Ok, sounds good
Deck height
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Here's the piston TDC stop tool that screws into a spark plug hole:
View attachment TDC SUM-900189 A.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900189
They carry a few different varieties for both of them:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=piston top dead stop
View attachment TDC SUM-900189 A.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900189
They carry a few different varieties for both of them:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=piston top dead stop
Oh, yeah.
You can get a double roller timing chain and gear set from NAPA for the slant 6, but you have to order each gear and the chain separately. The double row timing chain is NAPA part 9168, used from 1962 to 1975 on the slant six. The sprockets are part S338 and S339.
You can get a double roller timing chain and gear set from NAPA for the slant 6, but you have to order each gear and the chain separately. The double row timing chain is NAPA part 9168, used from 1962 to 1975 on the slant six. The sprockets are part S338 and S339.
I have this one, I will thread the center of the bar to accept this tool
I decided to go with the J.P Rollermaster set cause of the multiple keyways. Ive also read that its a better all around set. No Napa in the State had all of the pieces so freight charges added up were going to bring me not far off from the cost of the J.P set.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
remember on the JP set its not uncommon to have to hone the crank gear to match your crank snout! DO NOT use heat to install it, should be a snug fit but go on with light taps from a dead blow hammer. You will need a mic (not dial calipers) and measure the snout, give that spec to the machine shop and they will hone the gear, that said mine was dead on but i have seen them have to be cut off...
That's good. as long as you use a double roller or better. :thumleft:
Not that stock piece of junk.... :finga:
Thanks for the heads up on this, I have read about the tight fit, Im hoping to have the same luck you had with yours.
Part # CS 5300 Double roller.
I know enough now about the stock chains that I definitely would not just install one and expect much.
I plan to CC my head tomm, maybe a couple just to get the process down. This is the already re-built head that I am guessing I am going to install the oversized valves in ect. I know it has already been milled some.
I have not disassembled it at all as of yet, I know now at least that the valves are sealing. ( holding water as seen in the pict. ) Would you recommend cleaning every detail of carbon out of the combustion chamber before starting the process.
I dont know how critical it is, there is VERY little. The engine was only driven maybe 18 or 20 miles.
Yes. clean off all of the carbon deposits. I use a 3" or 4" wire wheel on a drill. It will clean up the carbon deposits and any gasket material off of the surface. Also clean off the spark plug if you are going with used ones to check the heads (or use a spare new one).
You don't want the carbon to affect your readings. Bare clean metal is best here.
Ok Im on it tomm. Thanks
Cleaned up my combustion chambers this A.M, didnt take much, I found that a couple of different wire wheels got into areas that another could not.
I found it easiest to lay the plexiglass down, put head on top and drill my holes thru this way.
At this point I have reached a stumbling block in that there is not enough control with the syringe I have, it either wants to come out on its own in dribbles or it wants to come out much too fast so I cannot control where the liquid ends up.
I am waiting for bed bath and beyond to open and hoping they have the mentioned funnels. Maybe they will help the situation, maybe a syringe with a needle tip is what I should have purchased, I got one with a pretty good sized opening.
I also need to change the liquid of choice cause too many bubbles. Not sure what it is, my wife had it on the stove to heat and make the house smell nice, it was blue so I grabbed it
I found it easiest to lay the plexiglass down, put head on top and drill my holes thru this way.
At this point I have reached a stumbling block in that there is not enough control with the syringe I have, it either wants to come out on its own in dribbles or it wants to come out much too fast so I cannot control where the liquid ends up.
I am waiting for bed bath and beyond to open and hoping they have the mentioned funnels. Maybe they will help the situation, maybe a syringe with a needle tip is what I should have purchased, I got one with a pretty good sized opening.
I also need to change the liquid of choice cause too many bubbles. Not sure what it is, my wife had it on the stove to heat and make the house smell nice, it was blue so I grabbed it
it looks good.
The little funnels help. sometimes the water may tend to back up while you are trying to pour it in, then may spill. It may help to chamfer the hole on the back side to allow more clearance for the water to flow as the roof of the combustion chamber tends to restrict the flow. You have to be careful and pour slowly. Also try tipping at different angles to see if that helps the water to flow.
The small funnels should be hanging on the wall at Bed, Bath, & Beyond near the kitchen supplies. Cutting the tip shorter may also help or not for you. Pick up a couple packages, as they are only $1.50 each package.
Your looking good! Keep up the progress.
The little funnels help. sometimes the water may tend to back up while you are trying to pour it in, then may spill. It may help to chamfer the hole on the back side to allow more clearance for the water to flow as the roof of the combustion chamber tends to restrict the flow. You have to be careful and pour slowly. Also try tipping at different angles to see if that helps the water to flow.
The small funnels should be hanging on the wall at Bed, Bath, & Beyond near the kitchen supplies. Cutting the tip shorter may also help or not for you. Pick up a couple packages, as they are only $1.50 each package.
Your looking good! Keep up the progress.
Success, Bed Bath and Beyond had them for a whopping 1.49 so I cant complain, I know now as well that the shiz I was using was not complimentary to the syringe.
I changed out to pure water and a few drops of ink cartridge blue and the syringe acts as smooth as silk, no hang-ups and I can let a drop at a time if I choose.
Yes when the chamber starts to get full I will have to go very slow, if I fill the funnel and there is a huge air pocket below than the funnel will not empty.
I am confident that this chamber CCs at 54.
There must be a margin for error, I am not sure what that is but this is still not an exact science, there is a very marginal amount of grease which is going to overflow into the chamber ( very very slight if you are carefull but nonetheless still there) there are also no two syringes that are going to read identical never mind getting in between a halfway point like I did with this one upon emptying. ( between 44 and 45 still left in the cylinder but I rounded down cause thats where I felt more comfortable.
