Dartin for Divorce

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DentalDart said:
...I had to... wait for it... rebleed my brakes :elmer:

I'm at a loss there is no freaking fluid anywhere and air keeps getting in the system. I'm ordering rear discs, new springs and then maybe a MC from Dr Diff.
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well, as long as the leak is at the wheel cylinders or the M/C, you'll fix it :thumbsup: if it's anywhere in between after you get the new parts on, make sure the kids aren't around to hear your "commentary" :lol:
 
66fyssh said:
Yeah, cause we never see any of those!!

Glad to see you're still busting your knuckles after the move. The engine build will be a blast!!
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Have to work on the car still since I'm still poor... :poke: maybe by the time everything is finished I'll have some extra money to paint my car. My neighbor just paid 3500 for a paint job at Maaco and I'd love if my paint looked as good as his. Not show quality but damn good quality imo. My neighbor did all his own body work though.... something I don't want to do.

My car has been doing good as a daily driver, I drive it at least 3x per week to work. (I only work 4 days :lol:)

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kursplat said:
well, as long as the leak is at the wheel cylinders or the M/C, you'll fix it :thumbsup: if it's anywhere in between after you get the new parts on, make sure the kids aren't around to hear your "commentary" :lol:
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Oh I was thinking of new calipers for the front too. I've been waiting for the thing to catch on fire or blow up while driving it... Nope the thing pulls to 90+ mph if I want to pass a car on the highway with no problem at all... well besides the pedal getting a touch soft...
 
DentalDart said:
Drove it to work on Thursday! It was a blast, caught some of the office staff off guard when I pulled in and out of the parking lot.

The drive was beautiful. It needs ac... I've been looking for another engine for this car.... I gotta build a stroker still.

I havent found a truck, but I've also stopped looking I might wait a bit and see if prices start to stabilize or maybe even come down.

I went to a small auto shop today, it's 1 guy with a shop in the back of his house in thebolder part of Republic.. Ron's Auto is the name of it.. Walk in the shop and old rs Cameron (68-9), convertible 56 thunderbird, old 50s chevy truck etc. Said his son in law is building a 68 barracuda right now and he is looking for a complete 340 engine for it.

I'm going to take my car by next week, on Wednesday him and his car buddies all get together at his garage and hang out. He also said he could tune my carb for me. He was telling me there aren't many mopars around but he has a couple friends with some and they would love to see my car next week.

Anyways here are some pictures of my drive home from work.

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Looks like some of our roads around here. Glad yall are likin it!
 
DentalDart said:
Have to work on the car still since I'm still poor... :poke: maybe by the time everything is finished I'll have some extra money to paint my car. My neighbor just paid 3500 for a paint job at Maaco and I'd love if my paint looked as good as his. Not show quality but damn good quality imo. My neighbor did all his own body work though.... something I don't want to do.

My car has been doing good as a daily driver, I drive it at least 3x per week to work. (I only work 4 days :lol:)

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maybe tap the neighbour up to do your bodywork for you, or at least help?
 
If you look around you will find someone to shot the top coat for less than 3500 labor and materials! But maybe not al the bodywork! Depends!!! After all you are not in Ca!!
 
I think that's a GREAT way for you to go.

****, I delivered a short block Magnum to a machine shop. Had it hot tanked, crank polished, pistons cleaned up, new rings and new main, rod, and cam bearings and paid $900.

It would be a great start that you can finish yourself.
 
66fyssh said:
I think that's a GREAT way for you to go.

****, I delivered a short block Magnum to a machine shop. Had it hot tanked, crank polished, pistons cleaned up, new rings and new main, rod, and cam bearings and paid $900.

It would be a great start that you can finish yourself.
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I just wonder on cost once you factor in shipping... brings it closer to probably 3500. I figure 2k for a stroker kit and 1k at the machine shop for the 360 block.

Oh well, we will figure it out soon.
 
kursplat said:
there goes the brakes $$ :steering:

:lol:
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No no no. These things will get fixed 100% before my daughter turns 16 and starts driving it :poke: lol

mygasser said:
on the budget? or actually ''there goes the brakes'' as in no new stoppers now? :rofl:
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Budget? That's always ACAP... "as cheap as possible..."
66fyssh said:
Nah, it's only money. He's a Dental Doc now! :poke:

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That's is amazing. I am a dental doctor now, making a very good paycheck but... pretty soon I have to start paying these loans back... I also need a daily driver at some point lol.
 
DentalDart said:
Budget? That's always ACAP... "as cheap as possible..."
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How many times you bled the brakes now? ;)

Sometimes it's money better spent to go with known quality over ACAP! Especially internal engine stuff. Gaskets and head bolts aren't free, LOL.
 
Phreakish said:
How many times you bled the brakes now? ;)

Sometimes it's money better spent to go with known quality over ACAP! Especially internal engine stuff. Gaskets and head bolts aren't free, LOL.
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They were doing great until coming out here and putting on the ebrake... thats when I noticed them starting to go soft. I've bled them way to many times.

I will get the good stuff this time and not cheap out on MC and calipers.

Yes engine parts will be the good stuff. Now that I have a job and make a couple of bucks I'll buy once and cry once. I've been looking at scat kits but only a couple are in stock. One balanced at Summit and has a cast crank, then a non balanced kit with forged crank. Jegs has a fully forged kit that is balanced in stock. Idk about other companies and having them in stock.
 
DentalDart said:
They were doing great until coming out here and putting on the ebrake...
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That's odd. Maybe the wheel cylinders are compressing when setting the ebrake? There should be a residual pressure valve in the master for the rears that keeps the wheel cylinders from taking much of a set. Or maybe the ebrake is over compressing? No Idea, just throwing ideas out because that seems like something that shouldn't happen.
 
Phreakish said:
That's odd. Maybe the wheel cylinders are compressing when setting the ebrake? There should be a residual pressure valve in the master for the rears that keeps the wheel cylinders from taking much of a set. Or maybe the ebrake is over compressing? No Idea, just throwing ideas out because that seems like something that shouldn't happen.
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Well ever since I used it the brakes have been trash. So something went wrong and I now am getting air in the lines. New MC getting ordered right now and will look at rear disc brake kits.
 
DentalDart said:
Well ever since I used it the brakes have been trash. So something went wrong and I now am getting air in the lines. New MC getting ordered right now and will look at rear disc brake kits.
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Rear discs are over rated for a Daily Driver. That's my 2 cents worth of advice. :soapbox:
 
DentalDart said:
Well 450 for drum brakes or 600 for all discs that I don't have to "adjust".
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Remember that disc's will also push your wheels out by 1/4 or so due to the hat thickness.

I've really never needed to adjust drum brakes. Typically once I needed to, they were better off rebuilt.

That said, import parts suck and they suck more each day. It could just be that getting a good set of wheel cylinders may be near impossible. That makes discs more attractive, since calipers are modern tech with some support..
 
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