. Worst case it's got good parts and rebuildable. The 360 from a motor home, 76 might be a 4brl engine, forget when they stopped using the 4brl? Either case always best to hear them run 1st
The 340 looks to have an old Predator carb on it, typically used for racing ¼ mile. If the shield and flywheel are on the engine the starter could be attached and you should have them run the engine a short while to make sure it runs, dosen't knock and had oil pressure. 2200 is fair you should start at 1700 if she really wants it gone you could get it for 2k. A Hurst ram 4 shifter too
so I can upset my wife with building an engine haha.
Don't do it...build an engine, too much $$$$$. "If" after the Machine shop checks the block and it's good... then they'll recommend; decking, align boring main journals, .030" bore cylinders, cut the crank mains and rods .010", this will merit nitriding the crank and hardening the journals and install new cam bearings. Now this work is typically recommended to provide a solid foundation for you to start with. Then you'll need to get the rods squared and sized - if they're good - if not count on new rods, then with cylinder over-bore new pistons, piston pins, rings, oil pump, timing set, bearings and the list continues. Even if you build it at home you're still going to need heads, gaskets, rocker covers, and believe me the list keeps continuing. Then, based on heads, cam, intake & headers you choose who knows what you'll end up with? Will it be a "goer", "shower" or blow up during cam break-in...
I strongly suggest you look online for a crate engine. They're built based on proficiency and knowledge of what works, more importantly knowledge of what doesn't work. When you decide which engine you think you want you talk with person who'll ask tons of questions; intended use of car, what car is it going in, transmission type, rear end ratio and even tire size. What you can get is a crate that's "carb to oil pan" dyno broken in, professionally built, dyno pull sheet accompanying the engine as well as a warranty.
Now crates aren't cheap either, but re-read above = professionally built, dialed to your car's set up, complete ready to drop in and go as well as guaranteed.
Believe me I know building your own engine is romantic, enticing, let's you pound your chest "if" it works and performs to your expectations and all that. But if not you'll be starting over "or" buying another engine.
Not trying to burst your bubble or be a Debbie Downer, just suggesting what I think will give best bang for your buck. I forgot to mention whichever way you go when increasing engine power your "weak link" will be the trans if automatic plan on a performance built unit (also available in crate and guaranteed), torque converter, shifter and etc. If a stick trans, new flywheel and performance clutch & pressure plate..
Examples:
1- in 78 I built a 289 C-code (typical 2brl engine) after all said and done I was in it for $3,500. Calculate that into today's $...
2- last summer my best buddy and I dropped a 347 stroker (302 Ford, punched, stroked, balanced, roller engine) in his 67 Falcon Futura Sports Coupe. $5,000 pan to carb, including distributor all he needed was the dampener/harmonic balancer. The dyno sheet displayed 420 horsepower & 429 torque.
Don't get a excited by the 5k as stroker small block MoPars will cost about 2 times as the little 347, but if the crate is 360 magnum based they typically go 402 cubic inches and based on more ci and what you want I think they can go as much as 426 ci.
Do your research and weigh your options on the end result for the $ you'll spend.
Hope this didn't disappoint and instead helps.
Enjoy
I hear ya. I'd do a crate myself if I didn't already have a decent engine. Now you mention "only 470 hp", you do realize that's big block power rightI've already been advised by Tony and another mopar buddy to get a BP Motor... but 10k for a motor that has 465hp and 495tq seems like an awful lot of money for not much more power than I have now... I think if I added AL heads and more cam I'd be close to that now... I also don't know any other crate engine stroker motors.
As for cost the I understand it would be an expensive undertaking. Building it at least spreads the money out vs dumping 10k all at once for the BP... if I want a transmission with the BP it's 13k... thats a whole Lotta coin for only 470hp no? I figure 1k-1200 for transmission rebuild with a new tc and maybe 5-7k for a complete engine. Then when the engine gets finished and old one pulled I can take care of the body work and paint on the car.
This also gives me a project
and from a smaller, lighter, easier to fit and work on engine. If you're considering al heads get the whole package, cam, lifters, assembled heads. Call and talk to several vendors they should ask similar questions as the crate engine folk would so you don't end up with a bunch of miss matched parts that look great but don't work well together. So with your present setup what do you think you hp & tq are? See if there's a shop around with a chassis dyno and get some base numbers. For a little extra $ the place should be able to tweak things and test while on their dyno...you'd be surprised at what they can find in what you already have with carb and timing tweaks.
and right there is the project the op says he wants, upgrading everything else to handle the power of the crate motor. plus swapping/upgrading the running gear has much less chance for catastrophe than building a motor for the first time.
he sounds like good friend, you should listen to himI'll ask Tony questions all along the way... I already gave been. He advised my to get a BP stroker since I don't have any of the parts to build a motor...
I want rear discs, but to do that I need to get new wheels... and tires and spring relocations. I'm already on the hunt for a 3.91 489 case
he sounds like good friend, you should listen to him
neil.
Neil is right on the money DD. Upgrade the unibody, rear end, suspension, and brakes to handle what you intend to put in it. TBH my "fun car" 2007 mustang GT has a 300hp 4.6L V8 5 speed and 3.55s and it pretty freaking fast as it is. It will peg 140mph, and idles great. I dont need to go any faster than that. 500hp is a lot on the street especially without electronic nannys. I know hellkittys are like 700hp, but they also have the added benefits of yaw sensors, active suspensions ABS, and TCS which help Joe average to drive it like a pro. What I'm trying to say is 500 hp you may hit that mark, and many do, and then they dont enjoy driving the car as much.
