deeper than stock oil pan

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BabyBee1

BabyBee1

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good morning all, wanted to see if anyone has knowledge of a oil pan for a 360 in a 72 Dart base model that would fit and add couple extra quarts of oil, if so please let me know the part number, thanks,
 
Back in the day people used to make / modify them. Cut out the bottom and add a new bottom section cut off most anything that will fit. Braze, gas weld. Bolt it to something flat, even and old block to control warp. Go easy on the heat. Figure how to extend the pickup

In 75 when we swapped what had been my 440 into my friends nearly new 74 Dodge short box 4x4, we cut the pan off, turned it around, and turned it into a rear sump with the help of a junk pan. We thought it would be a good idea to order a factory pan "for the baffles," so 45 bucks later and a 2 month wait, the legit pan came--and it HAD NO BAFFLES.
 
I have the mil-30936 in my Dart, 7 qt pan. You will need to get the corresponding pick up. Make sure you verify where the pick up lands in the pan bottom.
 
I’m running the Kevco m302? Whichever is the 360 one. Fits very nicely in the car. Doesn’t hang low at all. One complaint I have and they may have made the change in it, but the oil drain is locate OUTSIDE the gated sump area. So when you change the oil, about a quart sits in the sump and SLOWLY, and I mean SLOWLY drains out. If you don’t know this, you slap the plug in and have old oil still in it. I just put a drain inside the sump area.
 
The arrow point to the drain.

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That’s what I did, no biggie, but it is such a simple fix. I sent an email like 8-9 years ago.
 
67Dart273 said:
Back in the day people used to make / modify them. Cut out the bottom and add a new bottom section cut off most anything that will fit. Braze, gas weld. Bolt it to something flat, even and old block to control warp. Go easy on the heat. Figure how to extend the pickup

In 75 when we swapped what had been my 440 into my friends nearly new 74 Dodge short box 4x4, we cut the pan off, turned it around, and turned it into a rear sump with the help of a junk pan. We thought it would be a good idea to order a factory pan "for the baffles," so 45 bucks later and a 2 month wait, the legit pan came--and it HAD NO BAFFLES.
Click to expand...
That rat there ^^^^^
 
furrystump said:
I’m running the Kevco m302? Whichever is the 360 one. Fits very nicely in the car. Doesn’t hang low at all. One complaint I have and they may have made the change in it, but the oil drain is locate OUTSIDE the gated sump area. So when you change the oil, about a quart sits in the sump and SLOWLY, and I mean SLOWLY drains out. If you don’t know this, you slap the plug in and have old oil still in it. I just put a drain inside the sump area.
Click to expand...

I have that one as well and noticed that potential issue before I installed it. What I did was use a 1/4" flat round punch and carefully pushed down the bottom of the pan under that baffle to open up a small gap and allow the oil to drain past it. I also installed a fitting with a secondary drain plug so that removing the plug during an oil change doesn't wear out/strip the threads in the pan itself. Location of the drain plug isn't great either being all the way at the front, once I pull the drain plug I jack up the rear of the car so the pan slopes forward and drains ALL of the oil out. I let it sit that way for a while and go do something else for 10-20 minutes lol. Sounds like a pain but it's not that bad and I only change the oil in my Duster maybe twice a year at most.

Another option would be to use a vacuum pump and suck out the remainder of the old oil through the plug located on the side of the pan closer to the center (not sure why they put that there in the first place...?)
 
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Milodon 30940; pick-up required. 8 quarts plus filter

MY comments;
>VerySolid pan/no leaks/rails not twisted/oil drains easily, and fast. Minor notching of the 1972 K was required. Hangs about an inch below the K; I highly recommend a modest skidplate; cuz if you bang it into a curb on the parking lot, the doggone thing is so robust, your kidneys will hurt.
> I run the pan with 6 qts plus filter, on the street, I also installed their tray, with the windows bent open a lil. and I run a reusable gasket with torque-limiters
>The dipstick needs to be prefit and oriented so it doesn't take a detour inside the tray and get whacked by the crank; ask me how I know. I drilled a hole in the tray.
I recalibrated the dipstick. I installed an HV pump
>Center-link clears with 73-up steering on a 72-down K with standard A-body biscuit mounts.
>TTIs on Eddie heads are tight but no rattle.
>By the ET reduction in the Eighth, I estimate it's worth about a huneretandfitty horsepower. Yes I'm kidding.
 
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