Dartin for Divorce

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Doc, serious about a dd? I hate to say it, but the chevy pickups are probably the best way to go.
From my view as a mechanic and comparing jobs between the big 3.
Oil changes, dodge oil filter is above front diff,and spills oil everywhere when you fumble with it. Ford? Above diff also, long arm and proper tool required.
Chev? Bottom of engine,mount is cast into oil pan.

spark plugs? Chevy wins, hands down. Cheap plugs and you can see them. All.

Exhaust manifolds? Bolts and studs break on all 3, gms are easier to get at.
Intake manifolds are by far way easier to get out on the gm engines too.

to each his own but i wouldnt think twice about buying a chevy over a dodge or a ford.
They get decent fuel mileage too.

Yes serious about needing a daily at some point... I like the chevys they look nice, the GM looks slightly better and for the same price you actually get a couple more upgraded features. I just hate that their interior is stuck in the 90s lol. I'm pretty sure you can get the gmc at4 which has the 6.2L in it over the 5.3.
 
^^^^ And IF you do buy the Chevy pickup, you can always put that big MOPAR sticker on the side of the bed. Thats what that do there where you are now, ya know!!!!! LOL
Check out the Rt. 66 deal that will be coming up in think in Aug and the big general swap at the fairgrounds in Aug also.
You just missed a pretty decent Mopar event in East St Louis.

Rt66 deal in August was just canceled unfortunately.

I need to get me one of these Hemi GTX 1500's... spotted it in the wild the other day :lol:

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Hey Doc. I'm sure you got some looks pulling into work!

How's the job going?

Yea I get thumbs up and people shouting out their windows while driving all the time. Luckily they don't see it up closer than 10ft or they'd see all the imperfections about the car haha.

The job is good, for my 1st week I was pretty dang busy and didn't fall to far behind. They were happy and said I did a great job, I was pretty hard in myself because I am a perfectionist at work and with dentistry.
 
Door lock put back together on the passenger side. Some rubber door pieces installed back on the car. Carb and choke adjusted- got most of the flare up out of the 2-3rd shift. Rear brakes adjusted. Backs of the seats installed... rear window trim reinstalled where it came up.... I think im done for the day.

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Took the car to Ron's Auto here in Republic. My timing was a little off? Idk how that can happen but he messed with the distributor 16 initial and 36 all in without vacuum.

Then he tuned my 4 idle adjusent screws, messed with my kd cable and my throttle cable. The car drives much better! Burning tires all the way through 1st and into 2nd. Not much 2nd-3rd gear flare up. I'm happy for now.

Then my daughter wanted to wash it... she only lasted 5 minutes of helping before taking off to go play with friends. My younger daughter had a blast though!

Called Clay and Sons in Missouri looking for a 340 or 360 block, he will call me back tomorrow because his son now runs the business. Still on the hunt for a block, I want to get the block started now so I have it done before the black Friday speedmaster sale where I will get some small block heads!

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Right now price is at 2500... I think I could get it for 2k... complete 340 with a 4spd tranny... (not stock and unknown build on it, the wife's husband died last month and a friend is helping her sell it)...

Idk what it would be worth especially without knowing the bore of the engine... the friend of the widow said he would do a compression check on it for me, but he is 67 and doesn't know much on mopars since he is a chevy guy.

Seems to be a 68 block with x heads, some kind of hi rise intake, adjustable rockers and idk on the internals of the block... it was in a running 68 dart but the dart was rear ended, guy kept the motor then passed away from covid I guess. Wife needs it out of her garage as she is moving now.

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I also got ahold of a guy here in Springfield who has a 76 360 with 57k out of a motorhome. He said 225 for that...
 
The 340 looks to have an old Predator carb on it, typically used for racing ¼ mile. If the shield and flywheel are on the engine the starter could be attached and you should have them run the engine a short while to make sure it runs, dosen't knock and had oil pressure. 2200 is fair you should start at 1700 if she really wants it gone you could get it for 2k. A Hurst ram 4 shifter too:thumbsup:. Worst case it's got good parts and rebuildable. The 360 from a motor home, 76 might be a 4brl engine, forget when they stopped using the 4brl? Either case always best to hear them run 1st
 
The 340 looks to have an old Predator carb on it, typically used for racing ¼ mile. If the shield and flywheel are on the engine the starter could be attached and you should have them run the engine a short while to make sure it runs, dosen't knock and had oil pressure. 2200 is fair you should start at 1700 if she really wants it gone you could get it for 2k. A Hurst ram 4 shifter too:thumbsup:. Worst case it's got good parts and rebuildable. The 360 from a motor home, 76 might be a 4brl engine, forget when they stopped using the 4brl? Either case always best to hear them run 1st

Well one is in St Louis, kind of hard to hear it run. The 360 will just be for the block to take to the machine shop :) so I can upset my wife with building an engine haha.
 
