Dartin for Divorce

-
Joe Mc said:
AGS Nickel Copper Brake Line Coil & Tube Nut Kit

Much easier to work with as it is more flexible and don't rust. Cost is between steel and S/S. Worth every penny MHO
Click to expand...

Yea i actually wanted copper line but the auto store didn't have any only the line that I got. The line I got isn't actually to hard to work with its just the flaring it that has been giving me troubles.
 
I've had a break through with flaring the brake lines. Quality line flare kit, every flare I've done is perfect today!

I went to autozone and bought their 20 dollar kit, thinking I'd use the nipple, then return the oreillys one with a non broken nipple so I didnt get charged for it. Now I'm sad to get rid of the 20 dollar kit because it is working so well!

I've redone all of the flares on each line and they are all great! If you can't tell by all of the exclamation marks, I'm very stoked for this new tool and these lines.

Left to Right-
Pre-made line with flare
Flare from New flare tool
Flare from old flare tool

20200520_155913.jpg


20200520_155854.jpg
 
Dartsun said:
Hell yeah nothing beats a quality flare tool. Most tools get what you pay for
Click to expand...

Its only a 20 dollar tool, essentially the same thing just works 100x better! (Bottom one) No more wing nuts, quality steel bolts and with using a ratchet with 1/2in socket on it the tools do the work and not your fingers.

20200520_163851.jpg
 
Take the broken one back anyway, they usually don't charge for damage because there is lots of wear and tear on rental tools..
 
DentalDart said:
Disc's in the front and Drums in the rear.
Click to expand...
Don't know if this was already covered but here goes. Make sure to adj. the rears properly and this will give you a nice high pedal and a firm feel. First have the car in neutral and if you have a posi. remove the drum on the oppisite side. It's a good idea to do a dry run, take a old thin screwdriver and put a little bend in it. With the drum off and in the front hole push the bottom of the self adjustment mecanisem away from the adjuster. Pratice a few times on both sides. Now install the drums and practice snuging
DentalDart said:
Yea i actually wanted copper line but the auto store didn't have any only the line that I got. The line I got isn't actually to hard to work with its just the flaring it that has been giving me troubles.
Click to expand...
Never ever use copper line for brake lines. NEVER!!
 
LO23M8B said:
Don't know if this was already covered but here goes. Make sure to adj. the rears properly and this will give you a nice high pedal and a firm feel. First have the car in neutral and if you have a posi. remove the drum on the oppisite side. It's a good idea to do a dry run, take a old thin screwdriver and put a little bend in it. With the drum off and in the front hole push the bottom of the self adjustment mecanisem away from the adjuster. Pratice a few times on both sides. Now install the drums and practice snuging

Never ever use copper line for brake lines. NEVER!!
Click to expand...
I didn't mean to send that first segment. It wasn't finished. I will finish it after dinner. Plus I never heard of that copper nickel alloy might be good? Anyone else use it?
 
DentalDart said:
Its only a 20 dollar tool, essentially the same thing just works 100x better! (Bottom one) No more wing nuts, quality steel bolts and with using a ratchet with 1/2in socket on it the tools do the work and not your fingers.

View attachment 1715532216
Click to expand...
Nice sounds like somebody took the first kit and made it better. Glad it worked out. I’d take the broke one back also lol.
 
LO23M8B said:
Don't know if this was already covered but here goes. Make sure to adj. the rears properly and this will give you a nice high pedal and a firm feel. First have the car in neutral and if you have a posi. remove the drum on the oppisite side. It's a good idea to do a dry run, take a old thin screwdriver and put a little bend in it. With the drum off and in the front hole push the bottom of the self adjustment mecanisem away from the adjuster. Pratice a few times on both sides. Now install the drums and practice snuging

Never ever use copper line for brake lines. NEVER!!
Click to expand...

Yea i dislike adjusting drums. Ill start installing the lines here in a bit. I have the front passenger side all in place just have to attach it, and I may have made it a touch to long on the part that traverses the firewall. Its OK though, ill make it work.
 
