Dartin for Divorce

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Here try this, on the rear of the pass side valve cover remove the breather and blow thru the part that goes into the valve cover with your mouth. No restriction or pluged?
Try the ******** it's cheap and easy, like me. And I've seen it before and no one could figure it out.
 
Do one of the pass side rear please.

I dont really have any. Here is one but I dont have the car with me so I can't take a new one.

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Take the fuel cap off and see if it will start. Let it idle and see if it will die before getting back on road home. If it stays running with cap off, drive it home.
 
Isn’t the buzzing to notify you door is open or key left in the ignition ? I thought the later darts had them.
 
Isn’t the buzzing to notify you door is open or key left in the ignition ? I thought the later darts had them.

Mine is a 69 and it is the coil doing this when the key is in the on position before cranking it over. After cranking it it stops.

 
That’s why I went with a in tank Pump With fuel return always had issues in summer with vapour lock new mechanical pump failure, insulated fuel lines and phenolic spacer in the engine bay did help but man in traffic I would be sweating the car would stall than sitting it out for it to cool down. You could have some crap on your tank pick up restricting fuel flow. Doc you using Ethonol mix fuel ? With that buzz sound in your coil is there any cracks around the front plastic section ?
 
That’s why I went with a in tank Pump With fuel return always had issues in summer with vapour lock new mechanical pump failure, insulated fuel lines and phenolic spacer in the engine bay did help but man in traffic I would be sweating the car would stall than sitting it out for it to cool down. You could have some crap on your tank pick up restricting fuel flow. Doc you using Ethonol mix fuel ? With that buzz sound in your coil is there any cracks around the front plastic section ?

What electric fuel pump did you get? I have a 1/2in spacer and new fuel lines from the mechanical pump. I have no clue what the tank looks like, but my old see through fuel filter was clean as a whistle. I use 91 octane fuel, maybe I should start using an octane booster one day.

The coil, rotor, distributor, wires, and plugs are all new. Only things old or havent been rebuilt are fuel pump, fuel pickup, and fuel lines... oh and the wire harness and ac system...

Edit the ecu and ballast havent been replaced either
 
You just need to vent the tank. No need for elec fuel pump, but the elec pump will help with other things.. Especially when the bowls evaporate.
 
Maybe @kursplat was right and the purple car is going to be a trailer queen... everytime I try to drive it lately the damn thing dies on me.
wasn't trying to jinks you :rolleyes:

I'm getting good at dying in parking lots thats for sure... let the car warm up, then brought it 1.5 miles down the street and died in the parking lot.

It died on me pulling into the 7-11 parking lot going really slow. It stuttered a bit in the neighborhood. I gave her some gas and it ran great until i had to wait at the light for 5 minutes, then started sputtering when turning into the gas station.

sounds like it's vapor locking. my 74' used to try and do the same thing any time i was sitting in traffic too long, as soon as i take off from a light it would sputter and get ready to die. usually i'd kick it in neutral and feather the gas until it caught, drop it back in gear and keep rolling. that picture of the gas line laying, or almost laying on the intake is one possible issue. move that line and reroute anything else too close to a heat source. also might want to try some heat shielding. and if that doesn't do it electric fuel pump and a good regulator might be in order. as far as the gas tank venting, pretty sure yours should have a vent in the top of the filler tube. look in the trunk at the top of the tube. you also might want to think about doing a fuel return setup to keep the gas from deadheading at the pump. HERE'S a little reading on that.


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with this you shouldn't have a vented cap.

also, as far as semi warm starting. i've had a few that that hated to be started when just a little warm. they're easy to flood too. i usually just hold the gas peddle down about 1/3rd of the way and crank the starter and it fires up.
good luck, you'll get it. my kids have their share of "dad's car died" stories. :lol: my daughter still misses one dart i sold over 20 years ago :(
 
Walbro Pump but I use the tanks inc fuel tank. Same tank for our darts But has the holes up top for the tank and sender unit. You’ll will have to run a reg as those pumps are for EFI and carburettor is 5-6 psi. But I think some one Here mentioned Or purchased a pump where it can be mounted from the factory location using your existing tank.before adding all this new gear I used a cheap facet inline pump in my engine bay and worked perfectly.
 