Don't do it...build an engine, too much $$$$$. "If" after the Machine shop checks the block and it's good... then they'll recommend; decking, align boring main journals, .030" bore cylinders, cut the crank mains and rods .010", this will merit nitriding the crank and hardening the journals and install new cam bearings. Now this work is typically recommended to provide a solid foundation for you to start with. Then you'll need to get the rods squared and sized - if they're good - if not count on new rods, then with cylinder over-bore new pistons, piston pins, rings, oil pump, timing set, bearings and the list continues. Even if you build it at home you're still going to need heads, gaskets, rocker covers, and believe me the list keeps continuing. Then, based on heads, cam, intake & headers you choose who knows what you'll end up with? Will it be a "goer", "shower" or blow up during cam break-in...
I strongly suggest you look online for a crate engine. They're built based on proficiency and knowledge of what works, more importantly knowledge of what doesn't work. When you decide which engine you think you want you talk with person who'll ask tons of questions; intended use of car, what car is it going in, transmission type, rear end ratio and even tire size. What you can get is a crate that's "carb to oil pan" dyno broken in, professionally built, dyno pull sheet accompanying the engine as well as a warranty.
Now crates aren't cheap either, but re-read above = professionally built, dialed to your car's set up, complete ready to drop in and go as well as guaranteed.
Believe me I know building your own engine is romantic, enticing, let's you pound your chest "if" it works and performs to your expectations and all that. But if not you'll be starting over "or" buying another engine.
Not trying to burst your bubble or be a Debbie Downer, just suggesting what I think will give best bang for your buck. I forgot to mention whichever way you go when increasing engine power your "weak link" will be the trans if automatic plan on a performance built unit (also available in crate and guaranteed), torque converter, shifter and etc. If a stick trans, new flywheel and performance clutch & pressure plate..

Examples:
1- in 78 I built a 289 C-code (typical 2brl engine) after all said and done I was in it for $3,500. Calculate that into today's $...
2- last summer my best buddy and I dropped a 347 stroker (302 Ford, punched, stroked, balanced, roller engine) in his 67 Falcon Futura Sports Coupe. $5,000 pan to carb, including distributor all he needed was the dampener/harmonic balancer. The dyno sheet displayed 420 horsepower & 429 torque.
Don't get a excited by the 5k as stroker small block MoPars will cost about 2 times as the little 347, but if the crate is 360 magnum based they typically go 402 cubic inches and based on more ci and what you want I think they can go as much as 426 ci.
Do your research and weigh your options on the end result for the $ you'll spend.
Hope this didn't disappoint and instead helps.
Enjoy:thumbsup:
 
I think a crate engine is a great idea, since you will not have Tony around to keep you straight.
Throw a fresh crate in the car, then if you have the desire to build an engine freshen up the one that came out of the car.
 
I think a crate engine is a great idea, since you will not have Tony around to keep you straight.
Throw a fresh crate in the car, then if you have the desire to build an engine freshen up the one that came out of the car.

I'll ask Tony questions all along the way... I already gave been. He advised my to get a BP stroker since I don't have any of the parts to build a motor... :(
 
Don't do it...build an engine, too much $$$$$. "If" after the Machine shop checks the block and it's good... then they'll recommend; decking, align boring main journals, .030" bore cylinders, cut the crank mains and rods .010", this will merit nitriding the crank and hardening the journals and install new cam bearings. Now this work is typically recommended to provide a solid foundation for you to start with. Then you'll need to get the rods squared and sized - if they're good - if not count on new rods, then with cylinder over-bore new pistons, piston pins, rings, oil pump, timing set, bearings and the list continues. Even if you build it at home you're still going to need heads, gaskets, rocker covers, and believe me the list keeps continuing. Then, based on heads, cam, intake & headers you choose who knows what you'll end up with? Will it be a "goer", "shower" or blow up during cam break-in...
I strongly suggest you look online for a crate engine. They're built based on proficiency and knowledge of what works, more importantly knowledge of what doesn't work. When you decide which engine you think you want you talk with person who'll ask tons of questions; intended use of car, what car is it going in, transmission type, rear end ratio and even tire size. What you can get is a crate that's "carb to oil pan" dyno broken in, professionally built, dyno pull sheet accompanying the engine as well as a warranty.
Now crates aren't cheap either, but re-read above = professionally built, dialed to your car's set up, complete ready to drop in and go as well as guaranteed.
Believe me I know building your own engine is romantic, enticing, let's you pound your chest "if" it works and performs to your expectations and all that. But if not you'll be starting over "or" buying another engine.
Not trying to burst your bubble or be a Debbie Downer, just suggesting what I think will give best bang for your buck. I forgot to mention whichever way you go when increasing engine power your "weak link" will be the trans if automatic plan on a performance built unit (also available in crate and guaranteed), torque converter, shifter and etc. If a stick trans, new flywheel and performance clutch & pressure plate..