I am going to go do the other 5 now. I may do another head as well but that would mean sealing up some valves with grease or Vaseline cause they are disassembled. I will have to see my motivation level after the next 5 cylinders.
When the machinest did the head he complained about all the material he had to remove just to get it flat. He made it seem as if he took a bunch off and I was a pain in the butt to bring him such a head.
Dosent look like he removed all that much.
I changed out to pure water and a few drops of ink cartridge blue and the syringe acts as smooth as silk, no hang-ups and I can let a drop at a time if I choose.
Yes when the chamber starts to get full I will have to go very slow, if I fill the funnel and there is a huge air pocket below than the funnel will not empty.
I am confident that this chamber CCs at 54.
There must be a margin for error, I am not sure what that is but this is still not an exact science, there is a very marginal amount of grease which is going to overflow into the chamber ( very very slight if you are carefull but nonetheless still there) there are also no two syringes that are going to read identical never mind getting in between a halfway point like I did with this one upon emptying. ( between 44 and 45 still left in the cylinder but I rounded down cause thats where I felt more comfortable.
I am going to go do the other 5 now. I may do another head as well but that would mean sealing up some valves with grease or Vaseline cause they are disassembled. I will have to see my motivation level after the next 5 cylinders.
When the machinest did the head he complained about all the material he had to remove just to get it flat. He made it seem as if he took a bunch off and I was a pain in the butt to bring him such a head.
Dosent look like he removed all that much.
Readings are as follows, did them all twice cause it looked like the head surface is un-even front to back, do not know if this is typical or if I should be looking at one of my other heads.
Cyl #1 54
Cyl #2 57
Cyl # 3 57/58ish
Cyl # 4 58
Cyl # 5 58/59ish
Cyl # 6 58/59ish
I think I am going to check another head if I can get some valves to seal without a huge ordeal.
Cyl #1 54
Cyl #2 57
Cyl # 3 57/58ish
Cyl # 4 58
Cyl # 5 58/59ish
Cyl # 6 58/59ish
I think I am going to check another head if I can get some valves to seal without a huge ordeal.
I did another head, this is the head from # 2 truck ( parts truck ) and was the one with the burned out valve ( hole in it )
I thought I had disassembled it but I was wrong, I removed the one bad valve, cleaned up the seat ( looked pretty good already ) and cleaned the backside of a spare valve. Put some grease on it and put it in place hoping for a seal.
Readings are as follows.
Cyl #1 59
Cyl #2 60
Cyl # 3 60
Cyl # 4 60
Cyl # 5 60
Cyl # 6 60
More consistent numbers but does it really matter if I am going to have machine work done anyway?
What would be the deciding factor of which head to use.
I may do another head but it is in pieces so .....
I thought I had disassembled it but I was wrong, I removed the one bad valve, cleaned up the seat ( looked pretty good already ) and cleaned the backside of a spare valve. Put some grease on it and put it in place hoping for a seal.
Readings are as follows.
Cyl #1 59
Cyl #2 60
Cyl # 3 60
Cyl # 4 60
Cyl # 5 60
Cyl # 6 60
More consistent numbers but does it really matter if I am going to have machine work done anyway?
What would be the deciding factor of which head to use.
I may do another head but it is in pieces so .....
I would suspect that this one is not "flat". the head to block surface is at a slight angle.
I would take the average of these readings for this head, which adds up to 57 cc
You may want to take both heads to your head guy, along with your cc data. Have him evaluate which one is best for you to use.
He may be able to clean up the first one with milling a bit off of the head to get it flat. This will just make the chambers slightly smaller, depending on how much he needs to take off to get it "true" again. The other head may need a slight clean up, but not as much.
He also may want to look at the condition of the valve guides to see which one is best to use.
If you are thinking of using a cam above .500" lift, then let your head guy know so he can make sure that there is enough travel in the valves to accomodate this and not get into coil bind/valve bottom out. Make sure that you have some "wiggle room", ie. if you are going to run .500" lift, make sure it has a minimum of .550" or .600" travel in the valves, depending on how much lift your cam will have.
If you are careful with filling and don't spill much, and measure correctly, you should be within +/- 1 cc. That should not affect the compression results much. (we're shooting for less than 1% error). As long as your within 1 cc, I wouldn't worry about it.
Did you help him un-twist his panties??? :fucyc: :binky:
This guy gets his panties in a bunch/twisted up because you bring him some work.... :-({|=:banghead:
It doesn't matter if you are taking off .001" or .100". Setting the head up for milling is most of the work. Cutting the surface is not that big of a deal. He can only take so much off on each cut, but I would think that if you care about your quality of work, you wouldn't complain if it will take one or two more "passes" to make it flat. Adjusting the cut a little deeper is easy compared to setting it up flat to be milled... :disgust:
What a cry baby.... :crybaby: :sad2:
I am guessing ( and only a guess ) that when the head was machined the last time it was not set-up properly in the machine that removed the material. I am guessing this is just another sign of sloppy work.
I have about made up my mind to keep this head as is on the back burner as a usable spare/stock driver. I am going to assume this head and its issues are minor and possibly typical and should have no affect on a daily driver type vehicle?
If anyone knows any different please inform.
I may be wrong when talking machine ( ing ) talk but these two heads are not far from each other...in other words prob. no great advantage to either of them as far as having any kind of gain to save a few bucks cause alot of material has already been removed and paying to have material removed is where I am nearing at this point.
I feel better about using this head I think cause I already paid X dollars to have the other one done and technically it is done ( maybe not done precisely ) and it will be a good spare.
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