LO23M8B said:
Don't know if this was already covered but here goes. Make sure to adj. the rears properly and this will give you a nice high pedal and a firm feel. First have the car in neutral and if you have a posi. remove the drum on the oppisite side. It's a good idea to do a dry run, take a old thin screwdriver and put a little bend in it. With the drum off and in the front hole push the bottom of the self adjustment mecanisem away from the adjuster. Pratice a few times on both sides. Now install the drums and practice snuging

Never ever use copper line for brake lines. NEVER!!
Click to expand...
Anyways, now install the drums and practice snugging the drums up, when you get close to locking them up go one click at a time till it locks then back off approx. 6 single clicks. What you want to do is get the same feel on both sides when locking them up. Very important you want both sides the same. You can adjust each side 1 to 2 off from each other to get a even feel. ALSO ALWAYS ROTATE EACH SIDE AS IF YOU ARE DRIVING FORWARD!! AND KEEP SPINING THE DRUM FORWARD AS YOU WORK. They should be fully seated all the way on if they flip flop in the beginning you can install 2 or 3 lug nuts with some washers to keep them on. I really should have started with this because not a lot of people know this, so FIRST loosen the parking brake cable about a inch or more this will make sure the shoes are properly seated so you can properly adjusted the shoes. You will never get the proper braking without all these steps. When done adjusting the shoes now you can adjust the parking brake, tighten it up till you lock up the brakes on about 4 clicks. Now check and make sure the brakes are not dragging if they are loosen a little more. When you get all done it will stop like a new vehicle. Test once or twice in the driveway as you'll put yourself into the windshield. Gots to keep the wife and kiddies safe. Ride on brother.
 
LO23M8B said:
Anyways, now install the drums and practice snugging the drums up, when you get close to locking them up go one click at a time till it locks then back off approx. 6 single clicks. What you want to do is get the same feel on both sides when locking them up. Very important you want both sides the same. You can adjust each side 1 to 2 off from each other to get a even feel. ALSO ALWAYS ROTATE EACH SIDE AS IF YOU ARE DRIVING FORWARD!! AND KEEP SPINING THE DRUM FORWARD AS YOU WORK. They should be fully seated all the way on if they flip flop in the beginning you can install 2 or 3 lug nuts with some washers to keep them on. I really should have started with this because not a lot of people know this, so FIRST loosen the parking brake cable about a inch or more this will make sure the shoes are properly seated so you can properly adjusted the shoes. You will never get the proper braking without all these steps. When done adjusting the shoes now you can adjust the parking brake, tighten it up till you lock up the brakes on about 4 clicks. Now check and make sure the brakes are not dragging if they are loosen a little more. When you get all done it will stop like a new vehicle. Test once or twice in the driveway as you'll put yourself into the windshield. Gots to keep the wife and kiddies safe. Ride on brother.
Click to expand...
As i dont see much for drum brakes any more ,i make sure top of shoes are touching anchor pin,the spreader bar isnt tight between shoes and install drum.
Figure out how to hold adjuster lever as mentioned, even a wire around it to pull it away from starwheel. Adjust until shoes are tight, then back off until drum releases. A slight rub is fine, shoes will center themselves.
 
DentalDart said:
Thats what I've been trying. Then when it starts to get a little offset bent I use the body work hammer and tap it back a little. That's actually how I broke the little nipple off of the flare attachment.
Click to expand...
i just take the burrs off with a fine tooth file. straight across the face at 90' and then lightly around the outside to take the hard edge off. everything is nice and smooth then and the insert can roll the edge properly
 
Line from prop valve to rear hose and both lines on the rear axle are installed! Almost perfect fits for the rear axle lines, had to do just a touch bending because they were slightly longer.

Line from prop valve to rear is perfecto! Wish I could show a picture with all the bends.

Only problem I have with the front lines is I think they are 3/16 line but larger than 3/8 fittings.... here is a picture of the prop valve with the old line going to the front passenger and new line I installed a while ago but had to use an adapter. I bet since not 3/8 its the next size up.

20200520_200318.jpg


20200520_201040.jpg


20200520_201026.jpg


20200520_201050.jpg
 
In a few spots these old Mopars use fittings with bigger threads and a bigger hex, but the flare/line size inside is the same as all the other lines. I guess it was an "idiot proofing" thing to avoid having some of the lines mis-assembled.
 