Examples:
1- in 78 I built a 289 C-code (typical 2brl engine) after all said and done I was in it for $3,500. Calculate that into today's $...
2- last summer my best buddy and I dropped a 347 stroker (302 Ford, punched, stroked, balanced, roller engine) in his 67 Falcon Futura Sports Coupe. $5,000 pan to carb, including distributor all he needed was the dampener/harmonic balancer. The dyno sheet displayed 420 horsepower & 429 torque.
Don't get a excited by the 5k as stroker small block MoPars will cost about 2 times as the little 347, but if the crate is 360 magnum based they typically go 402 cubic inches and based on more ci and what you want I think they can go as much as 426 ci.
Do your research and weigh your options on the end result for the $ you'll spend.
Hope this didn't disappoint and instead helps.
Enjoy:thumbsup:

I've already been advised by Tony and another mopar buddy to get a BP Motor... but 10k for a motor that has 465hp and 495tq seems like an awful lot of money for not much more power than I have now... I think if I added AL heads and more cam I'd be close to that now... I also don't know any other crate engine stroker motors.

As for cost the I understand it would be an expensive undertaking. Building it at least spreads the money out vs dumping 10k all at once for the BP... if I want a transmission with the BP it's 13k... thats a whole Lotta coin for only 470hp no? I figure 1k-1200 for transmission rebuild with a new tc and maybe 5-7k for a complete engine. Then when the engine gets finished and old one pulled I can take care of the body work and paint on the car.

This also gives me a project :D
 
I've already been advised by Tony and another mopar buddy to get a BP Motor... but 10k for a motor that has 465hp and 495tq seems like an awful lot of money for not much more power than I have now... I think if I added AL heads and more cam I'd be close to that now... I also don't know any other crate engine stroker motors.

As for cost the I understand it would be an expensive undertaking. Building it at least spreads the money out vs dumping 10k all at once for the BP... if I want a transmission with the BP it's 13k... thats a whole Lotta coin for only 470hp no? I figure 1k-1200 for transmission rebuild with a new tc and maybe 5-7k for a complete engine. Then when the engine gets finished and old one pulled I can take care of the body work and paint on the car.

This also gives me a project :D
I hear ya. I'd do a crate myself if I didn't already have a decent engine. Now you mention "only 470 hp", you do realize that's big block power right :lol: and from a smaller, lighter, easier to fit and work on engine. If you're considering al heads get the whole package, cam, lifters, assembled heads. Call and talk to several vendors they should ask similar questions as the crate engine folk would so you don't end up with a bunch of miss matched parts that look great but don't work well together. So with your present setup what do you think you hp & tq are? See if there's a shop around with a chassis dyno and get some base numbers. For a little extra $ the place should be able to tweak things and test while on their dyno...you'd be surprised at what they can find in what you already have with carb and timing tweaks.
 
470 hp? Then there is the brake upgrades,rear end self dismantling and all the tires needed to playing with the fun pedal.

from what i have been reading about BP is they are well built.
Which i would consider dependability. There is nothing worse than a driveable hot rod that is constantly broken down.
 
470 hp? Then there is the brake upgrades,rear end self dismantling and all the tires needed to playing with the fun pedal.

from what i have been reading about BP is they are well built.
Which i would consider dependability. There is nothing worse than a driveable hot rod that is constantly broken down.
and right there is the project the op says he wants, upgrading everything else to handle the power of the crate motor. plus swapping/upgrading the running gear has much less chance for catastrophe than building a motor for the first time.
neil.
 
470 hp? Then there is the brake upgrades,rear end self dismantling and all the tires needed to playing with the fun pedal.

from what i have been reading about BP is they are well built.
Which i would consider dependability. There is nothing worse than a driveable hot rod that is constantly broken down.

