Dart Clutch Adjustment Problem

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Aaron65

Aaron65

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I just finished swapping a '74 Charger 225 into my '65 Dart that originally came with a 170.

I'm using the Dart's bellhousing, clutch arm, and throwout bearing, and the Charger's flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate. I don't even remember if the Charger's pressure plate had a diaphragm spring or not, but the old pressure plate had 3 levers.

The Charger's clutch looked good, and the Dart's old one was shot.

I installed the Dart's transmission, and everything lined up well. The problem is that I now have something like 3 or 4 inches of free play in the clutch, and the pedal sticks half way and won't return unless I pull it up with my foot. I adjusted the travel all the way out, and it's still not right. I've attached a few pictures in case anything's really out of place, but I'm not sure where to start here. It seems like I need a longer adjustment arm.

If anyone can tell me where I may have screwed things up here, I'd really appreciate it.
 

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had the same issue in a 69 dart, the problem was the pressure plate. A used pressure plate can be deceiving because it might seem ok but often they are aged and weak. The pressure plate is the main spring for the whole set up.

I would say your best bet is a new clutch/pressure plate/ throw-out bearing set. Solved the problem here and a new set is $130.- $150. and will solve the problem for years of normal driving.

I get the whole idea of using used parts to save but in this case clutch parts are not always a good thing to re-use IMO.

Best of luck
 
It only takes an inch or so of travel to disengage the clutch. There is something else going on here. Either you need a longer adjustment rod or a longer rod from the clutch pedal to the z-bar. Once that is fixed, you can see if the used pressure plate is good. I presume you have the right throwout bearing and the fork is installed correctly.
Rod
 
Yes, the throwout bearing is correct and the fork moved freely and the transmission went in without trouble.

I'm really wondering if the pressure plate that's in there is a diaphragm pressure plate. I totally have forgotten. Maybe the diaphragm style is a bit different in height than the lever style. In retrospect, I wish I would have measured the free height of both pressure plates...I didn't even think of it at the time. Oh well.

It also seems like there's a funny angle between the clutch adjustment rod and the z-bar attachment. I'm not sure if it was like that before, but I'm not sure what would cause any change.
 
Aaron65 said:
Yes, the throwout bearing is correct and the fork moved freely and the transmission went in without trouble.

I'm really wondering if the pressure plate that's in there is a diaphragm pressure plate. I totally have forgotten. Maybe the diaphragm style is a bit different in height than the lever style. In retrospect, I wish I would have measured the free height of both pressure plates...I didn't even think of it at the time. Oh well.

It also seems like there's a funny angle between the clutch adjustment rod and the z-bar attachment. I'm not sure if it was like that before, but I'm not sure what would cause any change.
Click to expand...

when you get a brand new clutch kit, there are kits that replace the old style plate (three tab) with a newer style diaphragm type and they usually throw in a note saying that it is a direct replacement. That happened when I replaced the clutch set with a new one from O'reileys.

you shouldn't need a longer clutch rod or adjuster rod, they were never intended to be a frequently replaced item but the pressure plate was.

In the old days people would try to extend the adjustment rod just to get more miles out of a worn out set, but that will never match the ease of new parts. Clutches and pressure plates wear out gradually from day one and were intended to be replaced not rods.
 
I just can't see 3 or 4 inches of play regardless if the pressure plate springs are weak...
 
Here is what I do know. If you replace your Borg and Beck pressure plate with a diaphragm style (like Centerforce), you have to remove your over-center spring. That spring might be depressing the fingers of the diaphragm pressure plate causing your problem.

When I adjust my clutch for the first time, I usually loosen up the adjusting rod until the throw out bearing is just able to wiggle off the pressure plate fingers.

Rod
 
You can put a extra heavy return spring on the fork to compensate for the over center spring
 
I had the same problem when I changed my clutch and plate.
Your thinking is correct if you change from 3 finger to diaphragm type pressure plate that center spring over pedal has to go just did the same process 3 months ago had same problem removed spring and works great.
On a side note those springs are a pain to get off and snap like a monster when they pop off.
 
Where is this over center spring located? Is it in the pedal assembly?
 
The spring is easier to get off than it is to get it on.
 
Thanks for your help fellas...

I don't know, BTW, how I ended up putting this on the 4-speed forum. I meant to put it in Drivetrain Tech. Oh well.

I'm going to give the adjustment another shot (if things are not going my way, I usually stop for the day and try again later). If I can get it close, I'll remove the overcenter spring and see how it feels. The overcenter spring may be fooling my foot as far as free play goes too.

If THAT doesn't work...I ordered a lever clutch set from Rock Auto, just in case. I'll send it back if I don't need it.
 
Well, I went out with a fresh viewpoint today, and got everything (so far) to work. The engine's not running yet, but the clutch engagement seems OK.

I think the big problem is that someone in the past might have mixed up some parts. That's what you get for buying a car from a junkyard, I guess. The clutch fork doesn't line up very well with the Z-bar, so I ended up slightly bending the adjuster "screw" to fit properly. Even the Z-bar is slightly crooked, but once again, it all seems to be working. It's releasing pretty well today too, so maybe I can get away without having to remove that HUGE overcenter spring.

I can't thank you all enough for talking me down and teaching me about Dart clutches. :)
 
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