69_340_GTS said:
In a few spots these old Mopars use fittings with bigger threads and a bigger hex, but the flare/line size inside is the same as all the other lines. I guess it was an "idiot proofing" thing to avoid having some of the lines mis-assembled.
Click to expand...

Yea i ran into this problem last time, I think I used a 1/4 in adapter but I believe the correct size fitting is a 5/16 standard inverted flare fitting. I'll go grab some fittings tomorrow and try them out, the ones that work will make this brake line job complete.... unless I change out those rear wheel cylinders.
 
LO23M8B said:
Anyways, now install the drums and practice snugging the drums up, when you get close to locking them up go one click at a time till it locks then back off approx. 6 single clicks. What you want to do is get the same feel on both sides when locking them up. Very important you want both sides the same. You can adjust each side 1 to 2 off from each other to get a even feel. ALSO ALWAYS ROTATE EACH SIDE AS IF YOU ARE DRIVING FORWARD!! AND KEEP SPINING THE DRUM FORWARD AS YOU WORK. They should be fully seated all the way on if they flip flop in the beginning you can install 2 or 3 lug nuts with some washers to keep them on. I really should have started with this because not a lot of people know this, so FIRST loosen the parking brake cable about a inch or more this will make sure the shoes are properly seated so you can properly adjusted the shoes. You will never get the proper braking without all these steps. When done adjusting the shoes now you can adjust the parking brake, tighten it up till you lock up the brakes on about 4 clicks. Now check and make sure the brakes are not dragging if they are loosen a little more. When you get all done it will stop like a new vehicle. Test once or twice in the driveway as you'll put yourself into the windshield. Gots to keep the wife and kiddies safe. Ride on brother.
Click to expand...

So much work... I'm supposed to write a paper tonight and tomorrow to have it turned in before 12... I'd rather do the brakes, but I smashed the **** out of my thumb today. I'll make sure I follow all of these steps when doing the rears.

Tooljunkie said:
As i dont see much for drum brakes any more ,i make sure top of shoes are touching anchor pin,the spreader bar isnt tight between shoes and install drum.
Figure out how to hold adjuster lever as mentioned, even a wire around it to pull it away from starwheel. Adjust until shoes are tight, then back off until drum releases. A slight rub is fine, shoes will center themselves.
Click to expand...

Thanks! You and LO23 sound experienced at doing drum brakes... you are more than welcome to come and do mine and ill just supervise...and drink a beer...

kursplat said:
i just take the burrs off with a fine tooth file. straight across the face at 90' and then lightly around the outside to take the hard edge off. everything is nice and smooth then and the insert can roll the edge properly
Click to expand...

This!!! Its exactly what I did, creating that outer chamfer works well. I used a large file to file everything down and went back over it all with a nail file then 1k grit sandpaper at the end before attaching it all up.
 
Those odd fittings? I reuse them.
Some are whacky threads, test fit before you flare it onto the line.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Those odd fittings? I reuse them.
Some are whacky threads, test fit before you flare it onto the line.
Click to expand...

Yea I'm going to go and get new fittings and I will test fit them all. I'm pretty sure they are 5/16

missing linc said:
I try to reuse fittings whenever possible, as log as they are not mangled.
Click to expand...

I would but unfortunately I only have 1 of the old fittings and it has pretty stripped head so tightening it is pretty hard.
 
All new lines hooked up! 7/16-24 fitting sizes at the proportioning valve for the front lines and they are 3/16 -24 fitting sizes where they meet the front hoses.

20200521_163952.jpg
 
3/8-24 and 7/16-20 as far as I know. Just SAE fine thread. Nothing weird about them except that internally they both fit the 3/16 brake lines.
 
69_340_GTS said:
3/8-24 and 7/16-20 as far as I know. Just SAE fine thread. Nothing weird about them except that internally they both fit the 3/16 brake lines.
Click to expand...

I found this on FABO to use as reference

The the store didn't have 7/16-20 and was only had 7/16-24. I threaded the fittings on without a brake line before putting the fittings on the lines and they threaded on nicely.

$_57.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top