Yay I get to do my brakes... again :rofl: I want rear discs, but to do that I need to get new wheels... and tires and spring relocations. I'm already on the hunt for a 3.91 489 case :D

I agree, BP sounds really dependable... will it help my windshield wipers go down? Or help my alt guage from going crazy??? Lol its been pegging itself while driving 70-75mph, but bounces when I turn in the blinkers lol.

I mean a drivable hotrod that is constantly broken down is just a step down from my drivable hotrod that has constant quirks going on
 
and right there is the project the op says he wants, upgrading everything else to handle the power of the crate motor. plus swapping/upgrading the running gear has much less chance for catastrophe than building a motor for the first time.
neil.

I like upgrades... I also long to build this thing to the way it deserves to be built. To stop doing it all the cheap way... let's get it going to where it runs good and looks mint. Then throw the kids in the backseat and have some fun.

he sounds like good friend, you should listen to him :thumbsup:
neil.

I usually do listen to him. 10k is more than I bought my car for. I wonder if they have black Friday sales?

Or a TonyPrint 408 stroker motor would be GREAT!
 
probably a good plan (bearing in mind you take the family in the car) would be to build the 'car' to handle a 500hp ish engine and fit/buy/build the engine last. you'll be much happier with the car when you up the power that way.
neil.
 
probably a good plan (bearing in mind you take the family in the car) would be to build the 'car' to handle a 500hp ish engine and fit/buy/build the engine last. you'll be much happier with the car when you up the power that way.
neil.
Neil is right on the money DD. Upgrade the unibody, rear end, suspension, and brakes to handle what you intend to put in it. TBH my "fun car" 2007 mustang GT has a 300hp 4.6L V8 5 speed and 3.55s and it pretty freaking fast as it is. It will peg 140mph, and idles great. I dont need to go any faster than that. 500hp is a lot on the street especially without electronic nannys. I know hellkittys are like 700hp, but they also have the added benefits of yaw sensors, active suspensions ABS, and TCS which help Joe average to drive it like a pro. What I'm trying to say is 500 hp you may hit that mark, and many do, and then they dont enjoy driving the car as much.

Not trying to tell you how to build the car, but going to explain the nuts and bolts of the one I am building with/for my son. 69 barracuda coupe so basically a 108" wheelbase dart. 3200 lb car. We added subframe connectors, upgraded to big bolt pattern with cordoba big calipers and discs, ford explorer 8.8 with discs, and a hellwig 1&1/8" front sway bar. The usual polyurethane bushings all around etc.

Now to the drivetrain. It will be a 300hp warmed up 318. Yes a 318. Trans is a 42RH with lockup and O/D out of a V6 1992 Dakota. This trans has 3 mechanical forward gears like your 3 speed automatic so your stock floor shifter can be retained. The O/D and lockup are electric. I went 42RH which is A904 based for several reasons. 1 they can be built to handle up to 500hp so behind a 300hp engine it will be reliable. 2 they are smaller and lighter than the 46RH. And 3 the 1st gear gearing is lower than the 46RH to help a V6 truck pull a load from a standing start. That lower first gear ratio makes it more lively with a decent V8 and 3.73s outta the hole. Turn the lockup and O/D on above 55mph with a toggle switch, turn them off below 55mph with the same switch. The rear end gearing of 3.73 ratio along with 25" tall tires on 15x7 chrysler steel rims.

Whats in gearing? A lot. With the 300hp, 3.73s, and low first gear gearing that the 42RH has, this things gonna be really quick in first thought 3rd gears, and a 300hp 318 will not be real cantankerous to run. At 75 mph on the highway with the lockup and O/D turned on and the RPMs will sit at about 2400 rpm. Best of both worlds, on a rock solid chassis with good brakes and mostly stock parts with enhancements and upgrades. You get loads of stoplight fun, and long legs for lower RPM distance driving.

Again not telling you how to do your build. Just explaining our build, and showing you a different option you may not realize is out there. A lot of times, or dare I say most times, it's not all about just absolute horsepower, but about a carefully selected package of horsepower, gearing, suspension, brakes, and chassis. I have a long winded build thread. Not sure if you looked at it. 67/68/69 cuda dilemma. All the information is there on the 42RH install mockup, and soon the 318 buildup once the block is out of machine shop jail. I feel the combo of (lower levels) of HP which is easier to build, and with better idle and driving manners, along with the rest of the package will make for something that's fun to drive, and not a chore to drive.

Matt
 
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