coupla weeks,,, and will drop in, if the matter isn't resolved by then,,
Today I'm getting new plugs, points and condenser. carb base gasket.and 1 can carb cleaner. my finger blew out of # 1 and my damper is on zero. is my rotor pointing at @#1 on distributor cap, yes! making sure I'm on top of lobe on distributor shaft I'm setting points @ 17 and installing new condenser and rotor.
I checked my distributer cap for cracks and carbon tracking.install it
gap plugs @ 35 and install
install #! plug wire on distibutor terminal facing rotor, then install on plug one at a time, next wires are #s 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise on distibutor cap install in order.
I checked my distributer cap for cracks and carbon tracking.install it
gap plugs @ 35 and install
install #! plug wire on distibutor terminal facing rotor, then install on plug one at a time, next wires are #s 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise on distibutor cap install in order.
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