ECUs not made by Mopar, are prone to getting hot and cutting out. Soon as it cools down a little, everything is fine again. The ones made 40+ years ago are very reliable and seldom have this issue!
 
wasn't trying to jinks you :rolleyes:





sounds like it's vapor locking. my 74' used to try and do the same thing any time i was sitting in traffic too long, as soon as i take off from a light it would sputter and get ready to die. usually i'd kick it in neutral and feather the gas until it caught, drop it back in gear and keep rolling. that picture of the gas line laying, or almost laying on the intake is one possible issue. move that line and reroute anything else too close to a heat source. also might want to try some heat shielding. and if that doesn't do it electric fuel pump and a good regulator might be in order. as far as the gas tank venting, pretty sure yours should have a vent in the top of the filler tube. look in the trunk at the top of the tube. you also might want to think about doing a fuel return setup to keep the gas from deadheading at the pump. HERE'S a little reading on that.


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with this you shouldn't have a vented cap.

also, as far as semi warm starting. i've had a few that that hated to be started when just a little warm. they're easy to flood too. i usually just hold the gas peddle down about 1/3rd of the way and crank the starter and it fires up.
good luck, you'll get it. my kids have their share of "dad's car died" stories. :lol: my daughter still misses one dart i sold over 20 years ago :(

I know you weren't trying to jinx me just thought it was perfect timing haha. I dont get mad when the var dies on us, its just frustrating because it just means another issue that needs fixed. I just want to be able to drive it any time and not worry.

My fuel filler tube is vented as shown in the diagram. Really this thing fires up no problem any time I try to start it... just does fire up when it gets hot... :lol:

Yea ill look at lines and pumps and other crap that the wife thinks I dont need.

When I walked in the house after going to get it she goes "so did you buy a new scope for your gun today? Because mommy needs a spa day..."

Well she told me no scope so she lost her golden ticket to a spa day (even though I would never say she couldn't have a spa day whether I got a new scope or not):rofl:
 
ECUs not made by Mopar, are prone to getting hot and cutting out. Soon as it cools down a little, everything is fine again. The ones made 40+ years ago are very reliable and seldom have this issue!

You think its more ecu related rather than fuel? Idk when my ecu was made either. It's just orange
 
Walbro Pump but I use the tanks inc fuel tank. Same tank for our darts But has the holes up top for the tank and sender unit. You’ll will have to run a reg as those pumps are for EFI and carburettor is 5-6 psi. But I think some one Here mentioned Or purchased a pump where it can be mounted from the factory location using your existing tank.before adding all this new gear I used a cheap facet inline pump in my engine bay and worked perfectly.

Sweet ill check out that pump, I've also seen the in tank electronic fuel sending units for our cars, idk if those would work.
 
Next time it dies, pop the cap and giver a try. If it's still a no go, then it's not tank pressure causing your trouble.

If your filler neck is vented, you shouldn't have pressure in the tank. Is the vent plugged? Might as well give it a blow to see.
 
Some one posted up a pump with the sender unit recently, check the fuel section where it mounted in the factory tank.
 
Next time it dies, pop the cap and giver a try. If it's still a no go, then it's not tank pressure causing your trouble.

If your filler neck is vented, you shouldn't have pressure in the tank. Is the vent plugged? Might as well give it a blow to see.

I popped the cap off first thing when I got there and tried to start it, it was a no go. Put it back on and gave her some gas and a decent amount of cranking.
 
I popped the cap off first thing when I got there and tried to start it, it was a no go. Put it back on and gave her some gas and a decent amount of cranking.

But before you cranked and cranked without a start, right?

What I mean by no-go is that you still can't get it started. This time you popped the cap, and even though it took a lot of cranking (because bowls were likely dry) it did start..

If tank pressure is causing furl starvation, then the next time it stalls you should be able to repeat what you just did - pop cap and long crank and then she runs again..
 
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